The ever so infamous well water thread...

Tihsho

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I know there will be a few things, parameter wise, that will need to be listed but I just want to get a general idea. I use to keep reef tanks before going to college and had great success. Since graduation I've gained more time and I'd like to start up again, but as the hobby has changed I wanted to see if there is a better/new approach for well water usage. Why? I'm trying to not do what I use to and haul 30 gallons worth of 5 gallon jugs back and fourth. At one point, towards the end of my old tanks, I had tapped a line for a RO/DI line on my main water line. RO/DI is something I'm considering as a last resort, as I don't like having a 50 gallon trash can just chilling, but you've gotta do what you've gotta do.

Ok, now to the point. I know TDS make a difference when it comes to well water as well as organic readings. From what my water has been for the past few years organics (ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite) are zero. Ph has always been a problem as it is usually fairly acidic, around the 5.0 area. With that in mind, I at least, feel the water is ok. Just needs some buffering which the salt and a little chemical buffering can do. But TDS is what I need to get tested. Any other concerns? The house I'm in is fairly new, so I don't know of many (if any) copper connections on the water. I'll test for that as well, but I can't seem to think of anything else.

With all of those things in mind, what do ya'll think? Yay? Nay?

Thanks

T
 

Reef lvr

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You should really reconsider the ro/di, will save you in the long run.. My well is 200' and my tds is 380-400!! I used to haul water back and forth, ro/di will pay for itself very quick!!
 
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Tihsho

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See my problem with RO/DI is you go all out or not at all... I could be wrong with that mind set, but there have been plenty of times I've had something crap out and need to do a big water change. With RO/DI I'll need like a 30 Gal/Day Unit to do that. I'm guessing RO/DI units haven't really changed much over the years, but in the long run I guess I'll have to bite the bullet again to do it right.

With bottled water I've never had to worry about TDS effects, what problems will they cause in the long run?
 

VegasRick

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Very few people have been sucessful for any length of time that didn't use RO DI water. I wouldn't even consider trying it. Additionally there is the co2 issue most have with well water that ends up quickly depleting your DI resins.

With unfiltered water there can be any number of issues and without an analysis of the water you are just guessing. Heavy metals, nitrites, phosphates, and any number of toxins that initially are at safe levels but can build up to toxic levels when replacing evaporation.
 

Giancarlo

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I run well water as well, and had the same mind set, but decided to go with an ro/di. Couple things i considered when thinking about this was, it was already going through a good filtration system, which had a uv sterilizer for parasites and whatnot which was great, but in some cases things are added, water softeners, potassium, whatever it may be, im no water expert, but in the end i decided to get an ro/di unit. I bought a tds meter last week, found my water was at 175 anyway so luckily i did. I mean your gonna spend 200 bucks or so on the unit, but in the end with this hobby, that cost is not much considering how often you will use it and its significance, go with an ro/di and you wont have to think about the issue again.
 
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Tihsho

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Sounds more and more like what I figured I'd be doing... Wish I didn't get rid of my old unit so I could just grab the membranes and cartridges all over... Guess that will be one of the things I'll price out tonight.
 

AZDesertRat

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Untitled Document
$120 for a full size reef quality system. All you need to add is a handheld TDS meter for $25 and you are set with the best in the business.
 

Reef lvr

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See my problem with RO/DI is you go all out or not at all... I could be wrong with that mind set, but there have been plenty of times I've had something crap out and need to do a big water change. With RO/DI I'll need like a 30 Gal/Day Unit to do that. I'm guessing RO/DI units haven't really changed much over the years, but in the long run I guess I'll have to bite the bullet again to do it right.

With bottled water I've never had to worry about TDS effects, what problems will they cause in the long run?
Dont be so sure your getting pure water in bottles! I have tested many kinds, poland spring was the best.. I got a tds reading of 58 with deer park h20.
 

VegasRick

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SpectaPure is one of the best in the business, with a outstanding reputation.
 
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Tihsho

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Mainly cause I was looking on putting an order together from another company and consolidating shipping, thoughts on AquaFX?
 

AZDesertRat

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Many of their systems are mediocre at best and usually overpriced for what you get.
Other better suggestions would of course be Spectrapure, www.buckeyefieldsupply.com , www.purelyh2o.com , www.melevsreef.com and www.h2osplash.com .

Spectrapure would be my number one due to the fact they treat and test their RO membranes, mix all their DI resins in house based on thousands of hours of testing, use absolute rated filters instead of lower quality nominal rated filters and the fact they have been around in the RO/DI business and reef hobby for 25 years and are not going anywhere. Pick up and old copy of FAMA magazine from the 80s and 90s and you will find their ads even back then.
 
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Tihsho

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Sounds good enough for me. Guess I'll be going with them. Now to find the main line to tap...

Before jumping to that part, any accessories you guys would recommend? I hear two sides when it comes to inline TDS meters. As TDS needs to be a factor of tap, DI, and RO it seems useless, but then again might be a good quick reference? I have a trash can that I use to use as a rain barrel that I can attach a float switch to so I've got that knocked out.
 

AZDesertRat

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Inline TDS meters have limitations, for one the yare not as accurate since they are not truly temperature compensated, the ysense air temp and not water temp which are rarely the same. This can lead to an error of up to 2% for every degree C they differ. They are also dedicated to just two points andcannot be used portable sicne they require flow past the probes to work.
Handheld TDS meters such as the HM Digital TDS-3 or TDS-4TM are auto temperature compensated and are +/-2% accurate. They also have a built in digital thermometer so serve a dual purpose. Hanhelds are also very versatile and can be used anywhere, tap water, RO only RO/DI, bottled water, LFS water, your top off reservoir, the vending machine at the grocery etc.

If you plan to automate with a float switch or float valves you will need an autoshutoff valve and 1 psi check valve, both are available on their website and can be installed at their factory if you buy it all together, usually for additional charge other than the parts.
 

Just grow it: Have you ever added CO2 to your reef tank?

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