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I did it have it under water and fixed this after your post. This didn't have any affect.
There is a dramatic change when the lid is on or off. I am using the u-pipes however one cracked at the seam when I put it on the standpipe I use this one on the 2nd but don't see why that would have an affect. When I put the lid on the water level in the rear box drops at least 2 inches.
Another note adjusting the gate valve has no affect and doesn't change anything all the way from wide open to closed.
I have the old model synergies on both of my tanks. They were pricey but I really like them. Hey rick I want a teeshirt !
@cracker We will be RAP in Orlando next weekend. I will have some shirts there if you are attending!
I have 3 drains reduced down to 1 inch with a gate valve on the primary. When the lid is off the rear box says fairly full and I can adjust it quiet to a full siphon. When I put the lid on the water level in the rear box drops and nothing I do will adjust it quiet...
That doesn't make sense. If the emergency drain is open and has air able to enter the rear box, then the lid cannot create a vacuum, unless all 3 pipes have water in them. The lid should have no effect on the flow or level inside the rear box. Something else is going on. Do you have pictures of how it is plumbed inside the rear box and to the sump with water in it.
I'll be there! Recon mission for my new 300 gallon build. Unfortunately wanted to be moved in and ready to buy at this time, but building delays....
Hard to tell exactly what your plumbing setup is, but if you go to the basics of the BeanAnimal system, your pipes should never actually run horizontal if you can at all avoid it, and 90s should be avoided as well. These cause flow issues. In your pic above it appears you have plenty of room for using 45s to slope the drains, so that is #1 on my suggestion list.
#2 would be moving the gate valve all the way to the bottom of the drain run. This might not seem like it matters but it does. As close to the operational water surface as you can get it (i.e. you would only have maybe a 2" pipe section after the valve, and 1" of that would be under water)
#3 your OC and Siphon line should be no more than 1" underwater. I can't recall on the emergency drain but I think it's recommended to have that underwater as well.
@mixer911 if you submerge all 3 drains 1/2" to 1" under the sump surface, you could theoretically create a vacuum. Can't say I've ever considered this type of situation before (air-tight external box)
If you're talking about scotchbrite green, no...don't use it on anything plastic.Anyone know what the best way to clean the surface of the overflow once there's algae buildup? Is it safe to use the green pads for glass or do I use the white pads made for acrylic?
If you're talking about scotchbrite green, no...don't use it on anything plastic.
Here is my overflow video. Turn up the volume and you may hear the fans on the lights, but the overflow is silent. You can hear the tv in the background. It's about 33 feet away, to give you an idea of the sound levels in the room vs the overflow.
On the left is my primary siphon. Note that it's FULLY submerged.
In the middle is the emergency drain, which is well above the other two, but below the top of the box.
On the right is the secondary drain. Notice that it is NOT fully submerged. Water level is at the low point of the elbow (inner radius).
The water level in the box is above the bottom of the bulkheads (and is determined by the secondary drain.
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5932effe9d20b/20170603_131705.mp4