The Tenecor® Pico DIY Drops March 2nd, 2024

EasternShoreman

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I LOVE the media basket idea. For the return hole size, I would go with 0.510". As for the return pump, I have had great luck running the Sicce Micra Compact (90GPH) in other nanos, and that pump will be PLENTY for this little guy.

Any Idea when the order link will be live?
 
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I LOVE the media basket idea. For the return hole size, I would go with 0.510". As for the return pump, I have had great luck running the Sicce Micra Compact (90GPH) in other nanos, and that pump will be PLENTY for this little guy.
That is our go to pump. Sicce is all we use.
 

Aaron75

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I LOVE the media basket idea. For the return hole size, I would go with 0.510". As for the return pump, I have had great luck running the Sicce Micra Compact (90GPH) in other nanos, and that pump will be PLENTY for this little guy.

Any Idea when the order link will be live?
What fits that return hole?
 

Jim Gomoll

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What fits that return hole?
Originally .510 suggestion was for a 1/2" duckbill nozzle fitting or pipe.
Now larger for a 1/2" VCA Generator or Fluval Flex Nozzle (threads .815)

TA - "(This DIY will be an AIO Pico measuring 12x12x7.)"
Anyone up for forgoing media caddy for taller height ie: 9-10"?
1707488615744.png
1707488785916.png
 

Troylee

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The edges and all the pieces will be within a couple millimeters. For solvent weld, no prep necessary. For silicone, lightly scuff the bond edge with a kitchen cleaning pad (scotch Brite) or 800 or higher sandpaper to scuff it up a bit. Then use aquarium grade silicone. Weldon 4 is a good choice for newbies. Sets slower is thicker and more forgiving. Any leak spots, patch with silicone. Others here may have better methods. It's a group activity. I learn just as much as everyone else
Silicone is poor advice and doesn’t stick at all to acrylic! It will burst at the seams! Stick with Weldon solvent or use 16 the thicker glue!
 

dansyr

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This is awesome! I didn't do so well on the last one so I'm excited there's a redemption shot. Hoping AIO brace will help those of us with less than 100% perfect seams?
 
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This is awesome! I didn't do so well on the last one so I'm excited there's a redemption shot. Hoping AIO brace will help those of us with less than 100% perfect seams?
Give it another try. Weldon 4. Silicone on a smaller size like this will work too but not recommended on anything larger. But, try the solvent again.
 
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Let's talk about a couple of open issues. Return hole size. 1/2 inch diameter? @Jim Gomoll suggested maybe going a little taller. 9 inches? If we do this then silicone assembly is no longer an option. Finally, the lid option. We have been kicking around the idea of offering aftermarket lids for other brands. Not the mesh style. Solid one piece, vented or unvented. With no charge feed cups. Like these >>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/collections/lids-aqueon

They are heavy duty polycarbonate. Nice and thick. Our earlier design was too thin. We started out with the thin because of some comments about lighting quality but no one ever showed actual PAR data and after selling several hundred of the thicker ones, we have had zero complaints regarding this. Anyhow, the Aqueon lids are obviously for rimmed tanks. For the rimless design we would modify them slightly to include a "moisture moat" and undercut so the lid will not slip off the tank. Our challenge us been sizing. We want to keep it simple and focus on the most popular brands. Pricing will be a fraction of what is currently offered. Just don't want to go down a rabbit hole on this one. As for this little project, here are the questions: 1) vented or unvented? 2) full cover or only the swim area? 3) we can also do a small feed cup, 2 inch diameter. Yes or no on that one?
 

Minifoot77

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Let's talk about a couple of open issues. Return hole size. 1/2 inch diameter? @Jim Gomoll suggested maybe going a little taller. 9 inches? If we do this then silicone assembly is no longer an option. Finally, the lid option. We have been kicking around the idea of offering aftermarket lids for other brands. Not the mesh style. Solid one piece, vented or unvented. With no charge feed cups. Like these >>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/collections/lids-aqueon

They are heavy duty polycarbonate. Nice and thick. Our earlier design was too thin. We started out with the thin because of some comments about lighting quality but no one ever showed actual PAR data and after selling several hundred of the thicker ones, we have had zero complaints regarding this. Anyhow, the Aqueon lids are obviously for rimmed tanks. For the rimless design we would modify them slightly to include a "moisture moat" and undercut so the lid will not slip off the tank. Our challenge us been sizing. We want to keep it simple and focus on the most popular brands. Pricing will be a fraction of what is currently offered. Just don't want to go down a rabbit hole on this one. As for this little project, here are the questions: 1) vented or unvented? 2) full cover or only the swim area? 3) we can also do a small feed cup, 2 inch diameter. Yes or no on that one?
Full coverage and 9" high I want in on one... I've been wanting to build an acrylic tank for so long its not funny.
 

dansyr

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Give it another try. Weldon 4. Silicone on a smaller size like this will work too but not recommended on anything larger. But, try the solvent again.
Definitely weldon, would never trust silicone for acrylic. I used weldon for the last one, but my issue was that if I didn't get 100% of the joint area (i.e. bubbles, or slightly off square), the mechanical strength of the joint was too little over time, and seams just gave out after a couple weeks of water.

Super stoked to have another try, I've played more with acrylic construction since then and can feel the skills coming back. Thanks for making another one of these hobby projects happen again!
 

dansyr

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Let's talk about a couple of open issues. Return hole size. 1/2 inch diameter? @Jim Gomoll suggested maybe going a little taller. 9 inches? If we do this then silicone assembly is no longer an option. Finally, the lid option. We have been kicking around the idea of offering aftermarket lids for other brands. Not the mesh style. Solid one piece, vented or unvented. With no charge feed cups. Like these >>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/collections/lids-aqueon

They are heavy duty polycarbonate. Nice and thick. Our earlier design was too thin. We started out with the thin because of some comments about lighting quality but no one ever showed actual PAR data and after selling several hundred of the thicker ones, we have had zero complaints regarding this. Anyhow, the Aqueon lids are obviously for rimmed tanks. For the rimless design we would modify them slightly to include a "moisture moat" and undercut so the lid will not slip off the tank. Our challenge us been sizing. We want to keep it simple and focus on the most popular brands. Pricing will be a fraction of what is currently offered. Just don't want to go down a rabbit hole on this one. As for this little project, here are the questions: 1) vented or unvented? 2) full cover or only the swim area? 3) we can also do a small feed cup, 2 inch diameter. Yes or no on that one?
9 inches would be great. The pico frag project you guys did (6" i think?) was great but a challenge with the return positioning and rimless and flow while I had it going. AIO will ease some limitations (no return / siphon breaks to worry about), but 9" would allow a 8" water depth ± 0.5" wave slosh still with tolerance.
 

Jim Gomoll

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9 inches would be great. The pico frag project you guys did (6" i think?) was great but a challenge with the return positioning and rimless and flow while I had it going. AIO will ease some limitations (no return / siphon breaks to worry about), but 9" would allow a 8" water depth ± 0.5" wave slosh still with tolerance.
I'm with dansyr on 9" height.

Full top vented lid with light mount cut out like you did on the Frag tank.
1707503525684.png


Return hole I originally was going to use the same Duckbill used in Imagitarium tanks that have a .516 hole. Now leaning to larger 7/8 .875 hole for a VCA or Fluval nozzle. If you go with a smaller hole for the masses I'll just Dremel out the hole.
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1707503813466.png
 
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Jim Gomoll

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Where do you get the elbow and that fitting that kit threads into?
Duckbill-Circulation-Household-Harmless/dp/B0CJ89F739/ref=pd_ybh_a_sccl_18/134-5001553-7550002?pd_rd_w=VJgwv&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=KCAE6ZE6Y5DDY148K2NC&pd_rd_wg=mm57F&pd_rd_r=26ce16b7-1e24-40cb-badf-62a21af4f9b1&pd_rd_i=B0CNS7VQ3K&th=1

Fluval-Flex-EVOXII-Spec-Nozzle/dp/B073212Y72/ref=pd_ybh_a_sccl_13/134-5001553-7550002?pd_rd_w=LbA1r&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=C7KENJ7GK1RYEKW102JG&pd_rd_wg=bZbcV&pd_rd_r=cabcd2ad-28a2-47ca-9a17-5bd944443587&pd_rd_i=B073212Y72&psc=1
 

thrillreefer

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9 inch height sounds perfect for the work desktop tank I’ve always wanted!

Is it crazy to laser etch a logo or other design into acrylic before assembling? I’m thinking superficial, less than 1 mm deep etching. I could instead do this just on the AIO divider if it would compromise strength substantially.

Agree, full lid with light mount cutout and feeding cup sounds ideal.
 

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