Triton results leave some mystery...

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Vern McCalla
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Randy,

Got my results the other day and decided to share them on my build thread, I think they are pretty normal but I am thrown off by the Cu number. I have used TM pro salt from day one and dont dose anything to the display copper related, its an SPS tank and have been having success with almost everything that goes in the tank. I do have some random RTN at times with small frags and am wondering if this could be the culprit. Please shed some light for me on these numbers and what you find concerning. Thanks
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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The copper and tin are a concern.

I would make a significant effort to find where it might be coming from, but that may not succeed. Look for tap water, any metal parts intentionally or accidentally in the water, condensation dripping or metal flaking from any wires or metal hood parts, etc.

You can look to decrease them using a variety of metal binders, such as Seachem Cuprisorb, Boyd Polyfilter. Two Little Fishies Metasorb, or Triton Detox.
 
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The copper and tin are a concern.

I would make a significant effort to find where it might be coming from, but that may not succeed. Look for tap water, any metal parts intentionally or accidentally in the water, condensation dripping or metal flaking from any wires or metal hood parts, etc.

You can look to decrease them using a variety of metal binders, such as Seachem Cuprisorb, Boyd Polyfilter. Two Little Fishies Metasorb, or Triton Detox.
ok theres nothing obvious that jumps out to me as far as metal parts in the water but I am making a slow change to get away from the original salt I was using. Ill double check that there are no screws or anything that have dropped in the sump but I dont think thats it.
 
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FWIW, the numbers themselves do not look horrible, so it could be just living with it may be OK. I'm not sure whether it contributes to complex issues like RTN or not.
well I added some Cuprisorb so hopefully that will take care of the copper issue. Is that really the only thing that jumps out at you from the results?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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That and the tin (Sn). Vanadium is high, but it is also a needed nutrient and I've not heard of toxicity at that level (but i do not know a lot about it).

You might boost the potssium (I would).

The Li (lithium) is not, IMO, important at that level.

The aluminum takes about 10x that level (50 ppb) to be a problem in tests I ran.

The low bromide and strontium are no concern (IMO).

Some of the low trace nutrient elements might be usefully added (molybdenum, zinc, manganese, for example).

You can see my discussion of Triton test results for my tank here:

My Triton Testing Results: By Randy Holmes-Farley - REEFEDITION
 
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That and the tin (Sn). Vanadium is high, but it is also a needed nutrient and I've not heard of toxicity at that level (but i do not know a lot about it).

You might boost the potssium (I would).

The Li (lithium) is not, IMO, important at that level.

The aluminum takes about 10x that level (50 ppb) to be a problem in tests I ran.

The low bromide and strontium are no concern (IMO).

Some of the low trace nutrient elements might be usefully added (molybdenum, zinc, manganese, for example).

You can see my discussion of Triton test results for my tank here:

My Triton Testing Results: By Randy Holmes-Farley - REEFEDITION
Welp thats why I asked you! you always go above and beyond thanks for the detail!
 

JPK

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Hi
Are you running the triton 4 part?
I am, and I sent in my first triton water sample in August this year. I received the results which indicated that I had around 14 ppm tin in my system, no copper though. I looked for evidence of rust, screws, etc. what I found was the faucet (cold water faucet for my washing machine) that was feeding my Ro/Do system had a very small amount of water leaking out of the valve. I unhooked the Ro/Do and unscrewed the faucet. I found that it was heavily corroding from the inside. I replaced the faucet and did four 15% water changes per triton's instructions.
I ran a follow-up test one month later and the results indicated that I still had about 4 ppm tin. I was still using the old triton 4 part, where each jug had been mixed with 9 L of the suspect water from the corroded valve.
I discarded the 4 part, cleaned the jugs and added new 4 part using new Ro/do water. I did another four 15% water changes over a week. I waited a month and sent in Another triton test.
I received the results today and had a tin reading of zero.
Just a thought of somewhere to look.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Hi
Are you running the triton 4 part?
I am, and I sent in my first triton water sample in August this year. I received the results which indicated that I had around 14 ppm tin in my system, no copper though. I looked for evidence of rust, screws, etc. what I found was the faucet (cold water faucet for my washing machine) that was feeding my Ro/Do system had a very small amount of water leaking out of the valve. I unhooked the Ro/Do and unscrewed the faucet. I found that it was heavily corroding from the inside. I replaced the faucet and did four 15% water changes per triton's instructions.
I ran a follow-up test one month later and the results indicated that I still had about 4 ppm tin. I was still using the old triton 4 part, where each jug had been mixed with 9 L of the suspect water from the corroded valve.
I discarded the 4 part, cleaned the jugs and added new 4 part using new Ro/do water. I did another four 15% water changes over a week. I waited a month and sent in Another triton test.
I received the results today and had a tin reading of zero.
Just a thought of somewhere to look.

The corroded valve was upstream of the RO/DI, right? Were you careful to ensure the TDS was always 0 ppm? If you let the TDS rise before DI replacement, that could have been the source, but it should not be with a properly functioning RO/DI. :)
 

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The corroded valve was upstream of the RO/DI, right? Were you careful to ensure the TDS was always 0 ppm? If you let the TDS rise before DI replacement, that could have been the source, but it should not be with a properly functioning RO/DI. :)

Hi Randy,
In my case, the suspect valve was upstream of the ro/di (BRS 6 stage). The TDS was always zero on the supplied TDS meter coming out of the 2nd resin canister.
 

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FWIW one month out of my 10 Triton tests I detected 1.77 Cu and the next test it was gone. First test showed Tin (speculated to come from fresh PVC plumbing).

Copper will definitely lead to STN/RTN on Acros. For some reason the last 2 tests on my coral farm system have showed 2.3 and 4.0 Tin also. Not sure where it is coming from. I do have some fresh plumbing in an added fish cubical setup.
 

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