Tunze ATO sensor and Light

[srobertb]

So my Tunze 3155 will not function correctly due to a 400w Wills Grow light over my refugium (raised and adjacent to my sump). I need to uncover my sump due to heat issues.

I have thoughts and questions.

After some digging I found a post on here from Tunze indicating that grow lights with strong red LED’s will cause the Tunze to malfunction. Sounds about right as after covering the return pump section, my issue resolved. The light forces it stuck in the “off” position not “on” so while it stinks, it isn’t a flood risk. I could make a cover for my return section but it has a ton of pipes (3 pumps) and sensors and things and so a lid is going to be complex.

I have to ask:

Does this issue affect all optical sensors? I’m thinking about going back to my DIY double Apex optical sensor setup for the ATO but not if I’ll have the same problem.

Im going to tip the refugium light away from the sump to inhibit algae now that I have to remove the lid but I’m not sure this will resolve the Tunze issue. Has anyone made or seen something to house optical sensors in for issues like this? Alternatively I’ll need to use a plastic sheet to block the light but that’s going to look awful and need to be removed so I can see in the refugium.

Pics in my build thread if necessary.

 

[exnisstech]

Sorry not an answer but your issue is just one reason I love good old fashioned float switches. Seems like I rarely read of those failing vs the optical sensors. I have a float switch for my ato that I installed 5 years ago completely covered in woman's knee-high stocking to keep out snails that hasn't been cleaned since the instalation and it's still working perfectly.
EDIT : has to be a reason tunze used a float switch as a failsafe

 

[srobertb]

Sorry not an answer but your issue is just one reason I love good old fashioned float switches. Seems like I rarely read of those failing vs the optical sensors. I have a float switch for my ato that I installed 5 years ago completely covered in woman's knee-high stocking to keep out snails that hasn't been cleaned since the instalation and it's still working perfectly.
EDIT : has to be a reason tunze used a float switch as a failsafe

I was thinking about figuring out how to wire up a pair of float switches to an apex break-out box this morning. That may be the best answer if the light is going to muck with any optical sensor.

Using an LLS with a float valve backup is another option (and I have all that on hand). So far the LLS sensors are not affected by the light.

As a counterpoint, I have optical switches that are 7 years old that work just fine and have been reliable (unless being blasted with 400w of red light I guess). I stopped using float switches since they’re not snail proof but in my current setup that’s not an issue.

I really want the Tunze to work. Maybe I should give up. Every purchase for this build has been a “luxury” but I’m going to feel especially dumb if I have to ditch the $200 Osmolator I bought for stuff I have laying around.

 

[doubleshot00]

My Neptune gro is like 6” from my tunze sensors. Never noticed an issue. Maybe put up a piece of black pexi glass to stop the bleed over.

 

[bushdoc]

I have my Tunze ATO and other ATOs on-a Apex oscillator program, switching on and off, so they get reset several times a day.You can use simple timer switch if you don‘t have Apex
BTW, mechanical float switches also fail, they can get stuck in both on or off position.

 

[exnisstech]

I have my Tunze ATO and other ATOs on-a Apex oscillator program, switching on and off, so they get reset several times a day.You can use simple timer switch if you don‘t have Apex
BTW, mechanical float switches also fail, they can get stuck in both on or off position.

I agree. Anything will fail at some point, its just a matter of when. There are so many more failures of optical switches vs float switches so I play the odds. But I'm old simple guy and even manually dose because I know the only thing that can fail is me forgetting. Being able to do almost everything manually is a luxury I have being retired.

 

[Dean]

So my Tunze 3155 will not function correctly due to a 400w Wills Grow light over my refugium (raised and adjacent to my sump). I need to uncover my sump due to heat issues.

I have thoughts and questions.

After some digging I found a post on here from Tunze indicating that grow lights with strong red LED’s will cause the Tunze to malfunction. Sounds about right as after covering the return pump section, my issue resolved. The light forces it stuck in the “off” position not “on” so while it stinks, it isn’t a flood risk. I could make a cover for my return section but it has a ton of pipes (3 pumps) and sensors and things and so a lid is going to be complex.

I have to ask:

Does this issue affect all optical sensors? I’m thinking about going back to my DIY double Apex optical sensor setup for the ATO but not if I’ll have the same problem.

Im going to tip the refugium light away from the sump to inhibit algae now that I have to remove the lid but I’m not sure this will resolve the Tunze issue. Has anyone made or seen something to house optical sensors in for issues like this? Alternatively I’ll need to use a plastic sheet to block the light but that’s going to look awful and need to be removed so I can see in the refugium.

Pics in my build thread if necessary.

Not an answer but i hate my tunze. ive had it for 4 months and it kicks on a doesn’t shut off since day one. i move it around and adjusted things in my sump a million times and it keeps overfilling. my corals are suffering due to this. I’m trying to find something more reliable now. the sensor is garbage, mine much have been broken originally.

 

[bushdoc]

Not an answer but i hate my tunze. ive had it for 4 months and it kicks on a doesn’t shut off since day one. i move it around and adjusted things in my sump a million times and it keeps overfilling. my corals are suffering due to this. I’m trying to find something more reliable now. the sensor is garbage, mine much have been broken originally.

I know, when you make up your mind, then it is difficult to change it.
Red Sea is releasing new ATO- you can pre order it. It is less expensive than Tunze 3155.
Otherwise; Do you have Tunse 3155 or Tunze Nano Osmolator?
In both systems you need to adjust jumpers in control unit and match it for volume of your tank.
So, for example if you have tank smaller then 26 gal and jumpers are set for larger tank, you may have issue described.
I had opposite issue, i forgot to change jumpers and my tank was under filled.
I had many other brands of ATOs and so far Tunze served me better than others. I am expecting Red Sea to be my next choice, perhaps.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

In my experience with optical sensors, all kinds in an industrial setting, light can be an issue. Simple solution would be to place the sensor in a pvc tube to shield it. Just make sure it’s either elevated a smidge off the bottom of the sump and open at both ends, or drill a hole or two in the side top and bottom, or cut the bottom of the tube at an angle so that it can stand in its own, or something similar so that the liquid level inside the tube is the same as outside the tube.

 

[srobertb]

Not an answer but i hate my tunze. ive had it for 4 months and it kicks on a doesn’t shut off since day one. i move it around and adjusted things in my sump a million times and it keeps overfilling. my corals are suffering due to this. I’m trying to find something more reliable now. the sensor is garbage, mine much have been broken originally.

I replaced mine with an LLS sensor a week ago. I’m still dialing some settings in but it’s been 100% reliable keeping my sump return chamber between 5.8 and 5.9 inches and alerting me
If it goes above or below. I wired a float switch into a Neptune Apex FMM module as a backup too (you don’t need a breakout box which is nice).

So disappointed in the Tunze. Really feel so stupid wasting money on it + buying the Tunze power relay switch for my setup. It should be made a lot clearer, especially since 99% of seller’s don’t take returns, that it isn’t suitable near high powered grow lights. I hope people find this thread and can make an informed decision.

On one hand Neptune support did admit it will probably have the same issue with their optical sensors. On the other hand a hobby that relies so heavily on intense lighting having sensors that are screwed up by high intensity lights is ridiculous. Lots of people have refugiums in their sumps. A decent grow light could short circuit it at any time.

 

[srobertb]

I know, when you make up your mind, then it is difficult to change it.
Red Sea is releasing new ATO- you can pre order it. It is less expensive than Tunze 3155.
Otherwise; Do you have Tunse 3155 or Tunze Nano Osmolator?
In both systems you need to adjust jumpers in control unit and match it for volume of your tank.
So, for example if you have tank smaller then 26 gal and jumpers are set for larger tank, you may have issue described.
I had opposite issue, i forgot to change jumpers and my tank was under filled.
I had many other brands of ATOs and so far Tunze served me better than others. I am expecting Red Sea to be my next choice, perhaps.

I have a 3155. The issue is directly caused by my refugium light blinding the sensor. It’s a common issue that Tunze (and all ATO makers who use optical sensors) are fully aware of. They should be making it clearer- so should BRS and other sellers.

 

[srobertb]

In my experience with optical sensors, all kinds in an industrial setting, light can be an issue. Simple solution would be to place the sensor in a pvc tube to shield it. Just make sure it’s either elevated a smidge off the bottom of the sump and open at both ends, or drill a hole or two in the side top and bottom, or cut the bottom of the tube at an angle so that it can stand in its own, or something similar so that the liquid level inside the tube is the same as outside the tube.

The Tunze makes it difficult to isolate the optical sensor so you’d need to house the float and the optical sensor (not a bad idea but still). I have some DIY thoughts but honesty it sounds like a pain in the butt. I’m all for DIY but I’ve spent less than $100 on some Apex sensors and a PMUP and I have one less cord plugged in and overall better control on my ATO’s status and how much it runs.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

The Tunze makes it difficult to isolate the optical sensor so you’d need to house the float and the optical sensor (not a bad idea but still). I have some DIY thoughts but honesty it sounds like a pain in the butt. I’m all for DIY but I’ve spent less than $100 on some Apex sensors and a PMUP and I have one less cord plugged in and overall better control on my ATO’s status and how much it runs.

For what it’s worth, I would think that if there’s enough light to keep a refraction type sensor from working properly, there’s probably enough light to grow nuisance algae on whatever type of sensor you use.

 

[srobertb]

It’s worth a fair a lot to mention.

Right now I have my sump (100g) and refugium (50g) plumbed while I wait for the display. That space gets up to about 85 degrees during the day where they reside. I’m hopeful when I plumb in my display (210g) in (we keep the house around 70) that it may drag the temps back down.

I wanted to keep my sump covered to reduce algae but right now I need a fan on it to keep temps down. I’m going to try tipping the refugium light back away from the sump and may try and make a deflector.

It has been setup for 2 months, 1 month uncovered due to heat so I’m optimistic it won’t be too bad algae wise.