Unlevel concrete

CorbetJackson50

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I have already picked out the spot for the tank (250 gallon (60x36x25) in wall) and I’ve already built the stand. Upon removing the carpet where the stand is going to go I uncovered some cracks in the basement floor and over the 5 foot span probably a half inch unlevel. Should I try to shim this out and if so how would you go about doing it or should I try a thin coat of floor leveling material. If I go with the floor leveling I can’t go too thick because the tank is already gonna be 6 feet tall to the top and 10” to the header above.
 

BanjoBandito

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italquam

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I have already picked out the spot for the tank (250 gallon (60x36x25) in wall) and I’ve already built the stand. Upon removing the carpet where the stand is going to go I uncovered some cracks in the basement floor and over the 5 foot span probably a half inch unlevel. Should I try to shim this out and if so how would you go about doing it or should I try a thin coat of floor leveling material. If I go with the floor leveling I can’t go too thick because the tank is already gonna be 6 feet tall to the top and 10” to the header above.
I would just shim the tank , you will be fine . Obviously if any concrete is loose it needs repair but just cracks happen on concrete all the time .
 

jsker

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With a large tank, I tend to agree with @BanjoBandito. Make a simple form and level the floor and fill the crack.

With a smaller system one can use shims.

If you decided to use shims, I would suggest using a plastic shim. A plastic shim will not deteriorate over time due to moisture. :)
 

italquam

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I have used regular wood shims under tanks for years , never an issue . Obviously if you can get it level concrete great but you would have to tear up the original concrete and lay new concrete to repair it correctly . Just a matter of how much of a project you want.
 

BanjoBandito

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With a large tank, I tend to agree with @BanjoBandito. Make a simple form and level the floor and fill the crack.

With a smaller system one can use shims.

If you decided to use shims, I would suggest using a plastic shim. A plastic shim will not deteriorate over time due to moisture. :)
Oh man, I gotta hang out with you if 250 is a "smaller system". lol. I have a flooring business mixed into the furniture stores I own, I've seen so many issues from just not doing it right the first time, but it's not my tank and not my place so I'm just here for moral support.
 

mdb_talon

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With a large tank, I tend to agree with @BanjoBandito. Make a simple form and level the floor and fill the crack.

With a smaller system one can use shims.

If you decided to use shims, I would suggest using a plastic shim. A plastic shim will not deteriorate over time due to moisture. :)

Haha i was the opposite. A durable levelling patch for the much weight is hard to get when less than 1/2" which is why i would go the route i know wont fail with shims.
 

italquam

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Haha i was the opposite. A durable levelling patch for the much weight is hard to get when less than 1/2" which is why i would go the route i know wont fail with shims.
Exactly my thoughts because that leveling patch will crack over time . Only way to fix the concrete is to redo it properly , otherwise use the shims or even a pressure treated base like doctor gori said
 

BanjoBandito

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Haha i was the opposite. A durable levelling patch for the much weight is hard to get when less than 1/2" which is why i would go the route i know wont fail with shims.
self leveling concrete can tolerate a PSI of 4000-8000 lbs. (depends on thickness) But it needs to cure for a month. I don't think he's got that kinda time!
 

WVNed

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Sheet steel shims under where load is transferred to floor. Stack them to get the correct thickness in each spot. Once the weight is on them they will never move.
 
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CorbetJackson50

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Thanks for all the replies. So if I go with the composite shims how about spacing? Obviously under the corners but what more every 12” sound sufficient? Couple pics of stand for reference.
F5A66327-2F4F-4D9B-B897-BA3795310534.jpeg
E1AF1BDF-3A94-4E02-92D7-E902F1972CAF.jpeg
86CD1ED5-0576-4859-82C6-A60E885A6FFB.jpeg
 

WVNed

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Just under the corners. Commercial grade vinyl floor tile makes good shims and you can cut it with a knife.
 

Paul B

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I would not put that stand right on the floor anyway. That wood (which looks like pine) will rot under the tank in a few years. I would shim the entire thing to keep it off the floor. But don't use wood shims.

Are those screws stainless or deck screws?

I myself used redwood because it doesn't warp and is good in moisture. I also used hot dipped galvanized bolts. But thats just me and I build to last as long as the pyramids. My last tank stand was galvanized steel and it rusted pretty bad after 40 years.

 
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CorbetJackson50

CorbetJackson50

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I would not put that stand right on the floor anyway. That wood (which looks like pine) will rot under the tank in a few years. I would shim the entire thing to keep it off the floor. But don't use wood shims.

Are those screws stainless or deck screws?

I myself used redwood because it doesn't warp and is good in moisture. I also used hot dipped galvanized bolts. But thats just me and I build to last as long as the pyramids. My last tank stand was galvanized steel and it rusted pretty bad after 40 years.


It is pine. I’ve built plenty of stands out of pine before without any indication of rotting. Never put one on concrete though if that’s the issue?
 

Paul B

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Thats not the issue. The issue is if you put that stand on any floor, any moisture that gets under those long wooden bottom pieces, that water will stay there and rot. If you are only planning for a few years, then it's no problem. I used vinyl tiles toshim mine because even though I used moisture proofed lumber, I didn't want wood touching the floor.
I also didn't wand hardly any wood on wood contact for the same reason which is the reason I built the legs out of 4 x 4's instead of sandwiched wood. But like I said. I build to last forever. :)

Good Luck
 

Coinzmans Reef

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The loads on a stand are obviously downward but also side to side and front to back
the legs look OK and the top rails should be fine however the base needs better support from leg to leg. AND DO NOT USE SHEETROCK SCREWS ! they have little sheer strength. Galvanized Bolts or deck screws and lots of them.

Ask your self would you park a small car on it?
 
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