UV flow rate recommendation for Dino’s?

JackerVenom

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Hey everyone need help with UV flow rate because I know it’s vital for actually being affective. Currently I have a 9 gallon tank and bought and 8watt UV sterilizer. (Aqua brand)
At what flow rate should my pump be?
I don’t wanna go to fast but don’t understand the math for it
 

A sea K

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higher flow targets algae and other similar (I believe Dino's are in this category), slower flow targets more complex organisms such as Ich.
I've been looking heavily into UV however doe not have a complete grasp on everything just yet. Seems you have plenty of power for a 9 gallon system so I would definitely aim for the highest flow rate that wont disrupt your display.
 

dwest

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About 20-30 gph is all you need. You could go higher (100 gph ish) because your UV is large compared to your tank volume. You will get the best benefit running the UV directly to and from your display tank.
 

A sea K

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according to the aquaultraviolet site that unit has a maximum sterilizing capability (effective against algae, bacteria, and protozoa) at 214GPH, as you INCREASE the flow through the unit it reduces its effectiveness against higher order organisms. So according to the manual a flow rate between 428-642 gph is ideal for a "reef" tank application which is pretty much a tornado in a 9 gal system.
 

saltyhog

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You can throw out the manual that comes with your UV if you're using it for dinos. I have not run across any UV manufacturer that's up to date on using UV for dinos. Agree with 1-3 times tank volume. Contact time is the key with UV/dinos.
 

Gablami

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higher flow targets algae and other similar (I believe Dino's are in this category), slower flow targets more complex organisms such as Ich.
I've been looking heavily into UV however doe not have a complete grasp on everything just yet. Seems you have plenty of power for a 9 gallon system so I would definitely aim for the highest flow rate that wont disrupt your display.
This. Dinos do not need the same contact time as parasites. So the most effective use would be a high flow rate. Given the ratio of watts per gallon (very high in your case since you have a nano), you won’t come close to maxing out your flow. In fact, I would watch your temperature of your tank very carefully. You may need to put the UV unit on a timer.
 
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JackerVenom

JackerVenom

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according to the aquaultraviolet site that unit has a maximum sterilizing capability (effective against algae, bacteria, and protozoa) at 214GPH, as you INCREASE the flow through the unit it reduces its effectiveness against higher order organisms. So according to the manual a flow rate between 428-642 gph is ideal for a "reef" tank application which is pretty much a tornado in a 9 gal system.
That’s recommended for a 70 gallon system though
 

saltyhog

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This. Dinos do not need the same contact time as parasites. So the most effective use would be a high flow rate. Given the ratio of watts per gallon (very high in your case since you have a nano), you won’t come close to maxing out your flow. In fact, I would watch your temperature of your tank very carefully. You may need to put the UV unit on a timer.

That was not my experience. Lower flow was much more effective in my battle with ostreopsis dinos. The people that have dealt with dinos the most say contact time is very important with dinos. @taricha
 

Gablami

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That was not my experience. Lower flow was much more effective in my battle with ostreopsis dinos. The people that have dealt with dinos the most say contact time is very important with dinos. @taricha
I agree that contact time is important for all killing. But I still stand by my statement that the kill dose for dinoflagellates is lower than for a parasite like ich. That said, the OP had a massively overpowered UV relative to tank size. So in his case, relatively “high flow” is still sufficient for kill dose, and increasing turnover through the UV can only help.
 

taricha

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The people that have dealt with dinos the most say contact time is very important with dinos.
I agree that contact time is important for all killing. But I still stand by my statement that the kill dose for dinoflagellates is lower than for a parasite like ich.

People have run across problems with treating dinos according to the UV recommendations for algae or bacterial blooms, but have had better results at the slower rates recommended for parasites.
Probably because the bacteria in blooms are ~1 micron and "algae" in "greenwater" blooms are typically single cell cyanobacteria that are < 5 microns. Our problem dinos are ~50 microns. So it's more similar to the size of cryptocaryon (Ich).

8 watts on 9 gallons would definitely cause temp concerns. Agree with running it on a timer.
 

Sarcazian

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I realize that this is a bit of an older thread now, but I am looking for a UV for my Fluval Evo 13.5 to reduce algae and the potential of dino's. I figured adding to an existing thread around a nano tank made more sense then starting new. Maybe I am wrong.

Also, I have no doubt that one day I will upgrade to a 40B, but likely no larger. I found another thread on here and they recommended a site with a lot of info and this 7W unit seems to meet my needs. Terminator Compact Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilizer | Category B (americanaquariumproducts.com)

I would likely have heat issues since the tank is already between 78-80 degrees F depending on room conditions and the built-on top. However, I am not super worried about that since I will run it 6hours a day in 2hour windows. I keep the sump part of the AIO open all the time to keep under 80, but since I have not purchased anything I was curious if I should go with something like that or an in-tank model that is cheaper?

I was considering plumbing the UV from my AIO pump (Sicce Syncre 0.5 - 185GPH) to the UV and then out to the tank. So, it's likely at the lowest GPH rate of the UV.

I have maybe 10-20 # of LR in the tank that was cooked 8 years ago and sat in a brute in SW after. No algae so far, but I am trying to follow the pound of prevention model..

Thank you in advance.
 

Robert Binz

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That was not my experience. Lower flow was much more effective in my battle with ostreopsis dinos. The people that have dealt with dinos the most say contact time is very important with dinos. @taricha

This is extremely helpful. The UV in my lagoon has been useless against Ostreo and you’re the first person with real experience telling me to slow down my return pump. Thank you!!
 

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I have 300 gallon tank, 60 gal sump, 120 watt Lifegard Pro Max 3" UV. I am thinking of just intercepting my main return. I have 2 return pumps in case one goes down.

My main pump is about 200gallon/hr calculated from me just filling up 1gal water bottle and multiplying to get gallon's/hr (1gal filled in 18 seconds)

I want to intercept return line from my main pump, up to DT. This would be 2/3 of my tank/hr. I'm trying to treat dino mainly, but wouldn't mind help with cyano that's popped up recently.

Is this too low flow? The UV is pretty good size, so I think preference would be like 1-3 tank volume's per hour?
 

Bitcoin Reefer

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I guess this opens up another question of is my flow too low overall lol? I have 2 MP40's that say on Mobius app they're doing like 3000-5000/hr, not sure how accurate that is. Then I have two return pumps doing 200GPH + 70 GPH. 300g + 60g refugium.

I guess maybe my thinking for flow has been wrong all along? I mean the 120watt UV has 3inch water inlet and outlet lol. I have a 3/4 and 1/2 inch return lines lol. How big do I need to plumb into this dang monster UV lol? Can I get away with a 1" or 1 1/4" flexible tubing adapted to the 3" inlet and outlets? I just looked and looks like some larger pumps aren't too expensive so I should probably just upgrade now and get better flow to my tank. I figure it'll help down the line so I don't need to buy more MP40s so soon.
 
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Bitcoin Reefer

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I measured the inlet pipes and they're 2.5" inner diameter on the female inlet and outlet's. So I guess the 3" Lifegard is has 2.5" inlet and outlet, maybe 3" is the size of the body of the unit.
 

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This. Dinos do not need the same contact time as parasites. So the most effective use would be a high flow rate. Given the ratio of watts per gallon (very high in your case since you have a nano), you won’t come close to maxing out your flow. In fact, I would watch your temperature of your tank very carefully. You may need to put the UV unit on a timer.
I have never seen more people contradict each other than on this subject of flow rate vs dinos. it seems as if every other algae, bacteria, parasite is all figured out EXCEPT dinos. half the people say fast flow, like 700gph for algae and dinos. They say fast turnover is needed for fast replicating bacteria or algae and dinos. Then the other half say dino's are armored and not like regular algae and need very slow gph like 200 or less. and im just sitting here like whichhhhh one whoooooo is right?
 

dwest

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I had success with the low flow on amphidinium. I used a 57 watt UV and could flow 200-300 gph through it. Any slower and I’d get lots of precipitation on the bulb. My tank is 180 gallons.
 

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