Which heaters are good, better, best? We test accuracy and rank them!

[Frop]

Hey guys!

Today we are bringing you another installment of BRStv Investigates and in this episode, we put some industry leading heaters to the test.

Take a look at what we found for accuracy and variance of these heaters and let us know your thoughts on the ones you use in your tank!

Great! I think HMO is my choice for my upcoming 58 gallon. I will have it running off my chiller (the chiller supplies power to the heater when temp is below set temp). It will have a second temp check with the Seneye. However the Seneye can't shut it off it can let me know. The chiller can shut it off but not let me know.

 

[jason2459]

Looks like the Inkbird INK306T might be just what I need between the Apex and my 300W Finnex Titanium Tubes. At only $27 I really should have two, one per EB8, per heater. Oddly I'm more turned off by the added clutter than by the added $27.
Are the stainless steel temp probes really OK in saltwater?

You can use shrink tubing to make a thermal well or what I have done is just coat the probe in 100% silicone. I did that to my Ranco probes as well. The thermal well will look nicer.

You may like the bayite that I linked to and used if you don't like the look of that inkbird. It is about $20 more but its cleaning looking and compact. I also like the display better. I went with the bayite due to fitting my space better.

 

[ReeferSurf]

You can also get http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5M-Long-...e-AU-/271507189012?hash=item3f3716ed14&_uhb=1

Just make sure to get the right one, mine was type: NTC 10K/3435

 

[Rick Mathew]

HOT VIDEO ....Pun Intended... To add to the conversation I use a LogTag device to monitor the temperature independent of any other devices. It is NIST traceable so can be used to calibrate the other devices...So that gives me 3 points of reference on the tank...my Apex probe...my Seneye and the LogTag...What I like about the logTag is you can download the data and get a all kinds of information...graphs...statistical reports. It also has an alarm feature...though it is not audible and will not send notification but will alert you on the display if you are out of range...Here are some pictures to illustrate

Total Cost is under $200...LogTag unit (replaceable battery model) ...The Docking Station and the probe...I download the data once a week and compare it to my Apex data to see if they track and make any adjustment if necessary. The programing features allow you to set the measurement interval, the length of time to measure, the allowable limits and others... Great tool to give one confidence in temperature measurement.

I also use one of these to monitor the temperature of my auto frozen food feeder to keep the mean kinetic temperature below 30F to keep the food as fresh as possible...hope this adds to the conversation

Rick

 

[don_chuwish]

You can use shrink tubing to make a thermal well or what I have done is just coat the probe in 100% silicone. I did that to my Ranco probes as well. The thermal well will look nicer.

You may like the bayite that I linked to and used if you don't like the look of that inkbird. It is about $20 more but its cleaning looking and compact. I also like the display better. I went with the bayite due to fitting my space better.

Heat shrink tubing looks like a nice option:
http://www.etcsupply.com/thermal-well-for-aquariums-clear-pvc-heat-shrink-tubing-p-150.html

Thanks for the tips - I'll take a closer look at the bayite.

Sorry BRS, this thread is going everywhere!

 

[jason2459]

Heat shrink tubing looks like a nice option:
http://www.etcsupply.com/thermal-well-for-aquariums-clear-pvc-heat-shrink-tubing-p-150.html

Thanks for the tips - I'll take a closer look at the bayite.

Sorry BRS, this thread is going everywhere!

It's a small piece of equipment with huge consequences. One of the most fundamental pieces of equipment most everyone needs in a standard reef tank. Glass cage, salt, water, light, heat, power and they don't all mix together well.

HOT VIDEO ....Pun Intended... To add to the conversation I use a LogTag device to monitor the temperature independent of any other devices.

...

Rick

That looks interesting. I may be able to use that for something else. As it is I have 9 temp probes in my tank.

4 Apex probes: 2 at display in weir and 2 in sump
2 Ranco in Sump
2 Bayite in Sump
1 Seneye in back overflow at display

lol. Its like that for all my probes: 3 pH, 2 Conductivity, 2 ORP, etc.

Like you said it's good to compare against each other and you'll know when its time to calibrate.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ph-probe-and-this-is-one-way-to-know-you-need-to-calibrate.285739/

 

[Frop]

It's a small piece of equipment with huge consequences. One of the most fundamental pieces of equipment most everyone needs in a standard reef tank. Glass cage, salt, water, light, heat, power and they don't all mix together well.



That looks interesting. I may be able to use that for something else. As it is I have 9 temp probes in my tank.

4 Apex probes: 2 at display in weir and 2 in sump
2 Ranco in Sump
2 Bayite in Sump
1 Seneye in back overflow at display

lol. Its like that for all my probes: 3 pH, 2 Conductivity, 2 ORP, etc.

Like you said it's good to compare against each other and you'll know when its time to calibrate.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ph-probe-and-this-is-one-way-to-know-you-need-to-calibrate.285739/

That's nuts. It reminds me when I started my job as a QC. I use to double check everything very paranoid about not getting the right number. Now I have a different approach. Is it close enough to nominal that the error won't throw it out of tolerance? If yes then don't check again.

HOT VIDEO ....Pun Intended... To add to the conversation I use a LogTag device to monitor the temperature independent of any other devices. It is NIST traceable so can be used to calibrate the other devices...So that gives me 3 points of reference on the tank...my Apex probe...my Seneye and the LogTag...What I like about the logTag is you can download the data and get a all kinds of information...graphs...statistical reports. It also has an alarm feature...though it is not audible and will not send notification but will alert you on the display if you are out of range...Here are some pictures to illustrate

Total Cost is under $200...LogTag unit (replaceable battery model) ...The Docking Station and the probe...I download the data once a week and compare it to my Apex data to see if they track and make any adjustment if necessary. The programing features allow you to set the measurement interval, the length of time to measure, the allowable limits and others... Great tool to give one confidence in temperature measurement.

I also use one of these to monitor the temperature of my auto frozen food feeder to keep the mean kinetic temperature below 30F to keep the food as fresh as possible...hope this adds to the conversation

Rick

Like this post the guy has a standard dev of .1 with a mean of 78.6. So 99% of his numbers will statistically be between 78.3 a 78.9f. If his variables all behave consistently to this initial sample then I wouldn't worry to shadow the number every day personally. I hardly check my temp now as it is and I don't have it graphed. Been running for 7 months so seems fine so far. I know it swings a few degrees in my nano. That's why I am for the middle of the tolerance.

 

[jason2459]

I have a tolerance/ hysteresis set to .2 on the bayite, ranco is a 1.0 degree swing with 82 being shutoff and Apex alert set to a swing from 76 to 82 and shutoff of 83. I don't watch 24/7 but I do get a good look at all the numbers at least twice a day.

I do a morning and evening check every day. I make sure to look at the tank, basement sump area, and quick scan of fusion. With the basement sump area being my most important.

To add, reason for all the temp probes is because the modules had the ports so I may as well use them and then each external controller needs one and then my seneye includes it too.

PM1, PM2, ASM, and Base unit all have temp ports.

 

[don_chuwish]

I think I'll get 2 x Inkbird ITC-308S. $33.49 each. I've never needed to cool the tank but at least the 308 gives me the option. My stand is already ventilated by a 120MM case fan that is always on. Gets dampish in there otherwise.
I'll have 3 temp probes in the water - which is enough for my comfort!
I'll set one of the 308s for 78, the other at 76, then have the Apex kill them both at 81 or 82.

 

[Rick Mathew]

It's a small piece of equipment with huge consequences. One of the most fundamental pieces of equipment most everyone needs in a standard reef tank. Glass cage, salt, water, light, heat, power and they don't all mix together well.



That looks interesting. I may be able to use that for something else. As it is I have 9 temp probes in my tank.

4 Apex probes: 2 at display in weir and 2 in sump
2 Ranco in Sump
2 Bayite in Sump
1 Seneye in back overflow at display

lol. Its like that for all my probes: 3 pH, 2 Conductivity, 2 ORP, etc.

Like you said it's good to compare against each other and you'll know when its time to calibrate.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ph-probe-and-this-is-one-way-to-know-you-need-to-calibrate.285739/

With all those probes do you have any room for live stock?

 

[Rick Mathew]

That's nuts. It reminds me when I started my job as a QC. I use to double check everything very paranoid about not getting the right number. Now I have a different approach. Is it close enough to nominal that the error won't throw it out of tolerance? If yes then don't check again.



Like this post the guy has a standard dev of .1 with a mean of 78.6. So 99% of his numbers will statistically be between 78.3 a 78.9f. If his variables all behave consistently to this initial sample then I wouldn't worry to shadow the number every day personally. I hardly check my temp now as it is and I don't have it graphed. Been running for 7 months so seems fine so far. I know it swings a few degrees in my nano. That's why I am for the middle of the tolerance.

I actually only shadow once a week at the end of the week...you can see when the probes are drifting up or down and you cam make any adjustments...take about 5 min...

 

[jason2459]

One other thing I'd like to add to the discussion of safety with electricity and having had heaters cause fires or lots of smoke before

I have smoke/fire detectors in every room but also extra ones where there's lots of equipment like my workbench area, above my electric panel annd especially under the tank stand and sump room.

Under tank stand

Above where all my equipment is plugged into and there's another above the sump where the equipment is at.

Paranoid? Maybe. Quick easy safety features? Yep.

https://www.google.com/search?q=aqu...x0PLSAhWI8YMKHWi-AQMQ_AUICSgD&biw=360&bih=560

 

[Rick Mathew]

One other thing I'd like to add to the discussion of safety with electricity and having had heaters cause fires or lots of smoke before

I have smoke/fire detectors in every room but also extra ones where there's lots of equipment like my workbench area, above my electric panel annd especially under the tank stand and sump room.

Under tank stand

Above where all my equipment is plugged into and there's another above the sump where the equipment is at.

Paranoid? Maybe. Quick easy safety features? Yep.

https://www.google.com/search?q=aqu...x0PLSAhWI8YMKHWi-AQMQ_AUICSgD&biw=360&bih=560

Great idea...I am going to take it and get one for my sump area ans well as my control cabinet...thanks for sharing

Rick

 

[mgoesma]

Why don't you use or talk about the ice water method of calibrating a thermometer?

1. Fill a glass with ice cubes, then top off with cold water.
2. Stir the water and let sit for 3 minutes.
3. Stir again, then insert your thermometer into the glass, making sure not to touch the sides.
4. The temperature should read 32°F (0°C). Record the difference and offset your thermometer as appropriate.

 

[mgoesma]

I would also be interested in seeing the same type of test preformed on cooling methods. I live in FL so heating really isn't an issue but coiling is. Maybe you could test different kinds of cooling methods such as a cheap fan in the sump area. Fan across the water line , thermal electric bulkhead chiller and a couple different sized external chillers.

 

[klp]

Hey guys!

Today we are bringing you another installment of BRStv Investigates and in this episode, we put some industry leading heaters to the test.

Take a look at what we found for accuracy and variance of these heaters and let us know your thoughts on the ones you use in your tank!

Your comment on having the Eheim set higher than Reefkeeper Lite. You said that keeps the contacts closed. You cover a lot of ground quickly and did not explain it is when you open and then close the contacts that arcs occur causing them to eventually stick together so not arcing is what causes the increased longevity of the heater. I put that in for clarity. I appreciate your recommendation and agree totally. Thanks for the wonderful information you generate for us in this hobby as I would not have thought of doing that with the Eheim.

You guys keep posting videos on topics I've been posting about recently. Ha! I currently run two 800 watt Finnex Titanium heaters bought from BRS too.

So, I'm going to copy paste instead of retyping and I don't have a specific thread to point to this time.




I hate heaters. They all will fail at some time in some way. I change my heaters out every two years. Any even number year is how I remember it.

Good reads
http://www.beananimal.com/articles/aquarium-heaters-what-you-need-to-know!.aspx

I would always recommend at least two methods of controlling the temp. The temp control on the heater being either the primary or backup or if it doesn't have a built in thermostat two external ones which is my preference. There are many choices out there now.

I've used the Ranco controllers for many many years. Never one issue. I also bought a Reefkeeper light many moons ago too to help be a backup to the ranco plus some other basic functions like ATO. I've since upgraded the reefkeeper many times and also switched to an Apex since then.

I also switched from the Jagers to a more compact titanium heater and much higher wattage. But does not have built in controlls which is better IMO. My options were then to use the Ranco as the primary or the Apex as the primary. Both had some draw backs. The Ranco allows full degree swings in temp before kicking on and off. The Apex has tighter resolution and controll but the tighter you get the more often the heater will kick on and off which is ok for the heater but the outlet relay will eventually wear out which is an expensive outlet. All switches will wear out and usually stuck on and why you want redundant heating controllers.

So, I got another controller. Inkbird gets some good reviews which are cheap. I decided to go with another option with a bayite dual stage prewired controller.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K...ler+bayite&dpPl=1&dpID=41yjLXWgVqL&ref=plSrch

It supports .1 degree resolution and I really liked it's compact design.

You can see the Rancos and the Bayites I have mounted here

One for each heater, each is plugged into a different power bar, and each power bar is connected to a separate dedicated GFCI/CAFCI 20amp circuit.

I would suggest multiple heaters over a single one. So, my heater itself is on or off thats it. The Bayite is the main controller. It is maintaining temps between 79.2-79.5. The bayites are plugged into the Ranco (which I trust more then any other controller). The Ranco is set to shutdown at 82 degrees. Then the Rancos plugged into the Apex Powerbars. The Apex will shut those down if the temp hits 83 degrees.

I'm pretty well set and protected against a heater/controller stuck on, a heater/controller stuck off by having multiple heaters (800 watts each), and a single breaker/fuse blowing by having two of everything and two separate dedicated circuites.

Some will advocate multiple smaller heaters in case one gets stuck on but if one gets stuck off the redundant heater needs to be able to pick up and heat everything. I'd rather have multiple redundant controllers and a heater if needed to run by itself to be able to heat everything it's supposed too. That's just my opinion and strategy to cover multiple ways a heater could fail. The GFCI to protect me from leaking voltage which has happened and the CAFCI to protect the house from burning down due to a faulty heater which has happened. Then a good surge protector to protect the controllers.


A heater could potentially last many many years. Some, a few days. YMMV

Only problem with a heater failure is they are usually deadly failures. If they are fully submerged they often start leaking and could at best shock you and at worse electrocute you. GFCI is a must. The leaking voltage could cause all sorts of issues with life in the tank.

Sometimes they just burst and at best leak nasty stuff into the water that again life in the tank won't like. And at worse the side of the tank its by cracks and drains out all the water. And at the very worse cause a fire. CAFCI is highly suggested here. GFCI won't be enough at times.

Then most common is they get stuck on which at best if you don't scale down the heater and run multiple of them or don't have redundant heat controllers is your tank runs a little hotter then normal stressing your tank inhabitants. At worse runs your tank a lot hotter then normal killing life in the tank.

And sometimes could get stuck off causing at best the tank to run a little cooler then normal or at worse a lot colder.

All will cause some kind of irritation and possible death or damage to something. All has happened and unfortunately will happen again to someone.


When dealing with equipment electrical safety should be thought of. When dealing with heaters this is multiplied as they are like shoving a toaster into your water with a thin protective layer over it that can be compromised.

My standard copy paste for electrical safety concerns and recommendation for a CAFCI and GFCI circuits.

On CAFCI, GFCI, and Surge Protection to protect your house, yourself, and your equipment.

I like redundancy and as much protection against equipment failures as possible. Things like Heaters and power strips in our hobby have created more havoc then necessary with the occasional fun dip of lights into the tank...


I would also suggest a CAFCI along with GFCI

CAFCI will help protect your house from fire
GFCI will help protect you from electrocution

And a good surge protector will help protect your equipment.

Individual one shown above. Tripplite makes some good ones. Be warned some newer surge protection devices will stop power from flowing all together once it can no longer provide surge protection. This is actually a good thing IMO for many things like computers/tv/etc but NOT a good thing, again IMO, for many other things like refrigerators, freezers, our aquariums, etc. Some will make an audible alarm when exhausted which is nice too.

Plus a whole home. None last forever and will need replaced eventually based on how many surges and intensity of surges they've been hit by. Surges can come from outside your home, not just lightening strikes, and from inside the home.

Eaton Ultra and SquareD hepd80 are a couple good whole home surge protectors.

Plus having more then one circuit with life support spread across them. I have two additional circuits then what's pictured above to my main tank on the first floor with GFCI at the receptacles so its easier to reset them if tripped. Then the two shown in the picture above go to my basement sump with the GFCI at the breaker. Along with being a CAFCI. There are also AFCI breakers but don't protect against as many arc faults as a CAFCI.

And don't get confused by combination AFCI (CAFCI). That doesn't mean it combines GFCI with it. The packaging has to specify GFCI as well to support both CAFCI and GFCI. Sometimes called dual.

Here's some visuals

And CAFCI protects against both of these where AFCI only parallel

In the US the NEC will typically require a class A GFCI protection in places like a bathroom (fishtank) which trips at 6mA. Some places like commercial applications can use class C, D, or E that trip at 20mA.

http://m.csemag.com/index.php?id=9575&tx_ttnews[tt_news]=102229&cHash=89c8746cdc4a7fd8a3cb93f1d51ba57a



So, to sum it up
I highly recommend at minimum two ways to control and more importantly stop the heater from running.
I highly recommend at least two heaters which means double the ways to control the heaters.
I highly recommend each heater on a completely separate electrical circuit
I highly recommend each circuit to be both CAFCI and GFCI and the use of a good surge protector
I recommend each circuit to be dedicated to the tank.

Can we just change the breaker to CAFCI/GFCI Dual in place of the standard breaker? Would we have to change the outlet itself also to a GFCI outlet? I will need to update as I am going to add a small fish tank in another room.

 

[jason2459]

...

Can we just change the breaker to CAFCI/GFCI Dual in place of the standard breaker? Would we have to change the outlet itself also to a GFCI outlet? I will need to update as I am going to add a small fish tank in another room.

Yes, if your breaker itself is GFCI you do not install a GFCI outlet anywhere on that circuit. That entire circuit is protected. If you have a regular breaker and install a GFCI outlet you can have downstream outletd protected by that GFCI as well. There's a sticky now I think in the DIY section on wiring GFCI outlets.

You can do a combination of things.

CAFCI breaker to a GFCI outlet (have on my main display as GFCI is more likely to trip and easier to reset upstairs)
Dual GFCI/CAFCI to regular outlet (have this on my basement sump area as I'm already in the basement)

I also suggest 20amp over 15amp.

 

[jason2459]

Here's that sticky thread on wiring a GFCI receptacle. If you're at all in doubt about doing it an electrician will do a couple outlets pretty quickly and looking at around $50-100 and well worth it.

Even better is paying them $300-500ish to install 2 dedicated CAFCI/GFCI circuits for the tank.

 

[40B Knasty]

I was hoping you did the Aqueon Pro. It has been so great from me. It was at 78.7 for 3 months solid. As soon as I put a jebao sw-4 wave maker it went to 78.6 for the past 3 weeks almost. Can a power head change the temp .1?

 

[jason2459]

If the pump is creating surface agitation that could increase evaporation which can help cool a tank.

But if you haven't adjusted your heaters at all that tells me it's the same as it was before regardless of the temp reading as there's always a +/_ in accuracy or the heaters temp calibration has slightly shifted.