Which Zoanthids Like the Bright Lights?

[mskurdah]

Hi all:

I've had a hard time keeping any zoanthids. I think it's because my LEDs are too bright. I don't want to rock the boat (everything else in the tank is happy). Does anyone have recommendations for zoanthids/palys that like the intense light? Thanks!

 

[larangcon]

You have to be careful with LED's too bright can melt them away, especially zoas. As for some paly's like my BBEB loves the bright lights. I have been running T5's with LED supplement. If I have zoas right under the LED even at 8 inch near the top, I noticed they do not open as normal and often melt on me, when I notice this I move them down to lower areas.

 

[peterthegamer]

Ur best bet is to get some caves and put the zoas in there

 

[Thereeferboss]

Get them an umbrella lol jk jk

I had the same problem when I introduced my Zoas to my new tank but I think you should gradually move your Zoas up until you see they are on a good spot, I started from the bottom up and most of them look very good.

 

[mnat]

One of the biggest misnomers in this hobby is that zoas do not like light. Zoas are generally found in shallow pools and have been measured in water where they are receiving 800-1000 PAR. Obviously like any coral, they can come form different depths and different locals that all have different parameters so err on the side of caution. Again, like all corals they need to be acclimated to the light they we give them. Even SPS can bleach under too much light if not properly acclimated and it is the same with zoas. Start them on your sand bed, and move them up slowly over time until they look their best. I think a lot of people keep them under too low light and then when they get moved to higher light they get shocked. I had great zoa growth and color under LEDs and a 250w MH bulb over a 30g cube with the zoas on a frag shelf a few inches under the water.

 

[Ai71]

They would all need acclimatising really untill you find a sweet spot for them, but as above they can carefully be adjusted to be just under the water, In the Maldives this year I noticed zoas actually higher up in the water than sps lol all along the water break walls, and when the tide went out they were completely exposed.

 

[reef. coffee & curly hair]

mnat is correct. Basically you will find many palys in shallower tidal pool locations where flow is slower and lighting is hitting high par values. Just to throw a few out there the CC rainbow rhinos are at the top of my sps dominant tank. Tank is 5ft length and 32" in Height running 3 over-driven 250w phoenix 14k and two AI sols at 88% blues and 45% whites between the 3 halide fixtures. Fixtures are 10" from water surface and rhino paly is 6" from the water surface and simply looks like its supposed to be there. Beautiful polyp. Generally lower to moderate flow for that one IME. My TDF purple orchids are mid tank(14" from water surface) and are in slightly than higher moderate flow. I have Utter Chaos in the wifes JBJ nano 24 led under lower light and slower flow.
Keep in mind there are always variances of specimens, nutrient loads and types to consider, and things that cause agitation within an aquarium so bouncing frags around to find that happy spot even though a pain may have to be done.
So to sum up the few listed: Rainbow Rhinos = Intense light-lower flow; Purple Orchids=Mod to Intense Light-Mod Flow; Dark Phoenix=Mod light-mod to high flow; Rastas=Mod light- low to mod flow; Tyree/SC orange rainbows=mod light-slow flow; Chuckys Bride=mod light-slow flow; Utter Chaos=low light-low to mod flow. These are just a few that look great and are moderately priced and I have personal success with. There are so many more exceptional specimens out there. Happy Hunting.

 

[A. grandis]

Hi all:

I've had a hard time keeping any zoanthids. I think it's because my LEDs are too bright. I don't want to rock the boat (everything else in the tank is happy). Does anyone have recommendations for zoanthids/palys that like the intense light? Thanks!

IMO/E all my zoas like intense light.

MHs are intense light.
T5 HOs are intense light.
Some LEDs could be called intense lights too.

The "proper reef intense light" is what we should look for.
I notice many times that LEDs sold for aquarium are called "bright" and "strong". Could we call that a "proper intense reef light"? Hummm...

Best light I've tried for my zoas were MHs.
Second, T5s.
I've seen too many people complaining about LEDs and going back to their old MH/T5 fixtures.
They don't talk only about zoas, but corals, even SPS. That alone shows how young LEDs are still.
I think LEDs need to wait for the real deal.
There is just a lot of trials and every week a new system or update comes up. Too much money wasted with upgrades, I think. BUT that is the way LEDs will come to their best, right? Too bad the companies are just selling their trials and also making money on them, using reefers. It needs to happen sooner or later... I just don't have the money and time to play with them for now… specially with the people complaining and going back to their T5/MHs.

I had MHs in the past and that was the best I could offer to my zoas. Seriously, they just love MHs.

The use of T5 fixture is easier and uniform. Great option for spectrum combinations. Less heat than MHs and a little less electricity.
I like the uniformity very much too. Makes the tank to look great!

I have 3 ATI fixtures today for many years and have nothing to complain about them. Zoas love T5s too!

My US$.02.

Grandis.

 

[extremecoral]

The title said "Which zoanthids like bright light" I guess that's Pink and gold paly lol. Try to move them to the shaded area and see what happens lol

 

[Peanut]

How much light they get and where they can be found in nature is not the same thing as how they will grow best in your aquarium.

I think its less about intensity and more about timing. If you subscribe to the Joshporksandwich method of lighting as I do, the amount of white light that my zoanthids get is very small. I have been running his lighting schedule that he discusses in the magazine article he wrote, for about 3 months now. The color and size of my polyps has never been better. I will never go back to a normal lighting schedule or change to anything else....unless of course Josh discovers something even better lol.

 

[A. grandis]

How much light they get and where they can be found in nature is not the same thing as how they will grow best in your aquarium.

I think its less about intensity and more about timing. If you subscribe to the Joshporksandwich method of lighting as I do, the amount of white light that my zoanthids get is very small. I have been running his lighting schedule that he discusses in the magazine article he wrote, for about 3 months now. The color and size of my polyps has never been better. I will never go back to a normal lighting schedule or change to anything else....unless of course Josh discovers something even better lol.

It's actually the balance of both (intensity/timing).
Very good observation! That's one of the principals of aquarium reef lighting.
Yes, specially when using metal halides in a zoa only tank!!!
I had my MHs for 4 hours max. a while back. The fluorescents (Actinics and "whites") were on for longer than that.
Using only T5s also, but "white" T5s can stay much longer then MHs.
Yes, polyp size and healthier colonies are some of the things we see.
It's good to remember that light alone isn't the responsible for those adjectives.
My blue T5s are on for 9 hours and the "whites" for 7 hours.
That's for a zoa tank.
I don't know about LEDs.
They are all different from each other and there are so many types of settings/customized options, so it's kinda hard to picture the idea, unless you know how they relate to the MHs or T5s in that sense.

Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

I found the article @:
http://www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com/downloads/pdf/version27.pdf

Hope that's the one… :nerd:

It says:

"8:30 am - 11:30 am (20,000K metal halides)
11:15 am - 12:30 pm (Super Actinic VHOs)
12:15 pm - 9:30 pm (Blue LEDs)."

Here we basically have 3 types of lights: metal halides, fluorescent tubes and LEDs.
Well…
In fact, there are lots of options for those timers.
The options for the types of lights used are also many...
The use of 2 of the 3 types of light used (listed above) would be more than enough for any zoa/coral system, in regards to light alone.
The use of one of them could hit the optimal environment for zoas, and IMO that's T5 HOs, talking about the fluorescent type. VHOs too.

I'm just writing this so people don't think they need all 3 types of lights to have a very successful zoa tank!!

I've seen all kinds of zoa tanks with nothing close to that type of lighting and with stunning zoas all over the tank for many years!! So… light isn't everything, really.
My systems today have only T5s and they are doing just great! I miss the shimmering of my MHs, but I'm happy I don't have to deal with the extra heat.:bigsmile:

Very nice subject and the article is simple, but nice and informative!!! Well done!
Thanks for the input!

Grandis.

 

[Peanut]

I found the article @:
http://www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com/downloads/pdf/version27.pdf

Hope that's the one… :nerd:

It says:

"8:30 am - 11:30 am (20,000K metal halides)
11:15 am - 12:30 pm (Super Actinic VHOs)
12:15 pm - 9:30 pm (Blue LEDs)."

Here we basically have 3 types of lights: metal halides, fluorescent tubes and LEDs.
Well…
In fact, there are lots of options for those timers.
The options for the types of lights used are also many...
The use of 2 of the 3 types of light used (listed above) would be more than enough for any zoa/coral system, in regards to light alone.
The use of one of them could hit the optimal environment for zoas, and IMO that's T5 HOs, talking about the fluorescent type. VHOs too.

I'm just writing this so people don't think they need all 3 types of lights to have a very successful zoa tank!!

I've seen all kinds of zoa tanks with nothing close to that type of lighting and with stunning zoas all over the tank for many years!! So… light isn't everything, really.
My systems today have only T5s and they are doing just great! I miss the shimmering of my MHs, but I'm happy I don't have to deal with the extra heat.:bigsmile:

Very nice subject and the article is simple, but nice and informative!!! Well done!
Thanks for the input!

Grandis.

yesir, that's the one!

I personally run 2x250w 20k Radiums for 3 hours in the am, and nothing but actinics for the remainder of the day...unless I need to take a pic lol

 

[A. grandis]

One of the biggest misnomers in this hobby is that zoas do not like light. Zoas are generally found in shallow pools and have been measured in water where they are receiving 800-1000 PAR. Obviously like any coral, they can come form different depths and different locals that all have different parameters so err on the side of caution. Again, like all corals they need to be acclimated to the light they we give them. Even SPS can bleach under too much light if not properly acclimated and it is the same with zoas. Start them on your sand bed, and move them up slowly over time until they look their best. I think a lot of people keep them under too low light and then when they get moved to higher light they get shocked. I had great zoa growth and color under LEDs and a 250w MH bulb over a 30g cube with the zoas on a frag shelf a few inches under the water.

1smile1

I agree with the fact that many zoas do come from shallow tide pools and there is just tons of light on them. Even the ones coming from "deeper waters" are still able to get lots of artificial light in our systems. There is no comparison between the sun and any of the artificial lights we offer to our zoas. It's all on the acclimation period and method.
We need to keep in mind that not every day they get that much light on the reef and there are other facts that plays with the natural light received.
The great thing about zoas is the fact that they do adapt to the artificial light fairly quickly and safe, when the adaptation period is done correctly.
We do need to know how to acclimate the zoas to new light. That's basics.

I've had 2 X 250W metal halides and 4 tubes in a 55gal. with wonderful zoas for long time.
Was that too much light? Well, probably unnecessary for a 55gal. tank. But they were doing great!!

So the necessity of light by the zoas also needs to be considered. There is no need to waste electricity and go crazy with many hours a day. They will consume the energy they need and be very healthy for many years without any issues enjoying light during a relatively short photoperiod.
Many think that 12 hours a day is the way to go. Or many think that strong light to the eyes is what zoas/corals need. They just need a quality balanced spectrum and intensity to be able to have their metabolism within their natural abilities, after a well performed adaptation to the light we choose.

Remember that blue light isn't the way to go either. They need "white" light!!

Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

yesir, that's the one!

I personally run 2x250w 20k Radiums for 3 hours in the am, and nothing but actinics for the remainder of the day...unless I need to take a pic lol

Yep. And I bet the zoas are really nice…
I would give some more 20,000Ks though, if you don't have any other " white" tube on with the actinics.
Perhaps one more hour for the MHs.
That will help some of the pigments.

Now people will ask you for the pictures… LOL!!

Grandis.

 

[revhtree]

Very useful thread!

 

[Peanut]

Yep. And I bet the zoas are really nice…
I would give some more 20,000Ks though, if you don't have any other " white" tube on with the actinics.
Perhaps one more hour for the MHs.
That will help some of the pigments.

Now people will ask you for the pictures… LOL!!

Grandis.

Here's my thread - I'm not addicted I can stop whenever I want

 

[naldopr]

Very useful thread!

Indeed my friend!!

 

[mskurdah]

Thanks for all the information everyone!

 

[buddythelion]

Wow, didn't expect to see all of this useful information in here!

As for light loving zoanthids, my Candy Apple Reds would only develop a yellow ring in higher light. Those love light.