Yellow wrasse large bruise? Help please!

[Mini Coop]

Here are "Chiquita's" tank mates.

 

[Flippers4pups]

I'm going to have to get me another Mandarin soon. Haven't had one in years. I have a ton of pods now. Years and years ago I even trained one to eat mysis through spot feeding it. Had it in a 56 gallon and didn't have a good pod population back then.

 

[Humblefish]

Here is a video link if it helps . . . breathing heavy?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0kjEyfqa_P4N2FQdm05ZVR1WmM

He does look to be in distress. As someone mentioned above, he might have injured himself which led to the infection.

Humble, what's your advice on supplementing pods for the Mandy and scooter using these meds? Really should supplement some pods during QT for these guys.

I would feed them Nutramar Ova & Roe 5-6x daily. Any live food will die as soon as it hits the medicated water.

 

[Flippers4pups]

He does look to be in distress. As someone mentioned above, he might have injured himself which led to the infection.



I would feed them Nutramar Ova & Roe 5-6x daily. Any live food will die as soon as it hits the medicated water.

That's what I thought. Thanks.

 

[Mini Coop]

He does look to be in distress. As someone mentioned above, he might have injured himself which led to the infection.



I would feed them Nutramar Ova & Roe 5-6x daily. Any live food will die as soon as it hits the medicated water.

What is Roe 5? And how do I do that when I work? Lol. I can feed 2 times before I leave, when I get up and before I leave, then when I get home, and every 1.5 hours?

 

[Humblefish]

Nutramar ova: http://www.nutramar.com/ova.html

ROE: http://reefnutrition.com/roe.php

Just feed small portions, but do it often to maintain their metabolisms. You can use an airline hose to siphon out any uneaten food.

 

[Humblefish]

The Scooter might eat frozen brine, mysis, etc. and might even teach the mandarin to do the same.

 

[melypr1985]

Looks like you got it covered. I agree with the choice of meds.

 

[Mini Coop]

Ok - update: Unfortunately, I got the antibiotics today, but as I feared, she was too far gone. I found her dead today when I got home. I am pretty sure she was gone this morning, but I didn't want to dig through the sand in case she was just resting and stress her out even more. So . . . now the question is: do I need to treat the other 2 in case they caught something? She looked like she was bleeding from the inside - like a bruise that had spread, but it didn't appear to be open.
The other 2 in QT are a green mandarin and a scooter dragonette. They both appear to be doing well and eating (especially the scooter).
Should I treat with one of the 3 antibiotics that @Humblefish suggested to be safe, or just keep an eye on them?

Help from where to go from here would be great.

Also - any other advice from @evolved or @4FordFamily or anyone else would be great - I had 2 wrasses in QT - the McCosker didn't make it 24 hours and then this yellow coris got this injury or bacterial infection or injury that led to bacterial infection and I lost them both. Is there a secret to QT Wrasses? I was more worried about my mandarin and my scooter - the finicky eaters, not the wrasses!
I am hoping to have a wrasse in my DT as soon as I can because I have a few brown flat worms and would like them to be kept under control.

THANKS SO MUCH!

 

[Humblefish]

@Mini Coop I wouldn't treat the other fish unless they show signs of infection.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Sorry for your loss.

 

[Mini Coop]

Sorry for your loss.

Thanks. I cried. I was really hoping to save her. I take every fish personally. Others may think it stupid, or have been in the hobby a longtime, but I think I will take any loss hard. I will get the other 2 into their second round of Prazi Friday. @Humblefish because of the nature of mandarin and scooter, a couple of days after second round of Prazi, do you think I should go ahead and move them to DT, or keep them in QT the full 4-6 weeks?

 

[Humblefish]

Thanks. I cried. I was really hoping to save her. I take every fish personally. Others may think it stupid, or have been in the hobby a longtime, but I think I will take any loss hard. I will get the other 2 into their second round of Prazi Friday. @Humblefish because of the nature of mandarin and scooter, a couple of days after second round of Prazi, do you think I should go ahead and move them to DT, or keep them in QT the full 4-6 weeks?

I'm sorry for your loss. I once told myself the day I stop getting choked up about losing a fish is the day I need to exit this hobby.

I would wait at least 4 weeks before transferring the mandy & scooter over, especially after what happened to the wrasse.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Honestly, I take it hard too when I have a loss. There's been a few in my hobby career since 93, each makes me be more on point about my husbandry. I've learned with each loss something new, if even I did everything right and couldn't save them, I still analyze what I'm doing.

One thing I learned long ago is be prepared in advance for the what ifs, as much as I can. In the case of adding new fish, I try to have meds ready in advance before buying them or know where I can get them asap if needed.

Loss, as bad as it is, makes you learn. Hang in there.

 

[4FordFamily]

Ok - update: Unfortunately, I got the antibiotics today, but as I feared, she was too far gone. I found her dead today when I got home. I am pretty sure she was gone this morning, but I didn't want to dig through the sand in case she was just resting and stress her out even more. So . . . now the question is: do I need to treat the other 2 in case they caught something? She looked like she was bleeding from the inside - like a bruise that had spread, but it didn't appear to be open.
The other 2 in QT are a green mandarin and a scooter dragonette. They both appear to be doing well and eating (especially the scooter).
Should I treat with one of the 3 antibiotics that @Humblefish suggested to be safe, or just keep an eye on them?

Help from where to go from here would be great.

Also - any other advice from @evolved or @4FordFamily or anyone else would be great - I had 2 wrasses in QT - the McCosker didn't make it 24 hours and then this yellow coris got this injury or bacterial infection or injury that led to bacterial infection and I lost them both. Is there a secret to QT Wrasses? I was more worried about my mandarin and my scooter - the finicky eaters, not the wrasses!
I am hoping to have a wrasse in my DT as soon as I can because I have a few brown flat worms and would like them to be kept under control.

THANKS SO MUCH!

Hello,

First of all I'm very sorry for your loss.

Second of all I find that very small halichoeres (such as your yellow, melanarus, vroliks, grey headed, lime green, red-lined, etc) are not very hardy at all. They also need time without meds in qt to adjust before very very slowly increasing medications such as copper. For halichoeres genus wrasse I would seek out medium sized fish in the 3-4" range and if you buy from an LFS, prioritize those that have been there the longest if you have the choice. Also, I've noticed when they come in noticeably thin (no robust, round belly like the established wrasse get) that they're much more likely to perish no matter how healthy or active they may seem. A fat wrasse is obviously a more subtle attribute because of their long thin shape.

Stolen from google:

This is a very fat melanarus

This is a thin juvenile melanarus which in my opinion is far more likely to perish

This isn't to say that all halichoeres juveniles perish but I find them much more difficult which is a stark contrast to the hardy adults they become.

I also find that flasher seem to be similar with regard to hardiness at small sizes but even medium sized flashers are touchy for the first couple weeks. After that they thrive and are quite hardy. For flashers my advice is to bug a very healthy, active, perhaps even flashing fish to start.