Zebra Eel

speedjester

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Well this afternoon I picked up 2 Zebra eels. My question is how do you quarantine them? I have them in a 20 gallon long full of rocks. I intend to place them in my 360gallon Dt. But want to make sure there clean before placement. Thought opinions?
 

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Zebra moray eels have a thick slime coat that helps protect from disease. It’s not full proof but the chance of ich is greatly reduced. For what it’s worth, I never qt’d mine. It got acclimated and then right in.
 
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speedjester

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Zebra moray eels have a thick slime coat that helps protect from disease. It’s not full proof but the chance of ich is greatly reduced. For what it’s worth, I never qt’d mine. It got acclimated and then right in.
I’ve read that. But have also read they can get Velvet. And I really don’t want to deal with a Outbreak in my 360.
 

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Eels really only need an observational qt, I suggest 4 weeks, some say 45 days is safer, but eels are very safe. They are very resistant to any protozoan diseases, because of their extra thick slime coating, ick and velvet can really only attack only the sickly of eels. I have even transferred eels directly from tanks with ick and velvet into other tanks without issue. You could prophylactically treat with general cure if you choose, but if they are eating and you are good at observation that is not necessary. The most common issue would be internal parasites and if they are eating, then there should be no issue, general cure would be treatment Flukes are also possible which would also present in not eating, and can also be accompanied by head shaking and swimming towards the surface, as well as possible cloudy eyes, prazi pro is the preferred treatment. The head shake is also a natural movement to pull water through their gills. I strongly suggest not to expose any other meds or chemicals other than general cure and prazi pro.

If you have difficulty feeding, sometimes they may need some live ghost shrimp to get them started.
 
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speedjester

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Eels really only need an observational qt, I suggest 4 weeks, some say 45 days is safer, but eels are very safe. They are very resistant to any protozoan diseases, because of their extra thick slime coating, ick and velvet can really only attack only the sickly of eels. I have even transferred eels directly from tanks with ick and velvet into other tanks without issue. You could prophylactically treat with general cure if you choose, but if they are eating and you are good at observation that is not necessary. The most common issue would be internal parasites and if they are eating, then there should be no issue, general cure would be treatment Flukes are also possible which would also present in not eating, and can also be accompanied by head shaking and swimming towards the surface, as well as possible cloudy eyes, prazi pro is the preferred treatment. The head shake is also a natural movement to pull water through their gills. I strongly suggest not to expose any other meds or chemicals other than general cure and prazi pro.

If you have difficulty feeding, sometimes they may need some live ghost shrimp to get them started.
There pretty big ones about 4ft the other 3ft. I have them in a 20 Breeder full of rocks. Do you think they’ll be OK for observation for 30 days? I understand the bioload. Just not sure if it will stress them out.

Also not sure if it makes a difference the LFS has had them for the last 3 month. And basically gave them to me to get them out of the store.
 

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There pretty big ones about 4ft the other 3ft. I have them in a 20 Breeder full of rocks. Do you think they’ll be OK for observation for 30 days? I understand the bioload. Just not sure if it will stress them out.

Also not sure if it makes a difference the LFS has had them for the last 3 month. And basically gave them to me to get them out of the store.

Very small tank and will create alot of stress on its own. As eels eat on a gorge/ fast routine that means they eliminate a large amount all at once. That means a tremendous ammonia spike if a tank doesn't have the proper biological filtration. That size tank would not be adequate even for one eel that size. Stress and ammonia spikes will greatly compromise their health.
 

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Yikes, that is small for eels that big. When you first posted I was thinking they were babies; maybe a foot each. If each one had their own 20 gallon tank then it might be enough, but even then it would be on the cramped side.

Do you have enough pvc pipe for them to get their whole body in?
 
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Yikes, that is small for eels that big. When you first posted I was thinking they were babies; maybe a foot each. If each one had their own 20 gallon tank then it might be enough, but even then it would be on the cramped side.

Do you have enough pvc pipe for them to get their whole body in?
They do disappear in the rock work. I could setup another 20 breeder. I’m not worried about bioload. I monitor closely and Im setup for quick water changes.
Very small tank and will create alot of stress on its own. As eels eat on a gorge/ fast routine that means they eliminate a large amount all at once. That means a tremendous ammonia spike if a tank doesn't have the proper biological filtration. That size tank would not be adequate even for one eel that size. Stress and ammonia spikes will greatly compromise their health.
I will setup another 20 this weekend. ( I’m old I need to recover from setting up this QT Lol) I’m just going to observe for a few weeks then place in my 360.
 
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Eels really only need an observational qt, I suggest 4 weeks, some say 45 days is safer, but eels are very safe. They are very resistant to any protozoan diseases, because of their extra thick slime coating, ick and velvet can really only attack only the sickly of eels. I have even transferred eels directly from tanks with ick and velvet into other tanks without issue. You could prophylactically treat with general cure if you choose, but if they are eating and you are good at observation that is not necessary. The most common issue would be internal parasites and if they are eating, then there should be no issue, general cure would be treatment Flukes are also possible which would also present in not eating, and can also be accompanied by head shaking and swimming towards the surface, as well as possible cloudy eyes, prazi pro is the preferred treatment. The head shake is also a natural movement to pull water through their gills. I strongly suggest not to expose any other meds or chemicals other than general cure and prazi pro.

If you have difficulty feeding, sometimes they may need some live ghost shrimp to get them started.
Lion King. This may sound crazy. But what exactly am I observing for?? Lol. They are eating well. Ate the same day I brought them home. And at night they are active. During the day the poke there head out every now and then. Really don’t see them much. Respiration about 38-42BPM.
 

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These are not super easy animals to QT. I might suggest that you ask @Jay Hemdal for his opinion.

While I am no help in how to QT these, I did keep one for 5+ years. They can just totally hide and not eat for weeks or a month. This is normal and don't worry about it when it happens.

Asian food market is your friend. Cuttlefish, whole shrimp, crabs, octopus are go to. Guts, brains and whole food is better than shrimp tails and fish fillets.
 

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Lion King. This may sound crazy. But what exactly am I observing for?? Lol. They are eating well. Ate the same day I brought them home. And at night they are active. During the day the poke there head out every now and then. Really don’t see them much. Respiration about 38-42BPM.

Eating is the big one, as internal parasites is usually the most common issue you would have, if they are eating that's a good sign. It doesn't mean 100% so you have to give it about 3 weeks, if they did have internal parasites they could appear normal for a few weeks before they took hold. You also take this time to train them to eat with your method of feeding. Releasing into a 360g captive environment they could just disappear into the rocks and not understand what you were trying to feed them is food. Zebra eels are generally pretty tame, but releasing a freshly wild caught eel directly into a display could also pose a risk for other inhabitants.

Flukes; cloudy eyes, shaking head, swimming at the surface. Sometimes it takes a while for these things to show up, once they are in the rocks in a 360g, it would be a nightmare to try and get them out if you had an issue.

Very, very rare, I'd even say just not going to happen, but protozoan diseases like ich or velvet.

If any of issues arise it would also spread to other fish, overall eels are a safe bet if they are eating, but I would at least give it a few feeding cycles.

I wrote a couple of threads on eels if you want to take a look.
 
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speedjester

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Eating is the big one, as internal parasites is usually the most common issue you would have, if they are eating that's a good sign. It doesn't mean 100% so you have to give it about 3 weeks, if they did have internal parasites they could appear normal for a few weeks before they took hold. You also take this time to train them to eat with your method of feeding. Releasing into a 360g captive environment they could just disappear into the rocks and not understand what you were trying to feed them is food. Zebra eels are generally pretty tame, but releasing a freshly wild caught eel directly into a display could also pose a risk for other inhabitants.

Flukes; cloudy eyes, shaking head, swimming at the surface. Sometimes it takes a while for these things to show up, once they are in the rocks in a 360g, it would be a nightmare to try and get them out if you had an issue.

Very, very rare, I'd even say just not going to happen, but protozoan diseases like ich or velvet.

If any of issues arise it would also spread to other fish, overall eels are a safe bet if they are eating, but I would at least give it a few feeding cycles.

I wrote a couple of threads on eels if you want to take a look.
They have been at my LFS for the last three month. And eating well. I’ve been stick feeding them for the last two days. Without issue. As soon as I approach and turn lights on they poke there heads out. Is prazipro safe to use on eels? My intention is to observe for two weeks establish a bio filter. Then treat with prazi. ( If it’s OK).

I’ve dipped all my fish Sharks, rays,tangs everything for 90 minutes in Rally ruby reef. Before moving. But not sure about the eels.
 

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They have been at my LFS for the last three month. And eating well. I’ve been stick feeding them for the last two days. Without issue. As soon as I approach and turn lights on they poke there heads out. Is prazipro safe to use on eels? My intention is to observe for two weeks establish a bio filter. Then treat with prazi. ( If it’s OK).

I’ve dipped all my fish Sharks, rays,tangs everything for 90 minutes in Rally ruby reef. Before moving. But not sure about the eels.

Prazi pro is fine, and the best for flukes. General cure would be the best choice for internal parasites. These are the only medications I recommend for eels. Eels can hold toxins in their internal organs, and it can affect them down the line. Not only would I not recommend the product you mentioned, it just isn't necessary. That product contains formalin along with other caustic chemicals, I've only seen bad ends when formalin products were used in conjunction with eels. When people tell you they've used it successfully with their eels, ask them in year, it's likely that eel has passed.
 
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Prazi pro is fine, and the best for flukes. General cure would be the best choice for internal parasites. These are the only medications I recommend for eels. Eels can hold toxins in their internal organs, and it can affect them down the line. Not only would I not recommend the product you mentioned, it just isn't necessary. That product contains formalin along with other caustic chemicals, I've only seen bad ends when formalin products were used in conjunction with eels. When people tell you they've used it successfully with their eels, ask them in year, it's likely that eel has passed.
I have general cure. I’ll use that if you’ve used it before. Better safe than sorry.
 
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speedjester

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Well tonight I’ve noticed one of my QT tanks are leaking. The Zebra eels have been in quarantine for 8 days. All are eating daily respiration still low to mid 30bpm Would it be safe to transfer to my main DT. I’m mainly concerned about velvet and Ich. Thoughts?

@Jay Hemdal , lion king, Jda
 
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