Zoas won’t open

AthensReef

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Hi all,

I’ve had the Zoas in the tank for just over a week. At the same time I introduced them I also added GSP, Pipe organ and Kenya. They look great. My tank parameters are:
3E5D9456-8194-45EC-98C2-4D7BCC5AE5E0.jpeg
8967AD74-3FAC-432B-867C-81E228E3FCAF.jpeg


Calcium - 400ppm
Alkalinity- 8.2
Magnesium- 1500ppm (Seems high, considering I don’t dose anything, just water changes)
Nitrate and Phosphate - Both at 0ppm

Tank - Red Sea E260 with 2 AI Hydras running Saxby at ~ 20% reduction in intensity.
Flow - (2) Stock circulation pumps, plus (2) Aqamai KPs wavemakers

Any ideas are appreciated!
 

Fishurama

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As Ron B said, they generally like "dirtier" water. Also how's the flow like? They generally like low to moderate flow, but can tolerate higher flow, just not when acclimating to your system.
Also make sure they aren't too close to the lights, always start with less light and work up. :)
 
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AthensReef

AthensReef

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They don't like super clean water you need nitrate ann phosphate not lots but you do need some
Do you recommend dosing or over feeding to accomplish that? I feed twice a day, not much falls to the bottom. Feeding for:
(2) Percula Clowns
(2) Pajama Cardinals
(1) Purple Dottyback
(1) Firefish Goby
(1) Coral Beauty
(1) Blue green Chromis

Also, I am currently curing some “old” dry rock that I plan on eventually adding to the display. Would it help to add a few pieces to my sump? I’ve been testing the water that the rock is sitting in and it’s high in both phosphates and nitrates.
 
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AthensReef

AthensReef

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As Ron B said, they generally like "dirtier" water. Also how's the flow like? They generally like low to moderate flow, but can tolerate higher flow, just not when acclimating to your system.
Also make sure they aren't too close to the lights, always start with less light and work up. :)
I would consider it moderate flow, indirect for the most part. The frag rack is ~ 4” from the bottom. Maybe I should move it right to the bottom?
 

Fishurama

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I would consider it moderate flow, indirect for the most part. The frag rack is ~ 4” from the bottom. Maybe I should move it right to the bottom?

I wouldn't move it then, that sounds fine, moving it could just stress them more. Zoas are hardy, so you have time to get them open. I personally would just overfeed a bit and dose a 2 part amino acid combo like red sea part a/b. Get your nitrates and phosphates up a bit and you should see them open and happy.

 
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AthensReef

AthensReef

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I wouldn't move it then, that sounds fine, moving it could just stress them more. Zoas are hardy, so you have time to get them open. I personally would just overfeed a bit and dose a 2 part amino acid combo like red sea part a/b. Get your nitrates and phosphates up a bit and you should see them open and happy.

I’ll order and give that a go, thank you!
 

Terry Mattson

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See my thread on zoas not opening solved. By Terry Mattson. Lots of good informed there. Tried everything to get my zoa colonies to fully open. I have like a 100 zoas several different kinds plus palys. Turned out my iodine level was like .02. Dosed to .06 and the next day all the zoas opened and they are growing in size and spreading. I now dose 2 drops a week to maintain. 06 opm.
 
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AthensReef

AthensReef

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See my thread on zoas not opening solved. By Terry Mattson. Lots of good informed there. Tried everything to get my zoa colonies to fully open. I have like a 100 zoas several different kinds plus palys. Turned out my iodine level was like .02. Dosed to .06 and the next day all the zoas opened and they are growing in size and spreading. I now dose 2 drops a week to maintain. 06 opm.
I'm going to order the Red Sea Pro Iodine test, thanks for the info.
 

Terry Mattson

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I'm going to order the Red Sea Pro Iodine test, thanks for the info.
Great. Be sure and follow the instructions carefully. There is a temperature soaking of the reference sample that must be done. I think it is 10 minutes but it is in the instructions. I like the test kit.
 

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