1000 gallon tank for a beginner!

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SlowAndStupid

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Probably don't even need one. OP needs to open that control box on the left. I bet the thermostat is one of those grey boxes on top.


I've never even tried to look on the backside of the boxes before... I'm an idiot.

20240511_112340.jpg

20240511_112402.jpg


Not sure what the second box is.

Any idea how to look up maintenance on such a behemoth as this?
 

Oldreefer44

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I'm not sure how to do this other than an ICP test after the tank is filled. I don't think there's any way to remove the rockwork without damaging the tank though.
It may very well have been sealed in the first place. In leu of a better suggestion, I would let newly mixed SW sit in there for a week or so and then send it out for an ICP. IMO, not worth taking the chance if there is something in the rockwork that causes perpetually high PO4 or NO3 for example. The best scenario would be to send two ICP's, one for the freshly mixed water which you could compare with the week old test.
 

Rabidsquirrel

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I've never even tried to look on the backside of the boxes before... I'm an idiot.

20240511_112340.jpg

20240511_112402.jpg


Not sure what the second box is.

Any idea how to look up maintenance on such a behemoth as this?

It's a pressure switch of some kind, I don't know if there's a booster pump in the chiller. If you open the big black box (unplugged of course) and get a decent picture of the wiring I could probably figure it out, although there has to be more knowledgeable chiller people here than me. I'm just a dumb electrician.

-edit-

Is there a name/model number anywhere? Probably a decent manual online.
 
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The other box on the wall is a fuse box.
20240511_112303.jpg

There are model numbers on various equipment but nothing that I can find for the whole set up. I only get components when I search the model numbers.
 

afuel

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This is a guess without being there but probably the thermostat controls a liquid line solenoid valve. The compressor will get cycled on/off on pressure.
I’ll elaborate on that a bit the thermostat when satisfied will close a liquid line refrigerant solenoid valve. The compressor will pump refrigerant into the condenser until the low pressure side reaches the set point on the pressure control which looks like it is set at 10 psig. This prevents liquid refrigerant and oil migration in the off cycle protecting the compressor. This is a problem for freezers and coolers which is what your system looks like it was originally designed for. When the temp rises the thermostat will open the solenoid valve, when the suction side reaches 20 psig the compressor will cycle back on
 
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afuel

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Your maintenance will be keeping the condenser coil clean and maybe periodically flushing the water line in the heat exchanger
 

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I like where you're headed with this, it's going to be an exciting build!

I'm personally not a huge fan of filter floss or filter socks, my suggestion would be to turn the upper portion into an algae turf scrubber or a refugium. You could always add a roller mat if you're noticing too much particulate in the water (leave space in the sump just in case).

I like the garage storage for water, are you able to run a piece of RO tubing to the basement for an auto top off from there? If not, you may want to look at adding some form of RO water top off container to the basement fish room.
 
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I've ordered two 105 gallon vertical storage tanks for the garage and a 35 gallon one for the fish room which will be for an ATO reservoir.

The majority of the bottom sump is going to be for a very large refugium. I don't think there's enough room in the top one that a refugium there would make much of a dent in the tank. I've tried to design the top sump large enough to put in a roller mat if needed. I would use filter floss or socks first to see how much particulate there was. The only two mats I've found that are large enough to filter a tank of this size so far are the MRC Infiniti and C. A. D. S. Cloth 600.
 

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