AquariOS - Aquarium Operating System

Galvano

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
63
Reaction score
48
Location
Bavaria
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello fellow reefers and freshwater aquarists!

After years of development and testing I finally made up my mind to introduce to you my AquariOS controller project, intending to use this thread as its long-term support platform.

It's about a 20-channel low-cost DIY aquarium controller, capable of running your electric devices like light sources, pumps, heaters, coolers or feeders based on individual schedules or temperature targets. Through a built-in WiFi module the device grants wireless access to an integrated webserver and MQTT client.

ao_pa.png


A coupled TFT touch screen shows important status information like date/time, temperatures and all channels' output levels including a graphic representation in real time.

ao_scn.png


Built with dirt cheap, yet powerful standard components (ESP32-WROVER microcontroller along with PCA9685 16-channel PWM-, MCP4728 4-channel DAC- and/or DS3231 RTC-module) you can start in a flexible way with a bare breadboard build of just a handful of components and add to that as functional requirements grow.

ao_bbd.jpg


The AquariOS firmware already offers a few unique features from the highly accurate reproduction of circadian

ao_tap.png


and seasonal temperature changes

ao_ts.png


through to customizable pump flow shapes with a 5 Hz time resolution.

ao_ps.png


Nevertheless, thinking only of PCBs and cases tailored to different usage scenarios there's still a lot of work to be done. But I'm sure I can count on the skilled hardware specialists over here to make fast and steady progress resulting in a universally applicable controller construction kit for aquarists who don't need all the bells and whistles more complex systems like Ranjib's marvelous Reef-Pi have to offer.

ao_pcp.jpg


Those interested find further information including a video of the device controlling two counteracting Tunze pumps at the AquariOS website.

Thanks in advance to all of you,
it's great to be a member of this community!

Galvano
 
OP
OP
Galvano

Galvano

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
63
Reaction score
48
Location
Bavaria
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The latest AquariOS releases require a WROVER board with SPI RAM / PSRAM, no matter whether 4 or 8 MB, as only 4 MB are currently accessible. Without that additional RAM AquariOS fails to build more complex web pages.

But the ancient AquariOS version 0.9.3 from 2018, compatible with non-PSRAM ESP WROOM boards, is still available for experiments. That also keeps running the lights of my Victoria cichlid tank for years now.

BTW, I'm currently adding two AD1015 ADCs to the AquariOS system with MQTT propagation of their readings. Those will allow to attach analog sensors like LDRs, water leak detectors and maybe pH probes.
 
OP
OP
Galvano

Galvano

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
63
Reaction score
48
Location
Bavaria
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
AquariOS version 1.4.2 combined with up to two ADS1015 12-bit / ADS1115 16-bit analog-digital converter modules is now ready to be used as an MQTT interface between your home automation system and all kinds of analog sensors.

ao_ip.png
 

Whatafish

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Messages
2
Reaction score
2
Location
Germany
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you for this nice and very good build of a Tank-Controller. I looked for a stable one but the Raspberry Pi was never a real choice. I had a few from this toys in many thinks to work. But the main problem was there are too much useless programs on it running and kill the system often. This is the absolutely main reason for disqualify it for a Controller for a fish tank.
Now I am searching for a Microcontroller who do this. I found a lot but nothing really usable. But the AquariOS is nearly exact this what I need. So I give him a try and he works great.
At first one for a 60 liters sweet water tank. He runs now around six weeks with absolutely no problems.
So I startet a second one with 160 liters of sweet water. He works as expected. The only thing who gives me headache was the touch display. This only give me feedback in the middle area like the display have a size from around 1".
Today I get a new one from Amazon. It's working now perfect!

Okay I know the most people want to see pictures from both. But please wait a little bit. Am on my way.

Nice evening

Uli
 

Whatafish

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Messages
2
Reaction score
2
Location
Germany
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
First, my 60 liter aquarium.


IMG_8041.jpg

It is an old Juwel aquarium. Equipped with a conventional 18W fluorescent tube. The ballast was located in the rear under a cover. This is usually glued. Not so in my case.
I removed the entire technology and closed the openings through which the sockets were led inwards.

Luckily there were spacer bolts on the bottom of the "Electronics Box" on which I could screw my mounting plate.

IMG_8047.jpg


On the left side I then mounted a small breadboard with mosfets.
Here I did not use ready-made Meanwell drivers. These power my LED lights and a fan for aerating the aquarium. I routed the two temperature sensors DS18b20 and all external cables out of the old hole in the backside. I use two sensors to monitor the temperature for the water and the air between the cover and the water.

IMG_8052.jpg


Next to it is the RTC module and the SSR for the heating in the rear area.

IMG_8051.jpg


In the front area you can see the PCA9685 board. This gives the PWM to the output stages for "R", "G", "B", "KW" and the fan. The servo for the "feed flap" also goes from here. This protects the fish food from moisture. More on that later.

IMG_8050.jpg


Further to the rear right is the wroover board.

IMG_8048.jpg


Before that are the voltage converters for 5 volts and 3.3 volts. I have had very good experiences with these modules.
A great power is not required here, so these are more than enough.

IMG_8049.jpg


I installed the display in a specially designed and 3D printed housing. Two neodymium magnets are in holes on the back. I glued a matt black painted stainless steel sheet metal to the front of the cover. This is where the display sits, which I can remove at any time without any effort.

IMG_8043.jpg


IMG_8045.jpg


IMG_8044.jpg


About the automatic feeder. I use a slightly modified cheap one from China for about 20€. I didn't put the batteries in here. The contacts were connected directly to the 3.3 volt voltage converter. The electronics and the display are not used by me. Only the button for manual feeding is triggered via a roller switch on my feed funnel. This switch is activated automatically as soon as the flap is opened by the servo.

IMG_8042.jpg


At this moment the food box is not mounted because they get today Artemia.

One thing I will change is the cables are going directly into the electronicbox. I am looking for a good and small connecting system.

So that's about the small one. The 160 Liters will follow in a few days.

I know about the difficulty to making this things when you are not born with a soldering iron in your hands. But it's not so hard as it looks a like.

But you can ask questions about making this nice system working for your fish tank
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT TYPE OF LIGHT ARE YOU USING FOR YOUR REEF?

  • LEDs.

    Votes: 227 92.7%
  • T5 Florescence.

    Votes: 33 13.5%
  • Metal Halides.

    Votes: 8 3.3%
  • Other (Please explain).

    Votes: 4 1.6%
Back
Top