Don’t see why it would hurt. It’s basically what bottle coralline is. It’s not something I have done, I just add coralline on frag plugs or shells and that is enough eventually.
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Avoiding the ugly stage?!?
- Thread starter tzoa
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Lasse
10K Club member
Every unknown chemical you ad can and will change some of the loops and their feedbacks. The coralline´s is there for sure and they will take over when the system is ready for it. IME - taking shortcuts can ending up with a disaster. If not the system ready for a stable coralline growth - it will not work. Keep Mg and Ca in the upper end and you will have your coralline growth plus a mature and stable aquarium.
Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
Exotrezy
Active Member
Ok, also just to confirm, I can keep doing water changes and etc and my diatoms should go away on their own in 2-3 weeks?
Yes, watch po4 to not hit 0.
It could be a few weeks but sometimes longer. you will probably start to see green micro algae after the diatom bloom.
Exotrezy
Active Member
What would the green micro algae be? Also for the phosphate test kit, salifert is fine right? You and many others stated that it is hard to read, API is on the more inaccurate side, and hanna is pretty pricey so I don't know if I really have another option besides salifert.
green micro algae is just like green on the rock and glass, normal and will always be in your tank, its part of a healthy tank but it won't be so noticeable once the tank ages and cuc will eat it.
API can't really be used, its not sensative enough. The scale goes from 0 to 0.25 as the next color which is no help.
Salifert is annoying to read but not impossible.
Here is a pic of a tank going through micro algae stages. In feb it was very green but in may it's more slight.
Is this a micro green algae the ‘ugly stage’?
Greetings! New to this forum. I’m a hobbyist from way long ago. My son and I set up a 30 gallon bow front tank as an experiment, using a minimalist approach to equipment. I’m writing to ask if you would consider this green algae a serious problem? So, it’s been 4 1/2 weeks since set up. We...
www.reef2reef.com
Exotrezy
Active Member
Ok, also thank you for making everything seem so much more simpler and easier to understand. Others were saying about different types of algae which I understand but you made it very simple and were very prompt with quick replies and amazing help!green micro algae is just like green on the rock and glass, normal and will always be in your tank, its part of a healthy tank but it won't be so noticeable once the tank ages and cuc will eat it.
API can't really be used, its not sensative enough. The scale goes from 0 to 0.25 as the next color which is no help.
Salifert is annoying to read but not impossible.
Here is a pic of a tank going through micro algae stages. In feb it was very green but in may it's more slight.
Is this a micro green algae the ‘ugly stage’?
Greetings! New to this forum. I’m a hobbyist from way long ago. My son and I set up a 30 gallon bow front tank as an experiment, using a minimalist approach to equipment. I’m writing to ask if you would consider this green algae a serious problem? So, it’s been 4 1/2 weeks since set up. We...
Exotrezy
Active Member
Hey, I found this amazing presentation by BRS and just wanted to share it with you. It also answers lots of the questions I was asking you earlier! I watched in 2x speed from around 10 min to the end.green micro algae is just like green on the rock and glass, normal and will always be in your tank, its part of a healthy tank but it won't be so noticeable once the tank ages and cuc will eat it.
API can't really be used, its not sensative enough. The scale goes from 0 to 0.25 as the next color which is no help.
Salifert is annoying to read but not impossible.
Here is a pic of a tank going through micro algae stages. In feb it was very green but in may it's more slight.
Is this a micro green algae the ‘ugly stage’?
Greetings! New to this forum. I’m a hobbyist from way long ago. My son and I set up a 30 gallon bow front tank as an experiment, using a minimalist approach to equipment. I’m writing to ask if you would consider this green algae a serious problem? So, it’s been 4 1/2 weeks since set up. We...
Oh nice, there are a lot of good videos out there from speaker events. They will be a lot more quality/accurate than a random youtube guy
Exotrezy
Active Member
Yup!Oh nice, there are a lot of good videos out there from speaker events. They will be a lot more quality/accurate than a random youtube guy
Lasse
10K Club member
That´s one of the reason why I do normally not do any regular WC in the first two months.
Testing is all the rage, but it's a double-edged sword - it's easy to get it wrong at first. I test a lot but I often have difficulty understanding whether the result is correct or not. I have tested water for my whole grown up life - so I'm not completely unfamiliar with the different methods. I used Hanna Marin Master for phosphate and nitrate. I have difficulty interpreting colors and this applies to all brands of color tests. If you do a 10 % WC - you will decrease the PO4 with 10% - that´s is always true and you will never see this in the start with which ever test because the PO4 concentration in a total artificial set may be very low
Another reason is that newly made artificial saltwater lack many of the organic molecules known as organic colloids. This colloids is IMO important in the interface between the water and the mucus of the fish. Fish have a well-developed external defense against microorganisms through the mucus that surrounds their bodies. IMO - this is one of the reason why its more common with diseases in newly started aquariums
A third reason is that its rather fast become a lot of microscopic particles in an aquarium water. The inorganic type of these particles is a very good substrate for nitrifying bacteria in the start of the nitrification process together with other beneficial properties as a good bacterial biome.
With use of only "dead" rocks and "dead" sand all of these concerns get more actual - IMO. Living rocks and sand will "spill" both PO4 and and organic colloids to the water, hence speeding up the maturing process
However - with this in mind - that regular WC can slow down the maturing process of the aquarium water - especially with a 100% artificial start - if you want to do regular WC in the start - do them small.
Sincerely Lasse
Lasse
10K Club member
When I first wrote my 15 steps to start an aquarium in a Swedish web forum back in 2017 (published at R2R in 2019) - it was an easy adaption of the conclusion in this speak from 2022. These 15 steps was a proactive way to achieve the same result as they get. I based the steps on hundreds of aquarium setups - both small and large systems during my lifetime and knowledge of general ecology and ecosystems.
However - I do not share his fear for photosynthetic organism - they are obligate in a aquarium ecosystem because they are the primary producers that feed many of the predators. The trick is to not let any of them take over in a monoculture - a bloom. I´m never afraid of introducing fresh living rocks - I only will be sure that I have enough of grazers - both smal and larger.
Sincerely Lasse
Exotrezy
Active Member
Well I don’t think he really had a fear for them, it was more a kind of joke and as he showed in the presentation, he was easily able to beat the algae’s by not even doing anything and letting the copepods and etc from the seeded rock handle everything from my understanding.
Lasse
10K Club member
The dark cure of living rocks (that´s kills both the food and the critters living on it) was one of his basic theories. But other things was very much inline with my thinking and understanding of a living ecosystem.
Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
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