CORAL INFECTION ELIMINATION

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xiaoxiy

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Got mine this evening. Powder is yellow and smells slightly sweet. When mixed into water, it almost smells like chemiclean.

Will report back on how it seems to affect these struggling corals.
IMG_2253.jpeg
 

CoralSurprise

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Got mine this evening. Powder is yellow and smells slightly sweet. When mixed into water, it almost smells like chemiclean.

Will report back on how it seems to affect these struggling corals.
IMG_2253.jpeg
According to the state of bones, it seems that the organic matter resolve capacity in your tank is not enough.Therefore, the bones are dirty and algae grow, which will lead to the disadvantage of corals.Mixed algae and bacteria on the bones will further stimulate the tissue to shrink back.You can simultaneously scrape the bones with a knife and wipe them with hydrogen peroxide.Simultaneously dip CIE. you can post your tank photo for further diagnose
 

fltt

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xiaoxiy

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According to the state of bones, it seems that the organic matter resolve capacity in your tank is not enough.Therefore, the bones are dirty and algae grow, which will lead to the disadvantage of corals.Mixed algae and bacteria on the bones will further stimulate the tissue to shrink back.You can simultaneously scrape the bones with a knife and wipe them with hydrogen peroxide.Simultaneously dip CIE. you can post your tank photo for further diagnose
Thanks for the response. I'll consider doing a peroxide treatment on the skeleton, however I also don't want to damage the tissue any further.

Here are photos of the tank. Those 4 pieces (2 gonis and 2 frogspawn) are the only ones that are struggling. Other corals seem fine (see photos)
 

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BanditMan15

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So on the box it states storage- unopened Refrigerated 6 mo ... however when I received my shipment it wasn't in a cooler or packed with ice. Is that going to mess with medication? Also, using it in tank.... it says 1 scoop per 25g for 3-5 days per treatment. So I'm confused you dose daily for 3 to 5 days or the initial treatment ( day 1 ) takes 3 to 5 days? Then, do you have to do a water change after the treatment? Lastley, how often can you treat tank?
Thanks!
 

CoralSurprise

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So on the box it states storage- unopened Refrigerated 6 mo ... however when I received my shipment it wasn't in a cooler or packed with ice. Is that going to mess with medication? Also, using it in tank.... it says 1 scoop per 25g for 3-5 days per treatment. So I'm confused you dose daily for 3 to 5 days or the initial treatment ( day 1 ) takes 3 to 5 days? Then, do you have to do a water change after the treatment? Lastley, how often can you treat tank?
Thanks!
1. Storage Requirements
- Unopened products can be stored and transported at room temperature for extended periods (e.g., 10+ days), but refrigeration is strongly recommended for long time storage.
- After opening, refrigerate in dry conditions to maintain stability.

2. Water Maintenance
- No additional water changes are required under normal conditions. Routine maintenance suffices.
- Partial water changes are permissible during the process if needed.

3. Whole-Tank Treatment Advisory
- Not officially recommended. Frequency varies significantly:
- Some users apply monthly treatments
- Others adopt shorter/longer intervals (case-dependent).
- Recommended protocol: Monitor pathogenic bacteria levels using Vibrio culture dish tests to determine treatment timing.
 

BanditMan15

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1. Storage Requirements
- Unopened products can be stored and transported at room temperature for extended periods (e.g., 10+ days), but refrigeration is strongly recommended for long time storage.
- After opening, refrigerate in dry conditions to maintain stability.

2. Water Maintenance
- No additional water changes are required under normal conditions. Routine maintenance suffices.
- Partial water changes are permissible during the process if needed.

3. Whole-Tank Treatment Advisory
- Not officially recommended. Frequency varies significantly:
- Some users apply monthly treatments
- Others adopt shorter/longer intervals (case-dependent).
- Recommended protocol: Monitor pathogenic bacteria levels using Vibrio culture dish tests to determine treatment timing.
So just I understand correctly, it is NOT recommended to use this product as an "in tank" treatment? Can you give some examples of what to look out for or why it's Not Officially Recommended?
Only reason I am asking is I am kind of at a cross roads here, BJD has already taken out multiple and is currently eating right down the path of my plates. Now I added a bunch of good bacteria and slowed down tremendously but it's still there. I have a 200G mixed reef and some very very expensive pieces. I don't mind taking the long road or stretching out doses just want to be safe.
 

CoralSurprise

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Thanks for the response. I'll consider doing a peroxide treatment on the skeleton, however I also don't want to damage the tissue any further.

Here are photos of the tank. Those 4 pieces (2 gonis and 2 frogspawn) are the only ones that are struggling. Other corals seem fine (see photos)
Old Tank Syndrome (OTS) is a common phenomenon in mature marine aquariums characterized by stagnant water flow, dead zones, and ineffective sediment management, despite seemingly stable water parameters (e.g., pH, nitrate). Over time, organic debris accumulates, fostering harmful organisms like nuisance algae and parasites, which compete with corals for resources and space.

For stock tanks exhibiting these symptoms, the following strategies are recommended for your tanks:
1. Separate SPS and LPS corals to minimize interspecific competition and simplify maintenance.
2. Elevate structural elements (e.g., plastic boards or platforms) to create open spaces beneath rocks or decorations, facilitating sediment removal and improving water circulation.
3. Introduce probiotics or enzymes to break down organic deposits and restore microbial balance.
4. Control overgrowth by regularly pruning filter-feeding organisms and manually removing invasive algae (e.g., hair algae, cyanobacteria).
 

CoralSurprise

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So just I understand correctly, it is NOT recommended to use this product as an "in tank" treatment? Can you give some examples of what to look out for or why it's Not Officially Recommended?
Only reason I am asking is I am kind of at a cross roads here, BJD has already taken out multiple and is currently eating right down the path of my plates. Now I added a bunch of good bacteria and slowed down tremendously but it's still there. I have a 200G mixed reef and some very very expensive pieces. I don't mind taking the long road or stretching out doses just want to be safe.

So just I understand correctly, it is NOT recommended to use this product as an "in tank" treatment? Can you give some examples of what to look out for or why it's Not Officially Recommended?
Only reason I am asking is I am kind of at a cross roads here, BJD has already taken out multiple and is currently eating right down the path of my plates. Now I added a bunch of good bacteria and slowed down tremendously but it's still there. I have a 200G mixed reef and some very very expensive pieces. I don't mind taking the long road or stretching out doses just want to be safe.
this is why we not recoment the tank treatment,for many people use the product blindly without correctly locating the source of the problem.Regular use of the whole tank is certainly helpful to prevent BJD.But infection is not the only factor of BJD, and many factors can lead to BJD.BJD is a symptom rather than a disease.In view of the fact that there are many algae in your tank, this indicates the deterioration of the ecosystem, which is also a common cause of BJD. It's not that we don't recommend whole tank treatment, but we don't recommend using it blindly and regard it as a master key, although it will help to sell more products.

you can refer to my advice to reefer above, or you can send out your tank photo , and I will help you further diagnose:

Old Tank Syndrome (OTS) is a common phenomenon in mature marine aquariums characterized by stagnant water flow, dead zones, and ineffective sediment management, despite seemingly stable water parameters (e.g., pH, nitrate). Over time, organic debris accumulates, fostering harmful organisms like nuisance algae and parasites, which compete with corals for resources and space.

For stock tanks exhibiting these symptoms, the following strategies are recommended for your tanks:
1. Separate SPS and LPS corals to minimize interspecific competition and simplify maintenance.
2. Elevate structural elements (e.g., plastic boards or platforms) to create open spaces beneath rocks or decorations, facilitating sediment removal and improving water circulation.
3. Introduce probiotics or enzymes to break down organic deposits and restore microbial balance.
4. Control overgrowth by regularly pruning filter-feeding organisms and manually removing invasive algae (e.g., hair algae, cyanobacteria).
 

xiaoxiy

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Old Tank Syndrome (OTS) is a common phenomenon in mature marine aquariums characterized by stagnant water flow, dead zones, and ineffective sediment management, despite seemingly stable water parameters (e.g., pH, nitrate). Over time, organic debris accumulates, fostering harmful organisms like nuisance algae and parasites, which compete with corals for resources and space.

For stock tanks exhibiting these symptoms, the following strategies are recommended for your tanks:
1. Separate SPS and LPS corals to minimize interspecific competition and simplify maintenance.
2. Elevate structural elements (e.g., plastic boards or platforms) to create open spaces beneath rocks or decorations, facilitating sediment removal and improving water circulation.
3. Introduce probiotics or enzymes to break down organic deposits and restore microbial balance.
4. Control overgrowth by regularly pruning filter-feeding organisms and manually removing invasive algae (e.g., hair algae, cyanobacteria).
How can you tell that I have old tank syndrome from the photos I provided?
 

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