Cyano microscope ID and management help

[benwilsonx]

Just want to verify that this is cyanobacteria in the images below?

Tank is over 3 years old, but I replaced the substrate when I switched from a glass to an acrylic tank in June - so for a while I assumed that I had a bit of new tank syndrome. Things seemed to be improving a month or so ago, but it’s getting worse again (now starting to cover the rock as well as the substrate).

Of note is that my nitrates have dropped to zero, while my phosphates are increasing slightly (now 0.12). Nitrate initially bottomed out after I moved everything to the new tank, so I was feeding more and added a few fish, but after briefly starting to climb, I measured nitrate at 0.0 today. Could this be consumption from the cyano (and a small amount of hair algae)?

I’ll put my full test parameters in the next post.

Is there a big difference between green and red cyano?

My ideas for the cyano from reading other threads:

• Adding Microbacter7 or Microbacter Clean (I have both, but have never used them)
• Using coral snow (CaCO3), +/- adding one of the Microbacter products to the “snow.” I’m leaning towards trying this combo first, just wondering if a bacteria additive would make it harder to raise nitrates?
• Increase nitrate via feeding or otherwise (do I need to be concerned about increasing phosphates more with extra food, though?)
• Lights off period?
• Shorten lighting period?

Thoughts on what I should try first? Thanks for any guidance!

 

[BristleWormHater]

I know you always say algae ID isn't your thing but I'm tagging you anyways @ISpeakForTheSeas!

 

[benwilsonx]

System and parameters:

Waterbox 130.4 (tank replaced with acrylic of identical volume)
Caribsea Special Grade Sand (100 lbs)
KP Aqautics aquacultured live rock (100 lbs)
Inkbird Heater controller
ATO

Water/Salt
RO/DI from BRS 5 stage
Instant Ocean salt, mixed to 1.026

Flow
Varios 6 Return Pump, at level 3 of 5
Two MP40s, running at max 50-60% on Lagoon mode

Filtration
Two mesh filter socks in the sump
Reef Octopus Regal 150INT skimmer

Lighting
Two AI Hydra 32 LEDs

Dosing
Daily Alkalinity and Calcium from BRS (manual daily dosing, haven’t added pumps yet)
Magnesium weekly

Parameters
Temp: 78 F
Salinity: 1.026 (Hanna salinity tester)
pH: 8.1
Alkalinity: 9.4 (Hanna)
Calcium: 420 (Red Sea)
Magnesium: 1350 (Aquaforest)
Nitrate: 0 (Hanna High-range)
Phosphate: 0.12 (Hanna ULR)

 

[benwilsonx]

Any thoughts on ID from the images in my first post?

 

[moosevandyke]

Chemi clean simple safe fast. Works amazing

 

[BristleWormHater]

This doesn't look like cyano to me, just based on the regular image.
@vetteguy53081 @ISpeakForTheSeas

 

[Dburr1014]

I'd say it's cyanobacteria
Simple Google search gave me these to compare.

 

[Dburr1014]

Usually an imbalance of nutrients.
Feeding more is my go to but you can also dose ammonium.
My system got worse dosing ammonium but many people are good with it.

A side note: my nutrients are the same as yours and my system is fine. I auto-feed 4 times and 1 frozen diy cube daily with nori 1 or 2 times a week.
13 sub 3" fish and 1 adult purple tang.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Either cyano but also looks like green hair algae
Will have to view on larger screen however treating for cyano would also address green hair algae
Can you post a pic under bright white lighting of tank?