Dino in newer tank. ID and process ?

[Ziggy17]

Wrong. I do know the difference!

What variant of Dino did you have based on the microscope slide?

 

[alex37310]

Seriously, new tank dinos are best managed the way I described. I use a turkey baster to suck up the crud, put this into a container, let it settle, and then you can add the clear water back to the tank if you want. You don't need to remove a lot of tank water to get the stuff out. You can also blow it off the sand and rock and use a net to collect the grungies

I was thinking about that! My turkey baster is a bit too small to reach the sand, I might shake it with some pvc lol

 

[Ziggy17]

Please don’t take that advice. There is no such thing as “new tank Dino’s” vs “old tank dinos”. Dinos are dinos, period. Some require a UV to kill them, which can get rid of them in a week. The other variants take months. If you get brown dust in the first few months, likely diatoms, not Dinos. And don’t let anyone tell you they can tell the difference between Dinos and diatoms, as they can identical to the naked eye. Get a cheap kids microscope that magnifies 400x and get an ID as to what’s there.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

What variant of Dino did you have based on the microscope slide?

While, in the absence of any right now thus nothing to examine, I will stipulate that I may have had brown cyano or even chrysophytes, these outbreaks were definitely not diatoms.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I was thinking about that! My turkey baster is a bit too small to reach the sand, I might shake it with some pvc lol

You can of course follow any suggestions made, but my point is, I have had (in multiple new tanks) what looks and behaves like dinos and have found that the type that occur in new tanks (mine and others) are part of the regular algae cycle and with removal and patience, will go away without any other intervention.

 

[Reefering1]

Please don’t take that advice.

To be clear, why are you so adamant to not remove whatever it is? Where is the harm?

 

[alex37310]

Please don’t take that advice. There is no such thing as “new tank Dino’s” vs “old tank dinos”. Dinos are dinos, period. Some require a UV to kill them, which can get rid of them in a week. The other variants take months. If you get brown dust in the first few months, likely diatoms, not Dinos. And don’t let anyone tell you they can tell the difference between Dinos and diatoms, as they can identical to the naked eye. Get a cheap kids microscope that magnifies 400x and get an ID as to what’s there.

i ordered a x1200 on temu, might take a bit to get there. In the meantime i blacked out and ket blue 10% as advised. I vaccummed some off and bought hydrogen peroxyd 3%. Was reading about it and saw that it would kill all my pods who finally popped up so im a bit bummed but if thats what it takes so be it. What kind of uv sterilizer would i need if i happen to need one? my tank is 55 gallon, water volume probably 65-70 with sump

 

[alex37310]

This is funny, my thread is actually turning into what i was mentionning in my original post LOL

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

This is funny, my thread is actually turning into what i was mentionning in my original post LOL

Brown snot? Lol

 

[Reefering1]

This is what could happen with almost every reefing topic. There's a thousand ways to skin a cat... take it all in, think about it, ask more questions and make a decision. Note the results and try to learn from it. Much of this hobby is trail and error

 

[Reefering1]

Brown snot? Lol

This is my sheet of brown snot collected every day or 2. Keeps it off the corals and mostly off the rocks while my tank settles in. This system is only 4 months old, supporting acropora, and I'm reluctant to use uv at this stage, out of concern for stunting whatever bacterial development is going on in there. Some days it's less. If I miss a feeding, it will be more. Been doing this for about 3-4 weeks now. No reason, at this point, to go nuclear

 

[Ziggy17]

To be clear, why are you so adamant to not remove whatever it is? Where is the harm?

Because the methods mention doesn’t removes them, it’s just helping them spread to more areas. The DinoS vary in size but most are around the 10 micron size, so unless you are filtering the water with a 5 micron sock or filter, you aren’t removing anything. It’s like throwing sand at a chain link fence.
The OP mentioned there is no consensus on treatment. There is. Tried, tested, and true. Again, read this document.
Also visit the Mack’s Facebook page. You will learn a lot quickly. All they do all day every day is walk people through dinos.

But you need to ID what you have, and for that you need to look at it under a scope, which you ordered.

 

[Fenral]

At the risk of getting involved with what may devolve into a very ugly thread…

Regardless of what it is - you can attack the problem by out competing it and continuing the life cycle to the next evolution. Dose live phyto, add some pods - and continue to add live phyto - and more then likely the problem will resolve itself as the system establishes a new biological balance.

 

[alex37310]

At the risk of getting involved with what may devolve into a very ugly thread…

Regardless of what it is - you can attack the problem by out competing it and continuing the life cycle to the next evolution. Dose live phyto, add some pods - and continue to add live phyto - and more then likely the problem will resolve itself as the system establishes a new biological balance.

So far that’s what I’m doing, I’m debating h2o2 due to my pods population literally exploding this week in tank. I have lights off, dosing phyto and microbacter7. Have a microscope on the way and might swing by the store today for an id then if it gets worse in the next few days I will start treating according to id

 

[Fenral]

So far that’s what I’m doing, I’m debating h2o2 due to my pods population literally exploding this week in tank. I have lights off, dosing phyto and microbacter7. Have a microscope on the way and might swing by the store today for an id then if it gets worse in the next few days I will start treating according to id

Well - if i followed the thread your running with your lights reduced. The phyto needs light to process and compete. Doing both won’t have the desired outcome…

 

[alex37310]

Well - if i followed the thread your running with your lights reduced. The phyto needs light to process and compete. Doing both won’t have the desired outcome…

Thank you so much for pointing this out!

I’m currently reading about Dr Tim’s Refresh/Waste away and considering giving that a shot maybe! Any thoughts? Still waiting on a microscope.. 1 out of 3 lfs can test and they charge 50$