Euphyllia Coral Dying

[ajmckay]

Oops accidentally double posted somehow.

 

[VintageReefer]

What would you recommend for a par meter? Looking more into them now

$122 and equal readings to apogee 500 series with no conversion or multiplier needed. This guy is accurate and easy and works great

Aim for 150-200 for torch and target feed 2x a week with meaty food

 

[VintageReefer]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think he meant to say that the XR15 AREN'T weak PAR lights. I'm pretty sure cranked up to 100% and ~6-9 inches above the water line, you can get 250+ PAR at 8-10 inches under the water.

They are weak par lights with poor depth penetration. Cranking to 100% to get 250Ish par 8-10” underwater is probably 100ish on the sandbed. And this is fine. But your at 100% to get average numbers as mentioned earlier so yea they are capable of doing fine but they are not “powerful” and they need to be run at or near max power.

Also if you aren’t running those whites up high your par will be lowered obviously, but they rely on the whites to get those numbers.

I run 1 single fixture over my 48” 75g tank. I don’t have any channel over 40% and 8-10” below waterline I’m getting 250-300. Whites are around 10%.

Just a perception reality check. Xr15 does fine when cranked, or when multiples are run cranked up together and overlap. Or, when you get the optional lens kit, that helps par a lot but reduces coverage area. Many like this option though. I would agree that it’s not a powerful light. Dont have to worry about burning anything when max power is giving 250ish par

I could bleach every coral in my tank with all channels 100 unless I moved it a few feet up

 

[cohojoe412]

$122 and equal readings to apogee 500 series with no conversion or multiplier needed. This guy is accurate and easy and works great

Aim for 150-200 for torch and target feed 2x a week with meaty food

Sorry which par meter are you referring to?

 

[VintageReefer]

Sorry which par meter are you referring to?

Oh what the heck where did the link go lol

Amazon.com

 

[machliwala]

Which generation xr15 do you have? I had the G4s. The g4s have weak par and are not suitable for deep tanks. Also, as you move away from them the par declines very quickly, specially, if you are only running blues. I had mine at 100% for 10 hrs with gradual ramp ups and ramp downs. The G6 are not that much stronger but provided stronger par at depths upto 24 inches and have much better spread.

 

[VintageReefer]

Which generation xr15 do you have? I had the G4s. The g4s have weak par and are not suitable for deep tanks. Also, as you move away from them the par declines very quickly, specially, if you are only running blues. I had mine at 100% for 10 hrs with gradual ramp ups and ramp downs. The G6 are not that much stronger but provided stronger par at depths upto 24 inches and have much better spread.

I believe the g6 has less par and many were shocked and disappointed after upgrading

They do have better spread. And you can get lenses to sacrifice some spread to gain better par

 

[Reef Puncher]

same thing happened to me. Euphyllia are HIGHLY susceptible to bacteria. people think brown jelly is the only type, but its not. if you know your water quality isnt the problem, i would bet anything its bacterial. the worst part is, once one dies from a bacterial infection, it only spreads. you need to do kfc dips. asap. kung fu corals website sells it. but it usually takes a while to get to house, like a week. do you know anyone with cipro or arithymycin? i can guide you how to whole tank dose it. or you can take them out and do individual kfc dips. if you really cant find any, chemiclean and iodine mayyyyyy kill the bacteria. most LFS sell that

 

[VintageReefer]

same thing happened to me. Euphyllia are HIGHLY susceptible to bacteria. people think brown jelly is the only type, but its not. if you know your water quality isnt the problem, i would bet anything its bacterial. the worst part is, once one dies from a bacterial infection, it only spreads. you need to do kfc dips. asap. kung fu corals website sells it. but it usually takes a while to get to house, like a week. do you know anyone with cipro or arithymycin? i can guide you how to whole tank dose it. or you can take them out and do individual kfc dips. if you really cant find any, chemiclean and iodine mayyyyyy kill the bacteria. most LFS sell that

I am not affiliated with this but I do have a bottle provided and was asked to give unbiased feedback…and this stuff is equal or better compared to kfc. And I did treat my whole tank with it eventually

It is gaining a strong following and popularity in asia and is coming to market in USA soon. Probably would be shipping now if not for the Cali fires

CORAL INFECTION ELIMINATION

JOKER CORALS and Coral Surprise Present CORAL INFECTION ELIMINATION CORAL INFECTION ELIMINATION is a fish-safe and reef-safe medicine designed to treat coral infections, such as Brown Jelly Disease, bleaching, receding flesh, and more. Coral Surprise is a biomedical company registered in Asia...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Pistondog]

I’m continuing to lose my hammers and torches. Tank is 14 months old RS350. At first the torches and hammers were puffy and great polyp extension. Growing like crazy. A couple of them still seem fine. But I’ve now starting losing them faster than they grow. I’ve lost 3 torches, 2 hammers and losing an octospawn. It seems to start from the outside, start to see small
Pieces of skeleton then slowly progresses over a 2-3 week period until dead. I tried dipping impacted corals and healthy in coral Rx it seemed to slow the decline slightly.
SPS looks better than ever, zoa growing and acans are all fine.

Parameters:
Ph - 8.2-8.4
Kh 8.3-8.8
Mag -1440-1500
Ca- 440
Nitrate - 35 was closer to 20 when issues started. Has spiked lately and working to bring down slowly
Phosphate - 0.38, was 0.2 when issues started


I’m doing weekly water changes of 10%, going to be doing 20% for the next while to bring phos/nit back down.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

Are you dosing anything?

 

[cohojoe412]

Which generation xr15 do you have? I had the G4s. The g4s have weak par and are not suitable for deep tanks. Also, as you move away from them the par declines very quickly, specially, if you are only running blues. I had mine at 100% for 10 hrs with gradual ramp ups and ramp downs. The G6 are not that much stronger but provided stronger par at depths upto 24 inches and have much better spread.

I have the G6

 

[cohojoe412]

Are you dosing anything?

Yea Aquaforest component 123 and AF Elixer

 

[cohojoe412]

same thing happened to me. Euphyllia are HIGHLY susceptible to bacteria. people think brown jelly is the only type, but its not. if you know your water quality isnt the problem, i would bet anything its bacterial. the worst part is, once one dies from a bacterial infection, it only spreads. you need to do kfc dips. asap. kung fu corals website sells it. but it usually takes a while to get to house, like a week. do you know anyone with cipro or arithymycin? i can guide you how to whole tank dose it. or you can take them out and do individual kfc dips. if you really cant find any, chemiclean and iodine mayyyyyy kill the bacteria. most LFS sell that

I will see if I can find any of those. Canada sucks for any meds so I’m
Really hoping it’s a light issue. If not what’s the fallow period for coral
Bacteria? Lol

 

[cohojoe412]

So does just lighting make sense? Are the euphyllia high up doing fine and the lower suffering? Just seems odd because IME they're tolerant of a range of light intensities and receding/dying off is different than just not growing.

What about flow? Are the euphyllia that are doing fine in a different flow pattern than the ones doing poorly?

Any system changes around the time things started to turn south?

I’m just hoping it’s light with limited access to meds. Other than the coral loss I’ve had if it is due to lights wouldn’t be ideal but at least an easier solve.

Flow no real change. The one gold torch just melted over a two week period with no flow change.

No system changes other than messing with lighting.

 

[JonoH]

Here is an alternative PAR meter also that is well priced - i have one of these.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007845171029.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!129.57!66.69!!!!!%40!12000042492603944!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=742-864-1166&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en1005007845171029&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5388099104&ds_e_product_country=AU&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=21819463808&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhbi8BhDIARIsAJLOlufhZOlFT0i89Ew7TUYh_cannQpgku4-8TB-N4a3NQGSTWYo88129VsaAukbEALw_wcB

Had the same issue with my Hammers, Torches and Frogspawn a year or so ago - lost every single one.
In the end it had to be either lighting, or a bacterial infection.
I leant towards something bacterial as it went from one to the other, not all at once - and i had tested my PAR with a Apogee when i set the tank up.

 

[cohojoe412]

Here is an alternative PAR meter also that is well priced - i have one of these.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007845171029.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!129.57!66.69!!!!!%40!12000042492603944!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=742-864-1166&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en1005007845171029&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5388099104&ds_e_product_country=AU&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=21819463808&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhbi8BhDIARIsAJLOlufhZOlFT0i89Ew7TUYh_cannQpgku4-8TB-N4a3NQGSTWYo88129VsaAukbEALw_wcB

Had the same issue with my Hammers, Torches and Frogspawn a year or so ago - lost every single one.
In the end it had to be either lighting, or a bacterial infection.
I leant towards something bacterial as it went from one to the other, not all at once - and i had tested my PAR with an Apogee when i set the tank up.

Have you added any back in since?

 

[Pistondog]

Yea Aquaforest component 123 and AF Elixer

Id stop the elixer, which is amino acids.
Feeding amino acids feeds all bacteria, including 'bad' bacteria that may contribute to euphyllia demise.
I have tried supplementing with ab+ 3 times and had bjd losses each time.

 

[JonoH]

Have you added any back in since?

Yes, have heaps again now - I did add them slowly just to be sure it had cleared up.

I think it came in on a torch that i was given from another Reefer who was shutting down a tank.

 

[cohojoe412]

Yes, have heaps again now - I did add them slowly just to be sure it had cleared up.

I think it came in on a torch that i was given from another Reefer who was shutting down a tank.

Gives me hope it will eventually go away even at the cost of my current stocking.

 

[VintageReefer]

Par meter - $122 and field tested against numerous other par meters. This is accurate

Amazon.com