Help! New Goniopora is dying!

[Oninova]

Another thing...do you know if this was a frag from a wild goni or if it was aquacultured? Wild gonis tend to have a low survival rate from what everyone says.

It's an aquaculture frag.

 

[stewy14]

It's an aquaculture frag.

where from?

 

[Oninova]

did u ever calibrate it?

Nope, never have. Could that be a problem? I've had success with all my other corals and fish for months.

 

[Oninova]

where from?

WWC

 

[stewy14]

Nope, never have. Could that be a problem? I've had success with all my other corals and fish for months.

u have to calibrate every 3-6 months

 

[stewy14]

WWC

do u know the name of the goni?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I thought this might be a problem but wasn't sure. I have them going to 100% over 30 days (using AI's acclimation mode) since I just got new coral and didn't want to tick off my coral I've had for months.

IMO. The proper way to acclimate a new coral is start low on the tank and gradually move up into higher light. That way you also witness what it likes best.

Putting the lights on acclimation mode like that every time you add a new coral messes the stability of the tank, it affects every living organism in the tank for one coral.

 

[Oninova]

do u know the name of the goni?

Fruit Loops

 

[Jimbo662]

I thought this might be a problem but wasn't sure. I have them going to 100% over 30 days (using AI's acclimation mode) since I just got new coral and didn't want to tick off my coral I've had for months.

I've got two XR15 G6's on a 75g with them at 100% and getting about 80 on the sand bed. Tank is 16" deep. Some gonis like more light than others. The orange goni near the top in my latest video in my build thread is getting about 150-175.

 

[Oninova]

IMO. The proper way to acclimate a new coral is start low on the tank and gradually move up into higher light. That way you also witness what it likes best.

Putting the lights on acclimation mode like that every time you add a new coral messes the stability of the tank, it affects every living organism in the tank for one coral.

Sorry, i meant I had my tank before at 50%, this is the first time I'm using acclimation mode to get to 100%

 

[Oninova]

u have to calibrate every 3-6 months

I'll start doing this.

 

[stewy14]

I'll start doing this.

do it with normal, plain ro water, turn the dial on the meter till the line is at 0, good job
u calibrated it

 

[exnisstech]

u have to calibrate every 3-6 months

Call me paranoid lol. I drop some calibration fluid on mine pretty much every time before using it. I make the calibration fluid using Randy's DIY recipe with table salt so it only costs pennies.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Nope, never have. Could that be a problem? I've had success with all my other corals and fish for months.

I would advise getting proper calibration fluid like this one. I bought some off of amazon that was $6 or so
If you want to do a more DIY route I would follow this link that Randy posted

Reef Aquarium Salinity: DIY Calibration Standards

Reef Aquarium Salinity: DIY Calibration Standards By Randy Holmes-Farley One of the most important issues facing marine aquarists is providing a suitable environment for their aquaria's inhabitants. Among the important properties for a marine...

www.reef2reef.com

Refractometer Calibration Solution

Keep your refractometer readings accurate! A refractometer is easily one of the most important tools to have if you own a saltwater tank. Without a refractometer, we would be guessing at how much salt is in the water, and more than likely would not be correct! Even if you have a refractometer...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Oninova]

I've got two XR15 G6's on a 75g with them at 100% and getting about 80 on the sand bed. Tank is 16" deep. Some gonis like more light than others. The orange goni near the top in my latest video in my build thread is getting about 150-175.

Do you think it's worth it to cut light intensity acclimation mode time down from 30 days to a week or two?

 

[Reefing_addiction]

2 primes on a 60 gallon at 50% is the issue IMO. Turn them up to 100% and maybe even move the goni higher to get more light. Those lights are underpowered for a 60 gallon. I would also increase the flow.

So gonis generally are lower par not higher. My two 16hd on half my tank produce 100 par on the sand bed (granted I run them at 100% all blues.

I feel most people keep gonis in or around 100par

Tissue loss is not usually from low light

 

[Reefing_addiction]

I dipped it in CoralRX before placing it in my DT. I bought some lugols on Amazon and that should be here tomorrow. I'll move it to the sand bed tonight and dip it tomorrow when the lugols gets here. I figured with only one powerhead, other than the returns, I would be fine. The power head is at the opposite side of the tank about midway up. I'll try to find a spot with less flow when placing it in the sand.

So I’m not a fan of most dips to be honest

They tend to be harsh

Iodine kills the critters you don’t want

You could also use a KCL dip to kill more critters but it’s also not harsh

 

[Reefing_addiction]

I thought this might be a problem but wasn't sure. I have them going to 100% over 30 days (using AI's acclimation mode) since I just got new coral and didn't want to tick off my coral I've had for months.

Acclimation mode is usually only used when you have corals already and are switching lights

 

[ti_lavender]

I recently got a frag of the same goni from them. Doing the same thing. I have 2 other gonis that have great polyp extension. Not sure what’s up with this frag.

 

[Reefing_addiction]

So gonis generally are lower par not higher. My two 16hd on half my tank produce 100 par on the sand bed (granted I run them at 100% all blues.

I feel most people keep gonis in or around 100par

Tissue loss is not usually from low light

To add on to this many of my gonis are at higher par but they all start on the sand