How much phosphate is too much?

[CoralClasher]

What test kit do you recommend for reading No3? I was always told to keep No3 around 1-3ppm but now that I'm above 4ppm I would like to know for sure what I'm at.

 

[Neoalchemist]

With po4 at .16 I might bring no3 up to 15 or 20.
This can be done with very little pest algea outbreak. The competition doesn't have to run wild it just has to be in the game. I had very little hair algea because I kept numbers around 10-15ppm no3 and .06-.1ppm using the Salifert no3 and the Hanna ulr phosphorus checker. Also my Kole tang and Potters angle are heavy algea grazers.
If you feel as though it's lingering on a bit too long a Silicate induced Diatom bloom will wipe it out. That will also give everything in the tank a needed nutrition boost to help in recovery.

 

[CoralClasher]

What SI test kit do you recommend? And at what level should I expect a diotom bloom?

 

[CoralClasher]

And how slow should I raise No3?

 

[CoralClasher]

I'm not sure I agree that "every tank is different". In many, if not most respects they are all similar, and most processes are (or should be) subject to the same basic chemistry and biology. Problems arise when we start fiddling with natural chemical or biological processes without understanding or appreciating all of the relative ramifications -- many of which still remain unknown, and most of which are uncontrollable.

I don't have an answer for the OP, but with PO4 levels as high as 0.25 ppm and NO3 at 25-35 ppm, I've never seen slowed growth or color issues with any of the SPS, LPS, or zoanthids in my tanks. When I have reduced PO4 to below 0.05 ppm, everything except the SPS suffered greatly. I do not believe it's necessary to maintain your water at an ideal Redfield ratio (if that was even possible without certain insanity). The corals will use what is available to them in the ratios they want... and they will do as well as they can under the conditions they are in. Having been underwater in some reasonably polluted ocean areas, it is clear that corals of many kinds, including acropora, can grow just fine in very high nutrient environments... and the upper limits appear to be far beyond what any of us should ever see in our tanks. Coral coloring, IME, is much more light-dependent than nutrient-dependent.

In any case, chasing numbers to try to achieve what 'somebody' says are the perfect nutrient levels is a sure road to frustration, pain, and failure.

So if Reef tanks are similar why doesn't someone make all in one fertilizer like we have for our lawns?

 

[CoralClasher]

I'm using aquaforest 1+2+3+ and I'm really happy the way my parameters stay steady but I think my tank is still missing something.

 

[CoralClasher]

I've never sent a water sample to triton. I see they have two test kits do I need both? Or is it a waste of money?

 

[Neoalchemist]

So if Reef tanks are similar why doesn't someone make all in one fertilizer like we have for our lawns?

With the way things are now someone will. Brightwell did recently release no3 and po4.
At least that is what someone claimed in a different thread. As for ICP test I don't know is I would ever call it a waste but I haven't sent one either even though had intended to

 

[CoralClasher]

With the way things are now someone will. Brightwell did recently release no3 and po4.
At least that is what someone claimed in a different thread. As for ICP test I don't know is I would ever call it a waste but I haven't sent one either even though had intended to

So should I get the ICP-OES or N-Doc? Start with one then get the other or both at the same time?

 

[Neoalchemist]

Might as well. You should test everything you can first and take note of the results so you can get a sanity check on your tests.

 

[Neoalchemist]

What SI test kit do you recommend? And at what level should I expect a diotom bloom?

I don't test, just dosed heavy until I saw a bloom then cut my dose back to about a 10th to maintain it for awhile. But as far as I know the only si kit that's any good is the Hanna.

 

[gtrider]

my tanks run ~.3 and .7ppm phosphates. SPS and LPS dominant. I haven't had any issues.

 

[Neoalchemist]

These are some inexpensive and easy to find dosing options.
The sodium silicate came from a website called Home Science Tools, and the Spectracide stump remover, aka potassium nitrate is from Home Depot.

 

[Neoalchemist]

These are some inexpensive and easy to find dosing options.
The sodium silicate came from a website called Home Science Tools, and the Spectracide stump remover, aka potassium nitrate is from Home Depot.

Sry,here.

 

[Neoalchemist]

my tanks run ~.3 and .7ppm phosphates. SPS and LPS dominant. I haven't had any issues.

What are your nitrates and which test kit are you measuring p04 with?

 

[CoralClasher]

I don't test, just dosed heavy until I saw a bloom then cut my dose back to about a 10th to maintain it for awhile. But as far as I know the only si kit that's any good is the Hanna.

Just looked at BRS and didn't see a Hanna checker for SI.

 

[Neoalchemist]

Just looked at BRS and didn't see a Hanna checker for SI.

https://hannainst.com/hi705-silica-...pPiNZlZ42DbENsn6m3rIZWoOEptWPSwsaAsO8EALw_wcB

 

[Neoalchemist]

I don't think the Si test is necessary, the worst that can happen is a longer, heavier bloom if you go overboard and since most tank inhabitants will eat diatoms and once the silicate supply is exhausted the diatoms recede. Plus I found it very easy to visually control the bloom by altering the dose.

 

[NeedMoreReef]

hey man just want to chime in. Dinos can be really frustrating, sorry your going through this. I've dealt with full blown dinos in a reef tank of my own and while servicing tanks. (one customer was topping off with bottled water) I started delivering RO\DI for top off. next month it was gone. I looked at your FTS and first your dino problem isn't that bad, also didn't notice much of a clean up crew. IMHO make sure your RO\DI if truly making zero tds. there is no need to add chemicals, syphon the sand bed out, add about 40-50 blue leg hermits, about 30-50 adult cerith and 10 trochus snails, do 10% weekly water changes until gone . Don't bother testing for Po4, NO3. these numbers don't matter really.

 

[CoralClasher]

hey man just want to chime in. Dinos can be really frustrating, sorry your going through this. I've dealt with full blown dinos in a reef tank of my own and while servicing tanks. (one customer was topping off with bottled water) I started delivering RO\DI for top off. next month it was gone. I looked at your FTS and first your dino problem isn't that bad, also didn't notice much of a clean up crew. IMHO make sure your RO\DI if truly making zero tds. there is no need to add chemicals, syphon the sand bed out, add about 40-50 blue leg hermits, about 30-50 adult cerith and 10 trochus snails, do 10% weekly water changes until gone . Don't bother testing for Po4, NO3. these numbers don't matter really.

Yes very frustrating!! I do have more snails in QT and ready to go in. I do plan to have clams so I don't want crabs in DT I have several crabs in refugium. Phosphate are very important for my tank I've tried just letting the tank take care of its self and phosphate drop pretty fast to 0.00 No3 has been stable at 5 and yes to RO\DI with a TDS meter change DI soon as I see 1