Ick on porcupine puffer???

Steven9194

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Just looking to confirm if this is ick on a porcupine puffer we recently added to the tank. Been in for about a week and eats fine. So no other spots on any other fish and already running a UV in the display at 1.5-2X tank volume per hour.

 

vetteguy53081

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Just looking to confirm if this is ick on a porcupine puffer we recently added to the tank. Been in for about a week and eats fine. So no other spots on any other fish and already running a UV in the display at 1.5-2X tank volume per hour.


I see a few spots and is appetite normal?
To further confirm, have the dots been increasing daily?
If so, they do well in hyposalinity (1.009) as with copper at 2.15-2.25 with added aeration
 

Jay Hemdal

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I think it has ich, but a clear video taken under white lights would help with the diagnosis....
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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I see a few spots and is appetite normal?
To further confirm, have the dots been increasing daily?
If so, they do well in hyposalinity (1.009) as with copper at 2.15-2.25 with added aeration
His appetite has been normal and the dogs have not been increasing, however they may appeared to have moved overnight. Not sure if that’s a thing. I’ll try and get a better video, but it’s hard to see the body of this guy. The ones I see that moved overnight are on his fins.

I’ll try and take a video with whites on. Currently barreling Dino’s so I have the whites off.
 

vetteguy53081

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His appetite has been normal and the dogs have not been increasing, however they may appeared to have moved overnight. Not sure if that’s a thing. I’ll try and get a better video, but it’s hard to see the body of this guy. The ones I see that moved overnight are on his fins.

I’ll try and take a video with whites on. Currently barreling Dino’s so I have the whites off.
For dino, No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive.
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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I appreciate the advice! Thank you! Here’s another video of the puffer along with a couple spots I noticed on the trigger. Both are eating and were added to the tank together.

 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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Jay Hemdal

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@Jay Hemdal here’s the video.

Sorry - the video is still too blue to really see much. Actually, I think this is the same video that you posted before, I didn't see a triggerfish in it.
 

vetteguy53081

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Spots on the face, nose and fins do suggest ich and again, best methods to address this will be chloroquine phosphate or hyposalinity. While they generally do ok with coppersafe - NOT cupramine, some dont do well and the CP or hypo is safest but do keep an eye on ammonia levels with reliable kit when using these methods
 
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