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N2deep2025

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I’m constructing a stand out of 2x4’s for a 240 gallon tank. I’ve done one before and it worked out good however I now need to construct one for an opening to accommodate a 4’ long sump. I plan to hide it behind a panel out of view. How many cross braces should I use? I’m asking because now instead of having a 2.5 ft cabinet at each end, I now need to have a 4’ opening in the fromt and center stand. I will be covering the entire top with 3/4 “ plywood. Should I sister the top center braces? Tanks in advance!
 

Peace River

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When you say "accommodate a 4' long sump", do you mean that you need to slide it into the stand under the tank, or that you need to access and service the full 4' sump with no posts in front of it? Depending on the answer, one possibility is to have a removable panel on the end and slide the sump in to place that way and then have doors to access it from the front with a brace in the middle of the sump.
 
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N2deep2025

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I meant to slide it underneath the stand and perform maintenance unobstructed. To build an end panel door isn’t possible as the tank sits on a 10’wall with recessed panels. In a nutshell will a 8’ tank be supported with a 4’ opening dead center of the stand.
 

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I meant to slide it underneath the stand and perform maintenance unobstructed. To build an end panel door isn’t possible as the tank sits on a 10’wall with recessed panels. In a nutshell will a 8’ tank be supported with a 4’ opening dead center of the stand.
Sorta, I have an 8ft 300g and a 40 inch gap in the supports on my 2x4 stand on the back side where I used to slide a 4ft 75g under it for a sump, now that opening holds my RO/DI reservoir, The square white tank.
20240906_052400.jpg
 
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N2deep2025

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You will have to design the stand with a header to support the span 4’ personaly I would want a center post in the middle to be sure
Any designs I can use as a template? I have tools and don’t mind the work, I’m just not the structural engineer minded type without a go by.
 

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Any designs I can use as a template? I have tools and don’t mind the work, I’m just not the structural engineer minded type without a go by.
I believe @RocketEngineer has said that if using 2x6's for the horizontal rails, then you can do a 4' span no problem. Maybe he can confirm that for us here.

This may help:
 
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N2deep2025

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Any designs I can use as a template? I have tools and don’t mind the work, I’m just not the structural engineer minded type without a go by.
It just dawned on me. I stand considering diy stands of 2x4’s and or 2x6 to make them sturdy. Why is it the the stands that cost $$$$ are made of pressed wood and held together with staples?
 

Fish Fan

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It just dawned on me. I stand considering diy stands of 2x4’s and or 2x6 to make them sturdy. Why is it the the stands that cost $$$$ are made of pressed wood and held together with staples?
Because while most homemade DIY stands are largely way overbuilt, those pressboard stands you buy at the pet store meet like the very minimum specs so they don't simply crumble. Amazingly, some of those stands last for many years no problem. But if you're building your own, you might as well go for overbuilt out of peace of mind, especially with a 240 gallon tank.
 

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I built my stand for my 6' 125 gallon out of 2X4s but I used redwood for the rails because they don't warp as much as pine and are water resistant. I also used 4X4s for the uprights.

The top of the 4X4s are chamfered or cut back to accommodate the rails so the rails are actually sitting on wood and not just depending on the hardware.

I didn't use any screws, instead it's all bolted through, hot dipped galvanized 3/8" bolts. Screws are useless on a stand. It is also glued with waterproof glue.

I only used 45 degree supports on the back. The front I can easily put a 4' sump.

I purposely built it sturdy with single pieces of lumber with not much wood to wood surfaces touching because water gets in there and never comes out.

It has been up for 6 years and there is absolutely no sideway movement no matter how much I push on it.



It's all behind a sliding wall in my workshop so you don't see the stand.




The top automatically opens with a linear actuator and the bottom is on hinges so it swings out for storage or a sump.
 
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N2deep2025

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For this situation, 2X6 for the 48” (probably should be 50”) opening, then the rest 2x4 should work. You do want 8 total uprights though, because it is a long tank.
I’m so confused. I built the first stand for this tank using only 2x4’s so I know for fact the 2x4’s will support the weight. However I built it to accommodate a Fluval fx6 on each end so the space in the middle is maybe 24”. When you say the rest of the new build can be 2x4’s, what parts? I truly appreciate your time and input. If looking at the stand head on, are you saying the outer frame and crossbeams should be 2x6? I had already started a new frame out of 2x4’s and can incorporate it if needed or begin anew from scratch.
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For this situation, 2X6 for the 48” (probably should be 50”) opening, then the rest 2x4 should work. You do want 8 total uprights though, because it is a long tank.
 

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N2deep2025

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For this situation, 2X6 for the 48” (probably should be 50”) opening, then the rest 2x4 should work. You do want 8 total uprights though, because it is a long tank.
I do best off visuals as I don’t want ANY oops! If this is the overhead view, the sump would need to fit in and out of a 50”opening there or about. Do I screw in more 2x6 going left to right? If so how many? Should I sister them? Or do I put them going front to rear? As looking down as a viewpoint? I already have a 2x4 frame to use either top or bottom but if I need to use 2x6………..
 

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