Is that a Contraband?It was great having you come by yesterday! It was great that I could contribute to the "No Funny Business" build 2.0?
Your Digi is looking fine this morning!
Sure... But now it is going to become "Tangerine Speedo's fabulous corals" Verboten Splice...
Thanks for the T slot cuts! Update post coming soon. Came into the office last night. 4 hours... I think most people can manage what I did in 1-2. Still, happy with the result.It was great having you come by yesterday! It was great that I could contribute to the "No Funny Business" build 2.0?
Your Digi is looking fine this morning!
Yes, but if it were "Tangerine Speedo's Ultra Budgee Smuggler Grafted Splice" it would be $$$$$ instead.
If you buy his Verboten Splice and resell it as the Ultra Budgee Smuggler Grafted Splice, you get the extra $!
I think you got it all.
I think to use the term "Budgee Smuggler" in the name, it has to be a smooth skin coral... But maybe in France it is ok...
Rookie numbers are right. I coulda taken 6 hours.Well, that big thing last night turned out to not be so big. I know, I know, that's never happened before, I promise!
Was planning on moving the new tank into it's permanent home today, but a call from India today really spoiled my afternoon and I couldn't get to it. So will have to wait till Monday.
BUT, 4 hr of work last night didn't go for nothin'. Of course, a normal person with normal human DIY skills and a mediocre set of tools could have done all this in an hour or two, but whatever, I'm tootin' proud of it.
Finished drilling all the countersunk holes in the top of the stand. LOADS of M5 bolts going through the top and into the T slots. I also sprayed waterproofing onto the exposed plywood--it's "marine grade" plywood, but figured why not add a layer.
Next got all the T nuts and bolts ready and slid all the 2040 and 2020 bars into place. Well, "slide" would be inaccurate. There was a lot of pounding and shaking and tinkering to get all of them lined up perfectly to get the T slot to go into place. Result: entire perimeter under top of stand now reinforced with 2040.
But that's not all! In the corners of the 2040s where they meet, I added double aluminum extrusion corner brackets. And to keep the back of the stand firmly in place (no sagging or racking), I drilled in two large black extruded aluminum corner brackets.
Also added a hole in the right section of the stand for power cords to pass through.
But that's not all!! Above the sump section, the most open section, added cross bars, doubled up on corner brackets, and also added L brackets underneath the 2040 at the edges, drilled into the stand to "seat" the T slots. Now they are attached from above and held up from below!
Added some sandable wood epoxy over the holes on the top:
And now it's ready to move!... on Monday, not today :-(
Next up: control board and cord management!
All that for only 19.99 folks! And if you act now you also get free shipping and handling!Well, that big thing last night turned out to not be so big. I know, I know, that's never happened before, I promise!
Was planning on moving the new tank into it's permanent home today, but a call from India today really spoiled my afternoon and I couldn't get to it. So will have to wait till Monday.
BUT, 4 hr of work last night didn't go for nothin'. Of course, a normal person with normal human DIY skills and a mediocre set of tools could have done all this in an hour or two, but whatever, I'm tootin' proud of it.
Finished drilling all the countersunk holes in the top of the stand. LOADS of M5 bolts going through the top and into the T slots. I also sprayed waterproofing onto the exposed plywood--it's "marine grade" plywood, but figured why not add a layer.
Next got all the T nuts and bolts ready and slid all the 2040 and 2020 bars into place. Well, "slide" would be inaccurate. There was a lot of pounding and shaking and tinkering to get all of them lined up perfectly to get the T slot to go into place. Result: entire perimeter under top of stand now reinforced with 2040.
But that's not all! In the corners of the 2040s where they meet, I added double aluminum extrusion corner brackets. And to keep the back of the stand firmly in place (no sagging or racking), I drilled in two large black extruded aluminum corner brackets.
Also added a hole in the right section of the stand for power cords to pass through.
But that's not all!! Above the sump section, the most open section, added cross bars, doubled up on corner brackets, and also added L brackets underneath the 2040 at the edges, drilled into the stand to "seat" the T slots. Now they are attached from above and held up from below!
Added some sandable wood epoxy over the holes on the top:
And now it's ready to move!... on Monday, not today :-(
Next up: control board and cord management!
The handling cost extra
I like this. Your Hydros setup looks very much like what I envisioned as a Phase 1 except I'm still not sold on using the Hydros WiFi strips for anything critical. I didn't realize the Reef Outfit Smart Dosing Containers were available with Sense Port connectors. Sweet.Plan for the control board. Recall that I constructed a frame out of two 18"x22" pieces of pegboard bolted together by 30mm standoffs.
Dimensions as accurate as I can draw them. Looks like some space for more Hydros when @tbrown 's appetite for winning Hydros giveaways has been satiated. ;-)
I think I'm good on controllers. I need a few more Sense and a few more Drive items. The only remaining Hydros I'll enter for are the X10 or the Maven.Plan for the control board. Recall that I constructed a frame out of two 18"x22" pieces of pegboard bolted together by 30mm standoffs.
Dimensions as accurate as I can draw them. Looks like some space for more Hydros when @tbrown 's appetite for winning Hydros giveaways has been satiated. ;-)
