JoJo's No Funny Business Office Tank Thread

[TheWB]

I know, I love that setup. My dream tank is like that but larger main display with a partition for a large refugium. If I had a boatload of cash, I'd make a partition on both sides, one a refugium, one a FOWLR with the larger coral/reef safe fish in the display in the middle.

That’s a cool idea. I’d love to see something like that. I was considering making my tank 60x30 instead of 48x30. If I had done that it would have been to incorporate a display refugium into the design right in the front corner as the first chamber of a 3 chamber AIO. It would have been peninsula style with the fuge, then skimmer, then return. I’m stealing the idea from here
Thread 'Custom 40 Breeder AIO'
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/custom-40-breeder-aio.698257/
so full credit where it’s due, this was actually one of my favorite threads to follow when it was active. I should have done this but in the end a 60x30 would have just been too big.

 

[Jimbo327]

Just need to tweak it a bit and it'll all work out.

 

[Stang67]

Can you take a video and post it? I'm sure all of us here can help you trouble shoot. I'm just terrible at things unless I can see what's going on.

 

[VintageReefer]

Something just isn’t right. Nobody else is having this issue. Wait for some more people to see this and help will be provided.

On my current tank I can set my return pump to 20% to 100% and there is no issue. Flow rate isn’t as finicky as you are experiencing. Something is wrong.

 

[tbrown]

Appears my Hydros float sensors and rope leak sensor aren't working. No change in status when I lift the floats or dump water on the rope... @tbrown ???

 

[tbrown]

 

[tbrown]

As far as the level between the sump and the tank, on my 125 I had to put a tee with a ball valve bypassing off the return pump back into the sump. It was easier to dial in than the drain gate valve.

Also also, a little trick you can try to reduce air noise ("gulping") is to drape a piece of airline tubing into the drain tube.

 

[VintageReefer]

Turned the return pump on.

I don't like it. I do not like it. I immediately regret buying this tank and all of the overboard expenses in setting it up. Turned it off and going home. There is no way I can leave this thing running with any confidence that I won't come back to water all over the floor.

If I twist the valve a small fraction, the water level in the overflow goes over the emergency drain. If I twist it a fraction the other way, I'm talking a very tiny fraction of a turn, it goes down to the bottom of the overflow gurgling and spewing out bubbles in the sump. The optimal position of the valve seems to depend entirely on the flow rate, which of course is going to be affected by any snail that decides to walk across the overflow or any slight change in pump performance, which I assume means I have to constantly monitor this BS valve to make sure the level in the overflow isn't rising over the top or dropping to the bottom. On top of that, turning off the pump sucks down water all the way to 1" below the rim of the sump even when I started with a very low sump level (6" below the rim) AND drilled a hole in the return (which makes a horrendous sound when it breaks the siphon).

One inch between staying in the hobby and abruptly not. I do not like this.

@alindell did you have any of these issues ? Any advice ?

 

[VintageReefer]

If I twist the valve a small fraction, the water level in the overflow goes over the emergency drain

The water in the over flow box should be just over the emergency drain. So there is a fine trickle going in

Setup guide

Herbie Overflow Plumbing Guide for Quiet Reef Aquariums - gmacreef

The Herbie method can quiet down your aquarium drain and eliminate microbubbles. The guide includes helpful diagrams and explains each component.

gmacreef.com

 

[JoJosReef]

The water in the over flow box should be just over the emergency drain. So there is a fine trickle going in

Setup guide

Herbie Overflow Plumbing Guide for Quiet Reef Aquariums - gmacreef

The Herbie method can quiet down your aquarium drain and eliminate microbubbles. The guide includes helpful diagrams and explains each component.

gmacreef.com

This is super helpful. I didn't know we need to have it trickling over the emergency--thoight that was to be avoided. Will start working on it adter picking up my corals and post some video (@Stang67 ). Thanks!

 

[tharbin]

This is super helpful. I didn't know we need to have it trickling over the emergency--thoight that was to be avoided. Will start working on it adter picking up my corals and post some video (@Stang67 ). Thanks!

I can't wait to see this tank running. I seriously considered buying one of these tanks. I think it is a well thought out and very pleasing design. The work you have done already only makes it even better. Hang in there as once it is dialed in it should work great.

 

[Jimbo327]

If you can't figure it out, some of us locals can stop by and troubleshoot.

I would open up the valve 100% open, and run the pump. Adjust the pump speed (DC) so water is just trickling over the 2nd drain, and see how many % power you are running, and that would be the max power you can run your pump and that is the max "DT to sump" turnover rate. From there, you can adjust your turnover rate (DT to sump), if you want less...then turn pump power down and close the gate valve to bring the water trickling over the 2nd drain again. That's about it.

As far as the sump level being too high after power is shut off. You can get more loc-line on your return nozzles (in the DT), so that they are a little out of water...and put your siphon hole there. That should break syphon higher in your DT, so not as much water flows back down to your sump. You can also add a check valve right near the sump, but this would be my backup.

 

[alindell]

@alindell did you have any of these issues ? Any advice ?

I decided to do a bunch of modifications. I didn't like the stock sump so I used a red sea sump and plumbed it behind a wall that goes into my utility room. Easy access and the red sea sump accommodates my m2 pump, reef mat 500, and has a built in section for an ATO. It works better for me. The return section is incredibly small in the original sump.they needed to make the tank wider to accommodate a sump that can fit a bigger pump. Tank I think looks good though. Stand was difficult to level. The overflow is a little tricky to adjust and very small. Once adjusted it's pretty quiet though. Trick is to have the water slightly overflowing the emergency pipe or just below it but since I modded my sump maybe it's different for me

 

[JoJosReef]

Omgawd... Just left @calikidcorals . Thanks guys!!

 

[JoJosReef]

Can you take a video and post it? I'm sure all of us here can help you trouble shoot. I'm just terrible at things unless I can see what's going on.

The water in the over flow box should be just over the emergency drain. So there is a fine trickle going in

Setup guide

Herbie Overflow Plumbing Guide for Quiet Reef Aquariums - gmacreef

The Herbie method can quiet down your aquarium drain and eliminate microbubbles. The guide includes helpful diagrams and explains each component.

gmacreef.com

If you can't figure it out, some of us locals can stop by and troubleshoot.

I would open up the valve 100% open, and run the pump. Adjust the pump speed (DC) so water is just trickling over the 2nd drain, and see how many % power you are running, and that would be the max power you can run your pump and that is the max "DT to sump" turnover rate. From there, you can adjust your turnover rate (DT to sump), if you want less...then turn pump power down and close the gate valve to bring the water trickling over the 2nd drain again. That's about it.

As far as the sump level being too high after power is shut off. You can get more loc-line on your return nozzles (in the DT), so that they are a little out of water...and put your siphon hole there. That should break syphon higher in your DT, so not as much water flows back down to your sump. You can also add a check valve right near the sump, but this would be my backup.

I decided to do a bunch of modifications. I didn't like the stock sump so I used a red sea sump and plumbed it behind a wall that goes into my utility room. Easy access and the red sea sump accommodates my m2 pump, reef mat 500, and has a built in section for an ATO. It works better for me. The return section is incredibly small in the original sump.they needed to make the tank wider to accommodate a sump that can fit a bigger pump. Tank I think looks good though. Stand was difficult to level. The overflow is a little tricky to adjust and very small. Once adjusted it's pretty quiet though. Trick is to have the water slightly overflowing the emergency pipe or just below it but since I modded my sump maybe it's different for me

Thanks, I've been fiddling with it since getting to the office and a bit more optimistic. I thought keeping the emergency drain "dry" was imperative, and watching the levels go up and down was nerve wracking (understanding that whatever tweak I could make to the valve to keep it steady would only be temporary due to changes in flow over time).

Here are some videos of the tank running today.

First video is with the settings left from yesterday. Had to redo the valve because it was going crazy in the back and shooting bubbles everywhere in the sump.

New video by Joseph Campo

photos.app.goo.gl

Second video is cranking up the return a bit more to increase flow for the RFG, and also loosening the gate valve a bit to account for the increased flow:

New video by Joseph Campo

photos.app.goo.gl

Third video is after tightening the valve just enough to make it overflow the E-pipe, which is where I have it at right now. After turning it off and on a few times, it looks like it is running relatively stably. It goes up quickly while the standpipe is still gurgling and then initially dumps a lot of water into the E-pipe until the standpipe stops gurgling and presumably forms a siphon. Then it goes back to just trickling over the top for now.

New video by Joseph Campo

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[JoJosReef]

Hmm, then there's this...

 

[JoJosReef]

Yup, seems to be coming out of this part:

I hand tightened that hexagonal nut, but I don't think that's where the water is leaking. I don't know how to fix that part. @fishguy242 ?? Take it apart and try to screw it back together tighter?

 

[VintageReefer]

Replace thread tape?
Inspect gasket?
Hand tighten then wrench tighten 1/8 turn?

 

[SliceGolfer]

Yup, seems to be coming out of this part:

I hand tightened that hexagonal nut, but I don't think that's where the water is leaking. I don't know how to fix that part. @fishguy242 ?? Take it apart and try to screw it back together tighter?

Teflon tape, thread sealant, or PTFE paste for male PVC threads?

I am trying to water seal the return lines which will use male PVC threaded elbows in the overflow box. It needs to be water tight, as it will prevent water from leaking during a power outage. Which should I use to get a water tight seal on scheduled 80 PVC?

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Stang67]

Yup, seems to be coming out of this part:

I hand tightened that hexagonal nut, but I don't think that's where the water is leaking. I don't know how to fix that part. @fishguy242 ?? Take it apart and try to screw it back together tighter?

Maybe try some plumbers dope. Don't laugh it's actually a thing.