JoJo's No Funny Business Office Tank Thread

Stang67

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Thanks, I've been fiddling with it since getting to the office and a bit more optimistic. I thought keeping the emergency drain "dry" was imperative, and watching the levels go up and down was nerve wracking (understanding that whatever tweak I could make to the valve to keep it steady would only be temporary due to changes in flow over time).

Here are some videos of the tank running today.

First video is with the settings left from yesterday. Had to redo the valve because it was going crazy in the back and shooting bubbles everywhere in the sump.

Second video is cranking up the return a bit more to increase flow for the RFG, and also loosening the gate valve a bit to account for the increased flow:

Third video is after tightening the valve just enough to make it overflow the E-pipe, which is where I have it at right now. After turning it off and on a few times, it looks like it is running relatively stably. It goes up quickly while the standpipe is still gurgling and then initially dumps a lot of water into the E-pipe until the standpipe stops gurgling and presumably forms a siphon. Then it goes back to just trickling over the top for now.
ok the 2nd drain pipe (in the center without the filter piece on it) seems a wee bit too tall to me. Is that the 2nd or the emergency pipe?
edit nevermind. it is the emergency drain. so the third hole in the overflow you have plugged. any chance you can turn that into a secondary drain? have 100% flow through your primary 50% through the secondary and none through the emergency?
 
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JoJosReef

JoJosReef

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ok the 2nd drain pipe (in the center without the filter piece on it) seems a wee bit too tall to me. Is that the 2nd or the emergency pipe?
edit nevermind. it is the emergency drain. so the third hole in the overflow you have plugged. any chance you can turn that into a secondary drain? have 100% flow through your primary 50% through the secondary and none through the emergency?
That's an option, but not one I think I can tackle right now. It came "bean animal ready", but it doesn't have the holes in the stand to slide another pipe through, so I'd have to cut the stand... And I'm no wood worker :-/
 
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JoJosReef

JoJosReef

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Floating today's haul!!
bff6fce8-c3bc-4246-a98e-3276db7bd428.jpg
 

Reefering1

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Sorry so slow to offer my opinion Jojo. I see nothing to panic about. Might seem wrong, but I think everything is normal. When 1st started, the water level in overflow rises and makes alot of noise(sucking in air) until it achieves full siphon. Then it will flow much more water without the air. If it sucks down to fast and breaks siphon, you turn up the return pump or start closing drain valve to slow it down a little. A little through the emergency drain is fine. Then it gets quiet as it stops stucking in air(causing the microbubbles).
If this were mine, I would...(in order)
-Move return outlet(s) up about a 1.25". As close to the surface as possible without it causing bubbles. This will reduce backflow to sump on shutdown.
-open the drain valve all the way.
-crank up the return pump(not sure where you're at now-try 80%)
-start it up, watching overflow level. It should rise(and be loud) then start dropping as it gets into full sipon. If it sucks down too fast and breaks siphon(starts stucking air again) , turn up the pump. If the return pump is already too high(or where you want it- start closing drain valve until water level stays steady(giving some time between adjustments). It should now be quiet and not too throttled down for the rfgs.
-Shut it down, raise a return outlet until it breaks siphon. Ideally, The water level in display will not go below overflow weir. Note sump water level.
-start it back up. If it's slow to go full siphon, increase return pump a little(or close valve more). Adjust the return outlet, if it's causing bubbles. Imagine it right at the surface while it's running, sticking out the water when shut down and water level at wier. I'd like to see 3 or 4" of water above return pump, helps with bubbles.
I don't think you have a problem at all, just being over cautious. Hope this is helpful. :)
 

tbrown

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And here's my optical sensors - not sure on the float sensor but it should be basically the same?

(Yours will NOT say alert when dry because yours is checking when full, not empty).
 
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JoJosReef

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@JoJosReef did you see this? These are my Rope settings. Takes about 3 drops of water to activate.
Haven't gotten to yours yet, Tim! I'll be back to checking Hydros tomorrow, probably. Although on topic... My float switch doesn't float ..
PXL_20250204_204035102.MP.jpg
 

tbrown

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Mine's currently setup with an aftermarket plug - I have the Hydros just haven't set up the drive ports yet

1000006433.png

You want yours to say "Active when input 1" "Dry" and the Input/Dependency to probably "Off".

Yours will likely work differently than mine since mine is meant to turn off the ATO when the ATO reservoir is dry rather than turn on the pump when it's wet. Yours will be ATO instead of Generic.
 

tbrown

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I'm planning on setting mine up this weekend so I'll post pics of my settings when it's done so we can compare to what yours shows if you're still having issues.
 

Fish Styx

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I am going to need to start my gfo back up when I get home. The lanthium will bind it but I think it just ends up back in the column eventually.
Instead of GFO, have you considered granulated aluminum oxide (GAO)? I made the switch about a year ago and it, IMO, works way better.
 

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