Kessil 360 WE burnt by wrong power supply?

daniel16reefer

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Hi all, I have a quick question regarding a used Kessil 360 WE. I bought it from a respectable member of local reefers so I did not test it with him prior to purchase. When I hooked it up at home and no light. When I checked and found out that he provided me with a 24V power supply and the Kessil needs a 19V. I bought a replacement 19V and still no light. Would the 5V difference enough to burn the light OR it's dead prior to my trying to turn it on? At this point is there any chance to salvage the light or it's a goner now? TIA
 

_AV

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There are probably other issues with the light. 24v probably didn't kill it.
It's probably repairable.
 
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daniel16reefer

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Thank you for the quick reply. I’ll waiting to hear from the seller ok his resolution. If not, I’ll open it up and see what’s going on.
 
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daniel16reefer

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Have you seen a bad power cable on Kessil? I opened it up and see nothing obvious bad. I felt around with the fingers like your video with no area of warm or hot. I took the voltage meter and firstly I check the power coming in. I saw no voltage at all at where the wires attached to the board. I did remove some of the coating to expose bare metal with 0V reading.

I’m thinking of cutting the power adapter wire to check that but want to see if that’s a reasonable approach.
 

_AV

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Bad cable is unlikely. You have a power supply, with internal protection again shorts, which shuts it down if there is one. You likely have a short somewhere in that light.
 

Fish Fan

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I'm not calming to be an expert here, but with anything electronic, it's not so much the volts as it is the amps. Your light that works on 19v should be fine. It draws the amperage (power) it needs, and nothing more. So your power supply is not sending more "volts" to your light than needed, even though it's rated as larger for voltage. If you connected your light to a 24v DC power supply, with typical amperage, you should be fine.

I recently tried to fire up two old Kessil a360we's that I've had for a little while. I had a really hard time getting the 3.5mm stereo cable to connect well. Long story short, just "wiggling" those 3.5mm connectors helped me. Maybe it was the age of my lights, but I had to simply adjust (read: wiggle) my 3.5mm cable connectors until I had a good connection, and then the lights worked well with my controller (Robo-Tank). If you have a used light, consider "wiggling" your 3.5mm connectors :)

As always, good luck!
 

VintageReefer

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I'm not calming to be an expert here, but with anything electronic, it's not so much the volts as it is the amps. Your light that works on 19v should be fine. It draws the amperage (power) it needs, and nothing more. So your power supply is not sending more "volts" to your light than needed, even though it's rated as larger for voltage. If you connected your light to a 24v DC power supply, with typical amperage, you should be fine.

I recently tried to fire up two old Kessil a360we's that I've had for a little while. I had a really hard time getting the 3.5mm stereo cable to connect well. Long story short, just "wiggling" those 3.5mm connectors helped me. Maybe it was the age of my lights, but I had to simply adjust (read: wiggle) my 3.5mm cable connectors until I had a good connection, and then the lights worked well with my controller (Robo-Tank). If you have a used light, consider "wiggling" your 3.5mm connectors :)

As always, good luck!
I do not believe this to be correct.

The power supply puts out a constant voltage. The amps are drawn as needed by the device

When replacing a power supply you need to match the volts, and have at least the number of amps as the device calls for.

More amps in the supply is ok, The device will draw what it needs. But the volts need to be a match

Supplying more volts, or less volts, will overdrive or under drive the electronics.
 

Fish Fan

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I do not believe this to be correct.

The power supply puts out a constant voltage. The amps are drawn as needed by the device

When replacing a power supply you need to match the volts, and have at least the number of amps as the device calls for.

More amps in the supply is ok, The device will draw what it needs. But the volts need to be a match

Supplying more volts, or less volts, will overdrive or under drive the electronics.
VR, I love you, but no sir!

Amps are the power, and devices "pull" the power they need in amps, and nothing more. Voltage is not "pushed".

I'm fairly confident in this, but I would welcome anyone to correct me so we are all getting correct advice :)
 

VintageReefer

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VR, I love you, but no sir!

Amps are the power, and devices "pull" the power they need in amps, and nothing more. Voltage is not "pushed".

I'm fairly confident in this, but I would welcome anyone to correct me so we are all getting correct advice :)
take a 12v motor and connect a 24v power supply and see what happens :)
 

Fish Fan

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I double checked. Volts needs to match. It’s ok for the supply to have more amps than needed
6EBCC999-A10B-4A4C-9A35-60BDCCBEAC22.jpeg
Friend, I don't think that's true, but I am not an electrical engineer. I believe the manufacturer is protecting themselves for obvious reasons. You can absolutely connect a 2amp device to a 5amp power supply, and nothing bad will happen. It's all about the amperage, not the voltage, I believe.
 

VintageReefer

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VR, I love you, but no sir!

Amps are the power, and devices "pull" the power they need in amps, and nothing more. Voltage is not "pushed".

I'm fairly confident in this, but I would welcome anyone to correct me so we are all getting correct advice :)
Sorry, 15 year engineer and dc power / battery backup enthusiast here :)


I just converted my tanks return pump to run off usb 3.0 powered by my LiFePO4 power station. 50+ Hours on battery in an outage !

Anyone else here have a return pump powered by usb? Probably very very few :)

You are partially correct but applying the concept of Amps to volts. Volts will flow. Amps are pulled
 

VintageReefer

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Friend, I don't think that's true, but I am not an electrical engineer. I believe the manufacturer is protecting themselves for obvious reasons. You can absolutely connect a 2amp device to a 5amp power supply, and nothing bad will happen. It's all about the amperage, not the voltage, I believe.
Yes that is correct but the volts needs to match or be within a realm of tolerance. Some devices accept a small range of voltages and others dont

Should always match volts. And have equal or greater Amps
 

Fish Fan

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Sorry, 15 year engineer and dc power / battery backup enthusiast here :)


I just converted my tanks return pump to run off usb 3.0 powered by my LiFePO4 power station. 50+ Hours on battery in an outage !

Anyone else here have a return pump powered by usb? Probably very very few :)

You are partially correct but applying the concept of Amps to volts. Volts will flow. Amps are pulled
My friend, I would never argue with you!

My multimeter just died, but when I pull my camper out of the deep freeze these next two moths, I'm going to be needing a new multimeter. Do you have a suggestion?
 

Fish Fan

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@VintageReefer As always, thank you for your help! I don't mean to argue :)
 

VintageReefer

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Friend, I don't think that's true, but I am not an electrical engineer. I believe the manufacturer is protecting themselves for obvious reasons. You can absolutely connect a 2amp device to a 5amp power supply, and nothing bad will happen. It's all about the amperage, not the voltage, I believe.
A14BBC62-DFD3-4B36-BAC9-B5030367D6AA.jpeg


ED97F374-0B97-48E1-8463-650F4829CD1B.jpeg
 

VintageReefer

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My friend, I would never argue with you!

My multimeter just died, but when I pull my camper out of the deep freeze these next two moths, I'm going to be needing a new multimeter. Do you have a suggestion?
I like this one because it’s auto ranging and when you pick a mode, it illuminates what jacks to connect the leads to so you don’t blow a fuss

 

Fish Fan

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I like this one because it’s auto ranging and when you pick a mode, it illuminates what jacks to connect the leads to so you don’t blow a fuss

Thank you for that!

I really did lose my Fluke multimeter that I had for some years :-( Would you recommend one in replacement?

I am trying a Reef-Pi/Robo tank build currently, and I could use some help as well as a new multimeter :)

Thank you friend!
 
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daniel16reefer

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Thanks all. I learnt a lot today.

And updated, I was able to fix the light and the cause was actually the plug cable.

Measures the voltage it near 0 (0.5-0.7) fluctuating at where the wire welded to the board. I measure the resistance, it’s around 9K ohm there. I measured the resistance at the plug and it’s unmeasurable. I took a bold move and pulled the plug out. To my surprise, it came out fairly easy and I found that the white central wire was twisted badly. My guess it that the positive post of the plug was held tight, may be wrong adapter, and twisted multiple times, and snapped off inside the plug. I reconnected the wires to a donor plug and it worked flawlessly.

I was lucky.

I wanted to share the experience in case someone has similar issues.
 


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