I‘m just asking for this one screenshot so see the graphic (difference) …
Because there’s more white LEDs than Blues. AB+ is by default what the Blues are tuned to with their LED count (all LEDs on full); with Pros you’re running Blues all the way up with less white and there’s less blue LEDs to begin with.
Blues would fair better with 1500g SPS as it’s heavy blue - more blue than AB+. The 1500g SPS schedule has even all my whites turned off.
If those are blues and every channel is on 100% (which is what AB+ on blues are) then you just set the point intensity where you want the PAR to be. Schedule intensity just shifts the whole graph down for ease of adjusting, but each individual point in the schedule has an intensity separate for the color chosen.
If those are blues and every channel is on 100% (which is what AB+ on blues are) then you just set the point intensity where you want the PAR to be. Schedule intensity just shifts the whole graph down for ease of adjusting, but each individual point in the schedule has an intensity separate for the color chosen.
For example here’s my graph because I run 50% because any higher is too much PAR. But notice all channels are on 100%. I can run overall point intensity at 100% if I choose to, but you need more fixtures if you need to run 100% to achieve your PAR goals.
Simplest recommendation - if you’re going to run a more blue heavy schedule get the Blues, and if you’re going to run a more white spectrum get the Pros.
Let me say… i have allready buy 4 pieces of xr30 pro. Since i had them running, it feels like the corals love the blue…
You’re making this way harder than it needs to be. Just load the profile you want to use, and use a PAR meter to adjust point intensity to where you are making the PAR you have as your goals. It’s the only way. Trying to gauge based on other’s setups will not work. You can do it the old school method and keep slowly increasing the intensity over time until corals start bleaching and then reduce them,
Sorry, I think you misunderstood me. I have an Apogee mq 510. I also have no problem setting par values. I also don't need other people's setups... I wanted to see a screenshot of the blue version and see how much better the lamp performs with the ab+. Compared to the "pro" version. super simple, but is completely misinterpreted here.
the Blues will have all channels at 100% while the Pros will have all the blues at 100% and the whites and other channels turned down.
If you're going to run the same schedules, it's not going to look different, just more PAR from one type than the other, unless you're planning on just running every unit at 100% on all channels. If you already have T5s as supplemental lighting, you won't see color differences either way. I think you should sell the Pros and buy the Blues since it seems you think the Pros are too white anyways.
The Pro’s are perfect to my eye at 25-30% whites. The blues are too blue. That’s why I want to mix. Then I have the ability with the 3 current pros to go up or down with whites and run the new additional blues at 100% to get the extra par. Now I’m just trying to decide on 2 XR15 blues or 2 XR30 blues between the current 3 XR30 pros.
The Blues at 100% are basically the Pros with whites at around 30-40% or so, just with more PAR since there's more blues.
That’s not the experience I had at all with the G6. When my XR30s initially shipped, they accidentally shipped a blue with my pros. I compared both and the blue at 100 on all channels could not get even close as white as the Pros at 25% whites.
