That would be great. I can try to disassemble and open up some of the modules if it helps.No idea. But I think we may be able to hack some of those component at least. The power bar should be reusable
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That would be great. I can try to disassemble and open up some of the modules if it helps.No idea. But I think we may be able to hack some of those component at least. The power bar should be reusable
Well, if its not being used, then does it make sense to keep the electronics/software parts? If I had something like that, I'll just rip all of it out (fancy electronics/mcu etc), and salvage what I can, like the outlets, relays etc and note down what voltage the relay requires and reuse the connectors to control them directly.I know there is software that lies within the power bar itself. It's more than just a relayed bar. Through the head units it can be programmed to default a channel on or off if the head u it is removed. These firmwares were periodically updated. It is signaled along a 6 wire rj11 buss. I'm not quite ready to open one of mine up.
If you are up for it, do it. I am not an expert, but happy to advice as and when neededThat would be great. I can try to disassemble and open up some of the modules if it helps.
These things will probably start popping up everywhere for sale in the near future. there are thousands of them out there and apparently the head unit is what dies first .Well, if its not being used, then does it make sense to keep the electronics/software parts? If I had something like that, I'll just rip all of it out (fancy electronics/mcu etc), and salvage what I can, like the outlets, relays etc and note down what voltage the relay requires and reuse the connectors to control them directly.
Whoa, glad to see you back in action with the pico board.Finally got a few cycles to start validating the "pico" original board I had made up almost 6+ months ago. Welp, how time flies with projects. It doesn't even use the new fancy logo
There are a few changes already required out of the box:
- The load switch fail-safe turned off the load switch. Instead of on. So its hard to power up the board without any power controller firmware. I simply bypassed it.
- Now I'm debugging the I2C bus which is held low by something. Going to hunt the various controllers on the board to see what is messed up, since a number of devices are attached to the bus (microcontroller, repeater, the isolator for the I2C circuit). This means the hardware RTC doesn't work right now.
Going to work on the other inputs and outputs next!
I don't mind opening things up. I am not an expert either and I don't know anything about electronic or programming. I am just trying to salvage what I have.If you are up for it, do it. I am not an expert, but happy to advice as and when needed
Whoa, glad to see you back in action with the pico board.
We are also now recommending using the american dj SR - P8 power strip, which uses 12V relays with DB9 connector. (Common 12V+ve, and 8 pins that connect to ULN2803, as sink current(
For those who are following the thread, I have updated read me with with bill of material of a reef-pi build, specifically targeted for pico reef tanks, the ones I put on display for the maker faire.
Now that I have the BoM, housing concrete, I'll write down an assembly guide tonight.
Meanwhile, on the software side, I am in process of merging the adafruit.io integration, i.e reef-pi will be able to send data (temperature, ph etc) to adafruit.io, where you can build graph. I have a rough draft of PID controller also, hopefully we'll be able to use it to build temperature controller (heater failure is one of the most common reason for tank failure), all of these will go in the next pre-release,
I don't think opening it up will help much, but I'd be interested in pictures if you do. What we really need to know is the protocol. Once I fully move my heaters off the RKL, I plan to hook up a logic analyzer to mine.I don't mind opening things up. I am not an expert either and I don't know anything about electronic or programming. I am just trying to salvage what I have.
I also want to be able to expand the system instead of being stucks with discontinued items.
The information is scattered in a number of places and I don't think I found one that had all the info in 1 place. Every build is unique to the builder with regards to the needs of the specific tank setup. Adafruit.com I think is where a good portion of the latest info is. Try https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-installation-and-configuration and look through all the tabs to the left of the page.I just started reading thru your great thread and not sure if there is another link for the "bill of material". The one above does not work.
Would you have a link to your build guide?
Thank you
See if these guides help: https://learn.adafruit.com/users/ranjib , follow them in orderI just started reading thru your great thread and not sure if there is another link for the "bill of material". The one above does not work.
Would you have a link to your build guide?
Thank you
I don't think opening it up will help much, but I'd be interested in pictures if you do. What we really need to know is the protocol. Once I fully move my heaters off the RKL, I plan to hook up a logic analyzer to mine.
This isn't a big deal. You can use a simple RC integrator circuit to turn the pwm into analog (aka low pass filter). Put a resistor on the output with a capacitor to ground. I used this technique to control Mars Aqua lights. I can help with specific values this evening.Guys,
I did some digging and talking to some folks in the know, and I was TOTALLY wrong about he WP versions at least of the Jeboa wavemakers. They are not pwm. They use 0-5V analog signal. so I am not sure that the PCA9685 will work for this exact application.
I did find this digging around. Think it may work instead?
https://shop.controleverything.com/products/ad5669-16-bit-8-channel-digital-to-analog-converter
Thanks Michael. I am looking in to see how finicky these pumps are. I heard that it may not matter at all. I need to get the board installed and see if I can make the light program operate a spare unit I have.This isn't a big deal. You can use a simple RC integrator circuit to turn the pwm into analog (aka low pass filter). Put a resistor on the output with a capacitor to ground. I used this technique to control Mars Aqua lights. I can help with specific values this evening.
Guys,
I did some digging and talking to some folks in the know, and I was TOTALLY wrong about he WP versions at least of the Jeboa wavemakers. They are not pwm. They use 0-5V analog signal. so I am not sure that the PCA9685 will work for this exact application.
I did find this digging around. Think it may work instead?
https://shop.controleverything.com/products/ad5669-16-bit-8-channel-digital-to-analog-converter
This isn't a big deal. You can use a simple RC integrator circuit to turn the pwm into analog (aka low pass filter). Put a resistor on the output with a capacitor to ground. I used this technique to control Mars Aqua lights. I can help with specific values this evening.
Following along. I have 2 Jebao PP 8 that i would love to control from Pi.Thanks Michael. I am looking in to see how finicky these pumps are. I heard that it may not matter at all. I need to get the board installed and see if I can make the light program operate a spare unit I have.