I started my first saltwater tank in January. Coming from freshwater aquarium-keeping, I decided to take on new challenge. So, Waterbox AIO seemed to be an optimal size as 36-inch was a perfect length and AIO is considered a quieter option to having a sump (the tank is in a master bedroom and low noise levels are very high priority).
Here is what led to my initial failure:
- Started with dry rock and practically dry sand
- After reading about importance of refugium for the export of nutrients, I decided to add Chaeto to one of AIO chambers after nitrate levels reached 10. The refugium worked very well and Chaeto grew very fast, which made me happy at first...
- I didn't use QT back then and introduced a royal gramma with some sort of disease that killed 4 out of my 6 fish within 2 weeks around the same time Chaeto was added into the refugium. I started to feed less with only two clowns alive in my tank and my nitrates went to zero much faster than I expected.
- When I first saw brown dusting on my sand and rock, I mistook it for diatoms and thought it was a normal part of ugly phase and would disappear in a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, those were SCA.
I dosed silicates for two months without any decrease in dino presence and realized that it might be easier to re-start my tank completely than to continue fighting.
I decided to start with real live rock first and KP Aquatics was my first-choice supplier. After contacting them about pick-up options (I live in South Florida), they even offered to meet me along their route to an airport where they bring their orders. However, just several days later, I stumbled upon a BRSTV video from Reeafpalooza New York called "Want an Easy, Epic Tank? The 9 Core Reefing Principles | PT 2 Perfect Is the Enemy of Great" where Ryan talked about advantages of using real live sand. That changed my mind and, after doing some additional research, my new plan was developed, which consisted of the following:
- Use Marco rock for aquascape
- Use Tampa Bay Saltwater Ultra Live Sand for biome cycling
- Ambient lights for first 4 weeks
- All fish I purchase must go through newly set QT.
Let's see if my plan works...
Here is what led to my initial failure:
- Started with dry rock and practically dry sand
- After reading about importance of refugium for the export of nutrients, I decided to add Chaeto to one of AIO chambers after nitrate levels reached 10. The refugium worked very well and Chaeto grew very fast, which made me happy at first...
- I didn't use QT back then and introduced a royal gramma with some sort of disease that killed 4 out of my 6 fish within 2 weeks around the same time Chaeto was added into the refugium. I started to feed less with only two clowns alive in my tank and my nitrates went to zero much faster than I expected.
- When I first saw brown dusting on my sand and rock, I mistook it for diatoms and thought it was a normal part of ugly phase and would disappear in a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, those were SCA.
I dosed silicates for two months without any decrease in dino presence and realized that it might be easier to re-start my tank completely than to continue fighting.
I decided to start with real live rock first and KP Aquatics was my first-choice supplier. After contacting them about pick-up options (I live in South Florida), they even offered to meet me along their route to an airport where they bring their orders. However, just several days later, I stumbled upon a BRSTV video from Reeafpalooza New York called "Want an Easy, Epic Tank? The 9 Core Reefing Principles | PT 2 Perfect Is the Enemy of Great" where Ryan talked about advantages of using real live sand. That changed my mind and, after doing some additional research, my new plan was developed, which consisted of the following:
- Use Marco rock for aquascape
- Use Tampa Bay Saltwater Ultra Live Sand for biome cycling
- Ambient lights for first 4 weeks
- All fish I purchase must go through newly set QT.
Let's see if my plan works...