some common pests and cures....

Troylee

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I've heard several horror stories over the last few weeks of people buying tanks on craigslist and trading corals with others and receiving some nasty pests. So maybe this will help a little and please ad anything you feel may help out also. This hobby is expensive enough without loosing several corals to bugs. DIP YOUR CORALS!

Over the past decade, the marine aquarium hobby has enjoyed advancements in both technology and information regarding the captive care of live coral. As a result, many organizations and hobbyists have begun fragmenting and producing corals that are offered for sale in the marketplace, and traded among hobbyists. These corals, commonly referred to as "Frags," include a large number of SPS (Small Polyp Stony corals), LPS (Large Polyp Stony Corals), Soft Corals, Zoanthus Polyps and Mushrooms.
These species normally adapt very well to a captive environment, but unfortunately numerous pests and parasites have also reared their presence in home aquariums across the country. With the practice of swapping coral frags among hobbyists, club members, and the aquaculture facilities themselves, the presence of these pests in the US is increasing at an alarming rate.

Here's what every hobbyist needs to know about the identification and prevention of common "frag" who are pests finding their way into home reef aquariums

Acropora Red Bugs

redbugs.jpg


Identification
One of the most recent "pests" that has now become prevalent is a very small crustacean that looks like a mite and appears to prefer most species of Acropora corals. This crustacean is yellow in color with a red dot, approximately 1/2 mm in length, and is very difficult to see without a magnifying glass. It has been theorized that red bugs are either a parasitic form of copepod or micro-amphipod, though very little research has been done and their true identification is not complete at this time.

Symptoms & Signs
It has been speculated that the crustacean feeds off of the slime and waste products produced by the Acroporas. If you have an established colony of Acropora sp. that begins losing coloration and stops showing normal polyp extension, take a closer look at the tissue of the coral for any small yellowish/red specks. It is oftentimes easiest to distinguish these pests on the shadowed underside of a branch. An infected colony of Acropora will typically show poor or no polyp extension, and will slowly lose coloration over time. As a result of this infestation, it has been found that the growth rate of the colony is seriously affected, and may even result in death to the coral itself.

It is not clear why these bugs prefer certain species of Acropora over others, nor is it clear why they are not found on other SPS corals such as Montipora, Pocillopora, or Seriatopora.

Treatment
Several methods of treatment - from introducing natural predators to medications - have been tested with various levels of success. Interceptor seems to be the prefered medication and best treatment for red bugs.


DIP ALL CORALS!!

Coral-Eating Nudibranch

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Identification
Several species of nudibranch which feed upon Soft Corals like Sarcophyton sp. Leather corals, Xenia sp, Zoanthus sp., and Palythoa sp. polyps have made their way into the industry over the years. Most of the soft-coral-eating-nudibranchs can reach a size of 2 cm when full grown, and are best seen after the lights have been off on the aquarium for several hours. They often mimic the appearance of the coral they are preying upon, making them difficult to spot. Soft coral eating nudibranchs will slowly consume these corals causing bare spots or discoloration on some or all of the corals tissue.

A more recent nudibranch pest that affects SPS coral aquariums has recently become prevalent, and prefers to consume corals of the genus Montipora and Anacropora. These nudibranch are very small, attaining a maximum size only up to half of a centimeter, are pale white to tan in color, and have many branch-like appendages along their back. They are very damaging pests in a reef aquarium that can multiply and consume corals in a very short period of time.

Symptoms & Signs
Corals that become infected with these pests will begin to show white spots where the nudibranch have eaten away the tissue of the coral. The most vulnerable seem to be Montipora capricornis, also known as vase corals, as well as Montipora digitata, the branching form. Many times the nudibranch will begin feeding on the underside of the coral, and it will not become apparent to the hobbyist that the coral is being damaged until it can be seen in plain view on the top of the colony.

Treatment
Controlling outbreaks of these pests is difficult, and several different techniques are being experimented with. Removal of these pest is often performed manually with tweezers.

DIP ALL CORALS!!

The problem that exists with chemical dips is that it will only kill the nudibranchs that are on the colony and the rock that the coral is attached to when treated. This nudibranch has been found to lay eggs within the rockwork of the aquarium, as well as on other coral colonies. Therefore, just treating the colony and its associated rock will not solve the problem. One answer to this is to remove all colonies of Montipora and Anacropora to a separate containment system for a few months, and to repeatedly treat the corals and its associated rock with an iodine dip. This will ensure that the nudibranch within the display aquarium are eradicated due to starvation. Also, you will be able to monitor the health of the infected colonies with greater ease in the smaller system.

Flatworms

flatworms.jpg


Identification
While Flatworms, also known as Planaria, can become a problem in just about any saltwater aquarium; the aquaculture industry has encountered two distinct types of flatworms that are now fairly common in the United States.

Rust Brown Flatworm
The first and most common type of flatworm can become a nuisance quickly in the home aquarium. These organisms are tan, brown or rust colored with a red dot, and reach a size of up to 1/4" in length. They are oval and slightly elongated with two tail-like appendages at their posterior. This brown flatworm has been identified as Convolutriloba retrogemma, and will proliferate rapidly in aquariums with elevated nutrient levels. The populations of these pests can increase to a point where they will actually perch on corals, and block the light from reaching the corals' tissue. Some experts believe that the flatworms actually feed on the zooxanthellae from coral tissue, thus damaging the corals themselves.

The Acropora Flatworm is starting to become prevalent in the United States, and has been recognized in Germany for the last few years. This unidentified species is a more aggressive species of flatworm that consumes the actual tissue of Acropora sp. corals at a rapid rate. This flatworm is white to opaque in color, and is mostly oval in shape, making them very difficult to notice in the display aquarium. They seem to prefer species of Acropora that have shorter polyps, and are most commonly found on Staghorn types and Tricolor species. This flatworm is very invasive, and immediate action should be taken if noticed in your aquarium

Symptoms & Signs
The Rust Brown Flatworm can be seen on top of corals, and normally in areas of low flow in the reef aquarium. The Acropora-Eating Flatworm can be recognized by the rapid tissue loss in certain colonies of Acropora, and their presence will be known by the gold to brown egg masses that they leave behind on the bare coral skeletons.
 
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Troylee

Troylee

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Treatment
The best way of controlling flatworms is by prevention. Maintaining low nutrient levels in the aquarium with the use of carbon and aggressive protein skimming, along with increased water flow will help to reduce the populations of these pests. Proper quarantine of new specimens, and all aquatic life before they are placed in the display aquarium will keep the initial introduction of flatworms to a minimum

DIP YOUR CORALS

Pyramid Snails

pyramidsnails.jpg


Identification
Pyramid Snails, or Pyrams are very small snails that belong to the Pyramidellidae family. They are generally white in color, have a slender shell that tapers to a point, and do not grow larger than a few millimeters. The Pyramid Snails use their long proboscis, which is a tube-like mouth, to puncture the mantle of a Tridacna Clam in order to feed upon the fluids and zooxanthellae cells contained within. A few snails will typically not pose a threat to a healthy Tridacna Clam. The snails reproduce every 90-120 days, and if left to multiply, can cause serious harm or even death to their host in a very short period of time.

Signs & Symptoms
Evidence of an inflicted clam can be noticed by poor expansion and loss of color within the mantle. The Pyramid Snails feed mostly during the nighttime hours. During the daytime, they will remain either at the base of the clam, or within the scutes of the shell, where they are difficult to spot. It is best to inspect an ailing clam with a flashlight a few hours after the lights have turned off on the aquarium. The small snails will line up at the top of the shell just below the clam's mantle.

Treatment
If you discover these snails, it is best to remove the clam to a separate container of aquarium water. Once out of the aquarium, you can physically remove the adult snails, and brush the entire shell with a new toothbrush in order to remove any eggs.

Box Snails

Identification
A snail that is regularly encountered in the aquaculture and aquarium industry is commonly referred to as a Box or Sundial Snail of the genus Heliacus. They have a classic shaped shell that is round at the base and twists upward into a point. Tan and brown colorations alternate within the striations of the shell, giving it a rather beautiful appearance.

Signs & Symptoms
The Box Snails are guilty of consuming many different types of colony polyps within the Zoanthus, Palythoa and Protopalythoa genus. Many times the snail will be found within the colony itself, where they puncture the base of the polyp, and feed upon its tissue and fluids. The polyp is then basically left as an empty shell, which quickly falls off of the rock and decomposes.

Treatment
The best method for controlling the populations of these snails is to physically remove them from the aquarium when discovered. These pests will not typically reproduce in a rapid manner, and physical removal should be sufficient.

DIP YOUR CORALS

Limpets

Several different genus and many species make up the snail-like invertebrate family, commonly known as limpets. Limpets have an oval, laterally compressed shell that tapers to an off-centered blunt point. Limpets have a tiny hole at the crest of their shell where it becomes a point, which they use for waste and water exchange. Many of these species have a very large mantle that extends around and covers the shell. In fact, some limpets can be very beautiful with amazing colors, and make a welcome guest in an aquarium that does not contain SPS corals.

The most common variety encountered in a reef aquarium is the Keyhole Limpet. They are a common import with live rock, and are typically colored in a mottled brown, black and tan pattern, and do not have a mantle that cover their shell. The Keyhole Limpets are typically half an inch long, or smaller, and feed on unwanted filamentous algae, cyanobacteria, diatoms and even hydroids. Unfortunately, in the SPS aquarium, they will also feed on the tissue of SPS corals.

As with many of the snail species, it is best to physically remove the limpet if you are unsure of its species and diet. Some limpet species are herbivores and are beneficial to even a reef aquarium. But even the herbivores can become harmful if there is not enough food for them in the aquarium. Limpets will typically not reproduce to any significant number in the aquarium, and physical removal is usually a sufficient control for the SPS coral aquarist.

How to Reduce the Chances of Infecting your Aquarium

The best remedy to these pests is by not introducing them into your aquarium, following proper quarantine procedures for all aquatic inhabitants, including corals, plants and invertebrates. Only purchase healthy specimens from a reputable vendor that is aware of these pests, and takes every precaution in order to not spread them to others. Your vendor should practice proper husbandry and quarantine procedures, keep a close eye on their holding systems, and should perform the appropriate treatments if the need arises. Ask your vendor what protocols they employ in keeping his system free of pests and pathogens.

Also when trading frags with a fellow hobbyist, do not take his word that his system is free and clean of pests. We cannot stress enough the importance of quarantining all new specimens until you are sure that the colony is free of any unwanted organisms and have adjusted to their new environment. This is also a great time to slowly acclimate your new arrivals to both the water conditions and the type of lighting that is used on your main system.

A reef aquarium offers us a unique ability to enjoy some of nature's most beautiful creatures in the comfort of our homes. Although mostly a relaxing hobby, there are times that it can become frustrating. The pests mentioned in this article can take the joy out of a reef aquarium making it a real burden. It is important to take preventive measures whenever adding new colonies to your display aquarium, as well as acting immediately if pests or parasites are ever noticed.

Please! Even if you get your corals from me, DIP THEM! There are several dips out there that work such as Iodine dips and Revive. I use both and find that they work very good.
 

Wy Renegade

Zs and Ps/PE collector
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Now that is what I call an information and educational post! Nicely done Lee!
 

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