The best heater/controller you can buy is actually pretty cheap

[Nano_Tuners]

For those who know: use one of these industrial temp controllers with a BRS heater core will give you hands down the most reliable/industrial heater/controller you can buy for an aquarium (FAR superior to a Helios or a similar build with consumer grade temp controllers). Just buy a piece of heat shrink wrap tubing and put it over the probe before submerging.

Usually an A421 runs about $130 but this homebrew company on eBay is selling them for like half price. And the plug relay means no wiring just plug in the heater core and program.

Now that I’ve purchased several for current and use I figure I’d let the rest of you know about it before they’re all gone

 

[MnFish1]

For those who know: use one of these industrial temp controllers with a BRS heater core will give you hands down the most reliable/industrial heater/controller you can buy for an aquarium (FAR superior to a Helios or a similar build with consumer grade temp controllers). Just buy a piece of heat shrink wrap tubing and put it over the probe before submerging.

Usually an A421 runs about $130 but this homebrew company on eBay is selling them for like half price. And the plug relay means no wiring just plug in the heater core and program.

Now that I’ve purchased several for current and use I figure I’d let the rest of you know about it before they’re all gone

Can I just ask - what are you basing your claims on? What size heaters are compatible with them? Thanks

 

[Nano_Tuners]

Can I just ask - what are you basing your claims on? What size heaters are compatible with them? Thanks

Think of it in the context of purchasing consumer goods

Consumer/Hobby grade > Prosumer Grade > Commercial/Industrial Grade

Corresponds to:

Cheaper components/less QC and low price > Upgraded components with better durability and QC and higher price > High end components and rock solid reliability, high QC and high price

The point of failure for most traditional aquarium heaters is the internal thermostat mechanism, which is a cheap (ancient) design that eventually will just break down due to repeated on/off cycling. A dedicated control mechanism with a dedicated heat core is a far superior method that replaces the (prob) .75 thermostat used in most heaters with an industrial thermostat that is trusted on equipment costing thousands +++ dollars.

Johnson and Ranco make industrial temp controllers that are used in industrial and commercial applications that have also been implemented in home/commercial aquariums/seafood/livestock tanks for decades. You could trust a Ranco controller in this function just the same, this one just happens to be much cheaper rn and doesn’t require wiring a plug/outlet setup (which would be a challenge if one’s unfamiliar with electrical/wiring).

The cheaper versions of temp controllers (won’t use names to avoid controversy) are basically entry level versions of these devices. They use entry level/consumer grade parts/sensors/materials which is why they are logically less sensitive reliable and accurate. Not that they’re terrible, it’s fair to expect that level of performance at a much cheaper price point. If I had a 200$ tank I would worry too much about a heater issue (vs trusting that consumer grade controller on a 5000$ tank)

You could swap the heater core with any heater core you prefer really, the brains of the device is all in the controller. A dedicated heater core isn’t switching an internal thermostat on or off, it’s just getting hot when energized with power. As long as they don’t crack apart/etc there’s really nothing to break on the actual heat core. I’ve found when reviewing people’s issues with the titanium German BRS cores have to deal with control issues and an inaccurate understanding of how these devices work - not the heater core itself malfunctioning (unless it just never powered on or the casing was cracked/etc). I’ve used prob a dozen BRS heater cores in various sizes for more than a decade and have found them rock solid.

Honestly idk what the max wattage is per outlet, one would have to research that (but I suspect it wouldn’t matter since it’s just engaging/disengaging a relay in the outlet which opens up power from the wall socket to energize the heater core

 

[Imrahilwjz]

This is better than a finnex with an inkbirb backup! Please explain why?

 

[VintageReefer]

This is better than a finnex with an inkbirb backup! Please explain why?

The logic is Johnson controls makes industrial grade parts that are higher quality/longer lifespan than the hobby grade stuff we typically buy

You would connect your finnex heat element to this instead of an inkbird

 

[Nano_Tuners]

This is better than a finnex with an inkbirb backup! Please explain why?

I might’ve been writing the reply before yours when you commented, see that one for a full explanation

 

[Nano_Tuners]

The logic is Johnson controls makes industrial grade parts that are higher quality/longer lifespan than the hobby grade stuff we typically buy

You would connect your finnex heat element to this instead of an inkbird

Simply put this is exactly the point

 

[Imrahilwjz]

Simply put this is exactly the point

I just bought an Inkbird. It didn't cost $80. If the controller you are discussing is better but more expensive, I get it. I'm wiling to pay for quality. I thought you said it was also much cheaper.

 

[klc]

Inkbirds obviously work, lots of reefers use them. The wifi connected Inkbirds will even send an alert if the temp is out of range, a good feature for sure. I'm unsure what method of powering a heater on and off an Inkbird uses, whether it is IC controlled or if it uses a mechanical relay.

I've never used the temp controller the OP is linking to, but I have used/still use Ranco temp controllers for my tanks. Rancos use a mechanical relay and are rated for about 800 watts IIRC. The units themselves are quite robust but the weak link is definitely the temp probe. You have to put heat shrink over the probe to make it safe to use in saltwater, but they still fail, just in general and not necessarily due to being in saltwater. I recently took possession of a few older units and tried to use them but I kept getting a sensor error code on the display. These were already 10 years old so I discarded them and bought new ones. I suppose I could have just purchased new temp probes but due to their age I just bought new ones. Like an Inkbird, you can get dual stage units that will control heating and cooling. My only gripe is the temp resolution is only displayed to the degree, not to the tenth. And not that that matters anyways it is just something I don't like about them. My Arctica chiller displays to the tenth so all is good in that respect lol.

I will never use a heater without a controller. They're good until they're not!