Tired of AC bricks? Try the DCBuddy

[TheStrangler]

Following this projected closely. I'd order one now but with the speed at which you're making updates and revisions I'll hold off just a little while. Great project, can't wait to see the battery backup integration as well.

 

[JoJosReef]

Halfway through your thread, which is a challenge for me, but very impressed. I'd like to try this for my cable management and some control.

Questions from the ignorant:

1. For LEDs, I understand they can be used if <3amp draw, correct? Would I be able to plug in 4 Noopsyche Minis?

The next level up would be Noopsyche K7 Pros. I understand that these won't work. Correct?

And then this is what I have for the Kessil A160we, which doesn't show amps

2. With regards to the DC Buddy vs. DC Buddy Split. Am I understanding correctly that you need the Split to be able to plug in devices like ATOs or Fans? They can't be plugged into the 24V slots?

3. If I get the 32V power supply, does that mean that all ports are going to be 32V? And that I won't be able to plug in 24V devices? Or will any device up to 32V work? I am asking this because I have one Mp40 and then the 4 Noopsyche Minis I would like to consolidate, and potentially a Kessil A160we and a Current USA 1900 return pump.

Thanks for helping an electrically challenged guy!

 

[theatrus]

3. If I get the 32V power supply, does that mean that all ports are going to be 32V? And that I won't be able to plug in 24V devices? Or will any device up to 32V work? I am asking this because I have one Mp40 and then the 4 Noopsyche Minis I would like to consolidate, and potentially a Kessil A160we and a Current USA 1900 return pump.

Yes, all ports will share the voltage on the regular DCBuddy.
On the /Split, the last three ports will always be 12V.

2. With regards to the DC Buddy vs. DC Buddy Split. Am I understanding correctly that you need the Split to be able to plug in devices like ATOs or Fans? They can't be plugged into the 24V slots?

If they're 12V fans and ATOs. Most computer fans are 12V, and many ATOs are also 12V, but not all. If you have some pictures of the power adapters for your equipment (or links), we can check

1. For LEDs, I understand they can be used if <3amp draw, correct? Would I be able to plug in 4 Noopsyche Minis?

Correct on the current draw. However, 4x Noopsyche Minis at 2.5A each will also max out the max current of the device, so I wouldn't suggest that operation.

I'm still working on an HD version which is more suitable for lights. I would recommend the standard DCBuddy and /Split for most pumps and accessory equipment, and not lights.

 

[JoJosReef]

Yes, all ports will share the voltage on the regular DCBuddy.
On the /Split, the last three ports will always be 12V.



If they're 12V fans and ATOs. Most computer fans are 12V, and many ATOs are also 12V, but not all. If you have some pictures of the power adapters for your equipment (or links), we can check



Correct on the current draw. However, 4x Noopsyche Minis at 2.5A each will also max out the max current of the device, so I wouldn't suggest that operation.

I'm still working on an HD version which is more suitable for lights. I would recommend the standard DCBuddy and /Split for most pumps and accessory equipment, and not lights.

Sounds like I should wait for the HD version since I only have 2 non-LED devices with bricks: Mp40 and eFLUX return. Thanks for answering all of my questions. I'm sorry about the clam--was a magnificent derasa.

 

[JoJosReef]

Yes, all ports will share the voltage on the regular DCBuddy.
On the /Split, the last three ports will always be 12V.



If they're 12V fans and ATOs. Most computer fans are 12V, and many ATOs are also 12V, but not all. If you have some pictures of the power adapters for your equipment (or links), we can check



Correct on the current draw. However, 4x Noopsyche Minis at 2.5A each will also max out the max current of the device, so I wouldn't suggest that operation.

I'm still working on an HD version which is more suitable for lights. I would recommend the standard DCBuddy and /Split for most pumps and accessory equipment, and not lights.

Sorry to answer your questions. For ATO, I am actually switching to a 9g gravity, so no electronics. For fan(s), not yet settled on one. Was mostly curious if those devices can be plugged into the 24V-32V sockets or if they can't (i.e., would explode). Thanks!

 

[rsumner]

@theatrus I prefer wired networking for better reliability and lower latency compared to Wifi. An enhancement you may want to consider for a future version is adding an ethernet module such as the "W5500 SPI to Ethernet Module" to your ESP32. Depending on where you source your components, it should only add a couple bucks to your per-unit build cost.

Another question I had: What accuracy are you seeing from your current sensors? I saw you mentioned in a previous post that current sensing is limited to 5A per port, but I didn't see anything about accuracy. I'm not sure which component you're using for current sensing, but I know something like a INA226 has a built-in 16-bit ADC rendering a power measurement accuracy of about 0.2%.

 

[rsumner]

@theatrus I prefer wired networking for better reliability and lower latency compared to Wifi. An enhancement you may want to consider for a future version is adding an ethernet module such as the "W5500 SPI to Ethernet Module" to your ESP32. Depending on where you source your components, it should only add a couple bucks to your per-unit build cost.

Another question I had: What accuracy are you seeing from your current sensors? I saw you mentioned in a previous post that current sensing is limited to 5A per port, but I didn't see anything about accuracy. I'm not sure which component you're using for current sensing, but I know something like a INA226 has a built-in 16-bit ADC rendering a power measurement accuracy of about 0.2%.

I answered my own question above: I dug around in your Github repo and saw you're using ADS1115 current sensors. Assuming you've got a good voltage reference, I would assume you should see current sensing accuracy close to 0.2%.

Man, I love the quality components you use in your build -- worth every penny.

 

[theatrus]

I answered my own question above: I dug around in your Github repo and saw you're using ADS1115 current sensors. Assuming you've got a good voltage reference, I would assume you should see current sensing accuracy close to 0.2%.

Man, I love the quality components you use in your build -- worth every penny.

Thanks!

The current shunts in the TPS1H100 switches do have a bit of an accuracy curve, but in the nominal range here you'll be within 5% (low currents in the few mA have a huge error). The ADS1115 is surprisingly cheap and (substantially) much better than using the ESP32 directly.

I too enjoy wires! I didn't break out enough pins for a SPI Ethernet module, and for local control for on/off based on sensors would somewhat rely on the CAN bus. I'll consider it for future builds though.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Are these ready for prime time? I’m getting ready to start a build. My lighting system is a tad bit of a headache as I’m using several light sources, one of those are 8 - XR30s, so I have 8 large bricks. My lighting rack will move up/down and away from the tank. These 8 bricks will need to be mounted to the ceiling to prevent additional system taxing. Can I use this system to eliminate the 8 bricks?

 

[ashburn2k]

Are these ready for prime time? I’m getting ready to start a build. My lighting system is a tad bit of a headache as I’m using several light sources, one of those are 8 - XR30s, so I have 8 large bricks. My lighting rack will move up/down and away from the tank. These 8 bricks will need to be mounted to the ceiling to prevent additional system taxing. Can I use this system to eliminate the 8 bricks?

Those are not for power hungry lights, wait for his HD version, right now my solution is connecting the lights with 1 big fat power supply that connects the light using a power fuse block.

 

[JoJosReef]

Yes, count me in with the others anxiously waiting for the HD version!

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Those are not for power hungry lights, wait for his HD version, right now my solution is connecting the lights with 1 big fat power supply that connects the light using a power fuse block.

Can you share a photo or part number? I’m not following?

 

[ashburn2k]

for ex: I used this power supply
Amazon product
and this fuse block
Amazon product

and add some 5.5 jack ports for your lights to plug in

Excuse me for the wiring mess, it’s now cleaned up and mounted away

 

[theatrus]

Those are not for power hungry lights, wait for his HD version, right now my solution is connecting the lights with 1 big fat power supply that connects the light using a power fuse block.

Great way to go

HD version isn't ready yet. Working on it, so soon. The main benefit on the HD version is monitoring and on/off control, but the fuse block approach totally works for simple bussing.

 

[JCOLE]

@theatrus I wanted to put this here as I figured if anyone could make it, it would be you! Would you be able or interested in making a DC motor controller that is 0-10v capable? Similar to the DC Buddy, but where you can connect wave makers to it and control each output with its own 0-10v input. For instance, I have six Jebao SOW-20's and I would love to be able to get rid of the controllers and control them with my Apex. I do not know how to create something like this, but I could see this being a hot item for us reefers if we could eliminate all wavemaker power bricks and controllers and just have one source for connection and control.

 

[theatrus]

@theatrus I wanted to put this here as I figured if anyone could make it, it would be you! Would you be able or interested in making a DC motor controller that is 0-10v capable? Similar to the DC Buddy, but where you can connect wave makers to it and control each output with its own 0-10v input. For instance, I have six Jebao SOW-20's and I would love to be able to get rid of the controllers and control them with my Apex. I do not know how to create something like this, but I could see this being a hot item for us reefers if we could eliminate all wavemaker power bricks and controllers and just have one source for connection and control.

I was looking at the 0-10V support on the aquarium controller variant, so there is some interest here.

As for the APEX control, thats not possible right now. Stand-alone control or control through home assistant would be possible however

 

[JoJosReef]

Hi @theatrus do you have a guestimate timeline for the HD? Just curious--setting up a new tank in Sept/Oct and wondering whether to wait for the HD or get a wifi strip for the meantime. No pressure! ;-)

 

[JCOLE]

I was looking at the 0-10V support on the aquarium controller variant, so there is some interest here.

As for the APEX control, thats not possible right now. Stand-alone control or control through home assistant would be possible however

Ok. If you had 0-10v control for individual power outlets, then they could be controlled by the Apex via their dimming module or by any other controller that uses 0-10v dimming. I would jump on that immediately. I feel that this is one piece of equipment that seems to be lacking in the industry. It would be similar to the Hydros power module but with more flexibility given the 0-10v nature.

Heck, even an Arduino could hook into the module via the 0-10v dimming. I think it has many possibilities for outside source connections.

 

[theatrus]

Ok. If you had 0-10v control for individual power outlets, then they could be controlled by the Apex via their dimming module or by any other controller that uses 0-10v dimming. I would jump on that immediately. I feel that this is one piece of equipment that seems to be lacking in the industry. It would be similar to the Hydros power module but with more flexibility given the 0-10v nature.

Heck, even an Arduino could hook into the module via the 0-10v dimming. I think it has many possibilities for outside source connections.

Let me parse this back - 0-10V inputs for the power modules to turn them on/off?

Deal

 

[Harpo]

Love my DC Buddy. Any updates on the back up power supply?