Tomini tang with flukes?

[KrAt0s]

Tomini tang with what seems to be flukes? Flashing against tank and rocks stated today. I’m thinking to go for a freshwater dip and back into quarantine? What about the remaining fish?

All other fish in the tank have no symptoms. Honestly can’t believe flukes made it through the QT process ‍


Aquarium Parameters:
50 gallon AIO tank
Filter floss/ plastic bio balls / siporax media / rock rubble filtration

Lighting: 2 AI prime 16HD

Aquarium established for 6 months, all fish quarantined for 30 days in copper power & then general cure spaced 8 days apart, other fish currently show no signs of disease. (2 occellaris clowns, royal gramma, fire fish)



Water quality

Temperature: 78° (aquarium heater reading, hydros temp sensor, & verified with external thermometer.)

Salinity / specific gravity: 1.026 (milwalkee digital)

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Phosphate: 0.14 ppm

Nitrate: 15 ppm

Water changes 20% weekly



In-depth information:

No fish to this problem before, or at all for this tank. Royal gramma with odd behavior in quarantine but recovered well and in display. Firefish had post injury in quarantine and recovered 100%.

Several invertebrates in the tank. Crabs, urchin, snails, conch.

Fish is eating aggressively.

No remedies tried yet.
Tomini tang with what seems to be flukes? I’m thinking to go for a freshwater dip and back into quarantine? What about the remaining fish?



All other fish in the tank have no symptoms.



Aquarium Parameters:



50 gallon AIO tank

Filter floss/ plastic bio balls / siporax media / rock rubble filtration



Lighting: 2 AI prime 16HD



Aquarium established for 6 months, all fish quarantined for 30 days in copper power & then general cure spaced 8 days apart, other fish currently show no signs of disease. (2 occellaris clowns, royal gramma, fire fish)



Water quality

Temperature: 78° (aquarium heater reading, hydros temp sensor, & verified with external thermometer.)

Salinity / specific gravity: 1.026 (milwalkee digital)

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Phosphate: 0.14 ppm

Nitrate: 15 ppm

Water changes 20% weekly



In-depth information:

No fish to this problem before, or at all for this tank. Royal gramma with odd behavior in quarantine but recovered well and in display. Firefish had post injury in quarantine and recovered 100%.

Several invertebrates in the tank. Crabs, urchin, snails, conch.

Fish is eating aggressively.

No remedies tried yet. #fishmedic

#fishmedicH type="full"]3930288[/ATTACH]

 

[KrAt0s]

 

[vetteguy53081]

Tomini tang with what seems to be flukes? Flashing against tank and rocks stated today. I’m thinking to go for a freshwater dip and back into quarantine? What about the remaining fish?

All other fish in the tank have no symptoms. Honestly can’t believe flukes made it through the QT process ‍


Aquarium Parameters:
50 gallon AIO tank
Filter floss/ plastic bio balls / siporax media / rock rubble filtration

Lighting: 2 AI prime 16HD

Aquarium established for 6 months, all fish quarantined for 30 days in copper power & then general cure spaced 8 days apart, other fish currently show no signs of disease. (2 occellaris clowns, royal gramma, fire fish)



Water quality

Temperature: 78° (aquarium heater reading, hydros temp sensor, & verified with external thermometer.)

Salinity / specific gravity: 1.026 (milwalkee digital)

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Phosphate: 0.14 ppm

Nitrate: 15 ppm

Water changes 20% weekly



In-depth information:

No fish to this problem before, or at all for this tank. Royal gramma with odd behavior in quarantine but recovered well and in display. Firefish had post injury in quarantine and recovered 100%.

Several invertebrates in the tank. Crabs, urchin, snails, conch.

Fish is eating aggressively.

No remedies tried yet.
Tomini tang with what seems to be flukes? I’m thinking to go for a freshwater dip and back into quarantine? What about the remaining fish?



All other fish in the tank have no symptoms.



Aquarium Parameters:



50 gallon AIO tank

Filter floss/ plastic bio balls / siporax media / rock rubble filtration



Lighting: 2 AI prime 16HD



Aquarium established for 6 months, all fish quarantined for 30 days in copper power & then general cure spaced 8 days apart, other fish currently show no signs of disease. (2 occellaris clowns, royal gramma, fire fish)



Water quality

Temperature: 78° (aquarium heater reading, hydros temp sensor, & verified with external thermometer.)

Salinity / specific gravity: 1.026 (milwalkee digital)

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Phosphate: 0.14 ppm

Nitrate: 15 ppm

Water changes 20% weekly



In-depth information:

No fish to this problem before, or at all for this tank. Royal gramma with odd behavior in quarantine but recovered well and in display. Firefish had post injury in quarantine and recovered 100%.

Several invertebrates in the tank. Crabs, urchin, snails, conch.

Fish is eating aggressively.

No remedies tried yet. #fishmedic

#fishmedicH type="full"]3930288[/ATTACH]

You used General cure 8 days apart and depended on the prazi content which is very low in GC. You wanted PraziPro (praziquantel) instead and for effectivity. In the pics , I see mucus cones likely stemming from a skin irritation and May be mixed with ich. Freshwater dip is a measure for temporary relief of flukes and brooklynella disease and not a cure.
Is fish breathing normal or elevated and still eating?
A video under white light intensity , no blue may prove more helpful with diagnosis

 

[KrAt0s]

You used General cure 8 days apart and depended on the prazi content which is very low in GC. You wanted PraziPro (praziquantel) instead and for effectivity. In the pics , I see mucus cones likely stemming from a skin irritation and May be mixed with ich. Freshwater dip is a measure for temporary relief of flukes and brooklynella disease and not a cure.
Is fish breathing normal or elevated and still eating?
A video under white light intensity , no blue may prove more helpful with diagnosis

@vetteguy53081 went ahead and moved to QT. Will upload white light video. Here are white light images.

 

[KrAt0s]

@vetteguy53081 went ahead and moved to QT. Will upload white light video. Here are white light images.

Here’s the video @vetteguy53081

 

[vetteguy53081]

@vetteguy53081 went ahead and moved to QT. Will upload white light video. Here are white light images.

There's a few mucus cones present and the scratching may be from skin irritation. Treat fish using coppersafe at 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period monitored with a hanna brand copper test kit, Other fish often show no signs with this however observe them closely over the next 2 weeks for any outbreaks

 

[vetteguy53081]

Here’s the video @vetteguy53081

breathing rate looks good

 

[KrAt0s]

There's a few mucus cones present and the scratching may be from skin irritation. Treat fish using coppersafe at 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period monitored with a hanna brand copper test kit, Other fish often show no signs with this however observe them closely over the next 2 weeks for any outbreaks

Thanks, you believe it is ich and not flukes? Fish did do a full 30 of 2.5 coppersafe verified with Hanna checked prior to GC previously. Think Ich could have made it through that?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks, you believe it is ich and not flukes? Fish did do a full 30 of 2.5 coppersafe verified with Hanna checked prior to GC previously. Think Ich could have made it through that?

This likely began with a skin irritation

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ahhh, I wish I had seen your post earlier! Moving the tang to a QT was probably not the correct action.

If the tang has flukes, all your fish will need to be treated. I see snails in your tank so you can’t use hyposalinity. The next best option would be Prazipro dosed 3x, 8 days apart with good aeration and no carbon filtration. Run any skimmer, but don’t collect the skimmate.

General Cure has the same level of prazi in it as Prazipro does. The issue is that some flukes are egg layers. Prazi doesn’t kill the eggs, and it breaks down in a few days, so two treatments doesn’t always break the life cycle. Even 3 doesn’t always work, bit it stands a better chance. I’ve dosed it as many as 5 times.

 

[KrAt0s]

Ahhh, I wish I had seen your post earlier! Moving the tang to a QT was probably not the correct action.

If the tang has flukes, all your fish will need to be treated. I see snails in your tank so you can’t use hyposalinity. The next best option would be Prazipro dosed 3x, 8 days apart with good aeration and no carbon filtration. Run any skimmer, but don’t collect the skimmate.

General Cure has the same level of prazi in it as Prazipro does. The issue is that some flukes are egg layers. Prazi doesn’t kill the eggs, and it breaks down in a few days, so two treatments doesn’t always break the life cycle. Even 3 doesn’t always work, bit it stands a better chance. I’ve dosed it as many as 5 times.

So how can I determine flukes vs ich at this point? I can easily move back to display, I have a huge 10” net so the catch is quick and uneventful. but would that mean all the inverts need to come out? Conch, urchin, hermits, and also some porcelain crabs that might be hard to find.

 

[KrAt0s]

So how can I determine flukes vs ich at this point? I can easily move back to display, I have a huge 10” net so the catch is quick and uneventful. but would that mean all the inverts need to come out? Conch, urchin, hermits, and also some porcelain crabs that might be hard to find.

@Jay Hemdal seems like prazi into for CUC so should I move him back and move forward with PRAZI treatments?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal seems like prazi into for CUC so should I move him back and move forward with PRAZI treatments?

Or, just treat him in place and treat your main tank also - saves from “double bouncing” the tomini as that is very stressful. Then, after a few days, move the tomini back for the second and third treatments.
I may have missed it - do you give the tomini a FW dip? That won’t cure it, but you may see dead flukes in the bottom of the dip container, and that would confirm the diagnosis.

 

[KrAt0s]

Or, just treat him in place and treat your main tank also - saves from “double bouncing” the tomini as that is very stressful. Then, after a few days, move the tomini back for the second and third treatments.
I may have missed it - do you give the tomini a FW dip? That won’t cure it, but you may see dead flukes in the bottom of the dip container, and that would confirm the diagnosis.

@Jay Hemdal i did not FW dip. Should I do that as a confirmation tool?

Good idea to give him a few days. The QT tank is established and been running for several months now.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal i did not FW dip. Should I do that as a confirmation tool?

Good idea to give him a few days. The QT tank is established and been running for several months now.

No - I thought you had mentioned that you might do one, so I was curious of the outcome if you had. I wouldn't go and dip it now, due to the extra stress.

Jay

 

[KrAt0s]

@Jay Hemdal everyone’s back in DT and appears happy no signs of flukes after the first round of prazi. Did the second round today but forgot to turn off the skimmer. Cup was cleaned immediately prior to dosing so I just dumped the cup back into the tank. The prazi should still be active correct? Skimmer is off now. Thanks again for your help!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal everyone’s back in DT and appears happy no signs of flukes after the first round of prazi. Did the second round today but forgot to turn off the skimmer. Cup was cleaned immediately prior to dosing so I just dumped the cup back into the tank. The prazi should still be active correct? Skimmer is off now. Thanks again for your help!

Yes, any prazi caught by the skimmer was just added back to the tank, so no worries there.