What hanna checker should i get?

vcnt

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I currently have the api master saltwater kit (ph ammonia nitrite nitrate) and i am thinking of picking up a phos checker, as i dont have any coral yett, so i dont think i need the coral element testers. Do i get phosphate or phosphorus?

Also, My tank is about 3 weeks old and nitrite wont go down, is this an issue or faulty test kit?
 

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The ulr phosphorus is the most accurate but you need to convert the number into ppm with a chart hanna has online. The phosphate ULR is probably the most common.

Also you can ignore nitrite as long as you have no ammonia.
 

exnisstech

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For me the Hanna testers are easier than trying to read a color change. I use ultra low range phosphate, hi range nitrate and alkalinity. That's all I test on my weekly testing. I use salifert to test calcium every few weeks. The Hanna calcium checker was too complicate IMO

EDIT: are you showing any nitrate? I don't own a nitrite or ammonia test. Right or wrong what works for me when cycling a tank is to watch for nitrate. When I see nitrates I slowly start adding livestock.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I did a 15% last week , another one is tomorrw. my nitrite is a dark purple

IMO, that is irrelevant as long as ammonia declines rapidly to low levels.
 

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I currently have the api master saltwater kit (ph ammonia nitrite nitrate) and i am thinking of picking up a phos checker, as i dont have any coral yett, so i dont think i need the coral element testers. Do i get phosphate or phosphorus?

Also, My tank is about 3 weeks old and nitrite wont go down, is this an issue or faulty test kit?
ULR Phosphate and ULR Phosphorus Hanna checkers are using exactly the same methode and chemicals. Doesn't matter which one you get but the phosphate one is more convenient because it does the calculation for you. I would get the rest of the tests from Salifert. They are cheap but accurate.
 

dr_vinnie_boombatz

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I have all 5 and the only one I do not use is magnesium. I use Randy's method of ICP.

Recommend:

ALK 772

PO4 HI774

NO3 HI782

CA HI758
+
HI70436
 

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ULR Phosphate and ULR Phosphorus Hanna checkers are using exactly the same methode and chemicals. Doesn't matter which one you get but the phosphate one is more convenient because it does the calculation for you. I would get the rest of the tests from Salifert. They are cheap but accurate.

The phosphorus ulr has a smaller error margin from my understanding
 

Tavero

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The phosphorus ulr has a smaller error margin from my understanding
What's your evidence for that? I can't say anything about the error margin, but at least the cuvettes are interchangeable and produce the same results (I tested a water sample with both checkers). Maybe the phosphorus checker has a more sensitive sensor but I doubt it.
 

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What's your evidence for that? I can't say anything about the error margin, but at least the cuvettes are interchangeable and produce the same results (I tested a water sample with both checkers). Maybe the phosphorus checker has a more sensitive sensor but I doubt it.

5ppb is the error margin for the phosphorus ulr vs 0.2ppm for the phosphate ulr
 

Tavero

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5ppb is the error margin for the phosphorus ulr vs 0.2ppm for the phosphate ulr
Not evidence and also not true at all.
First of all, phosphate ulr checker accuracy is 0.02 ppm not 0.2 ppm. That's right from the manual
IMG_20240724_082524.jpg


So it's 20ppb vs 5ppb. But phosphate is approximately 4 times heavier than phosphorus so it equals out.
PO4 is 94 g/mol
P is 30 g/mol

Except of the final calculation, the checkers are having literally the same specifications.
 
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vcnt

vcnt

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I've always wondered how Hanna set those specifications. They are very useful if they reflect normal user experiences, but do they?
I ended up just getting red sea algae pro, and my po4 is still at 0, but nitrates was high around 20 so i did a 20 gallon water change this morning, should phosphate be higher?
 

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