What hanna checker should i get?

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I ended up just getting red sea algae pro, and my po4 is still at 0, but nitrates was high around 20 so i did a 20 gallon water change this morning, should phosphate be higher?

I'd either feed more (if nitrate is not excessive already) or dose food grade sodium phosphate to attain at least 0.02 ppm 24 h after dosing.

 

[vcnt]

I'd either feed more (if nitrate is not excessive already) or dose food grade sodium phosphate to attain at least 0.02 ppm 24 h after dosing.

Ive been feeding 1 cube of mysis a day, 1/2 morning 1/2 afternoon. but i dont know if feeding more would be good since they sometimes eat less than what i give, thanks

 

[Tavero]

I've always wondered how Hanna set those specifications. They are very useful if they reflect normal user experiences, but do they?

These are probably the specs that have been forwarded from the photocell manufacturer. In my opinion the inaccuracies that are caused by scratched/opaque glas and user error are a lot higher than 0.02 ppm.

Lately I observed a friend who was doing a phosphate test. Tiny air bubbles were covering the cuvettes during measurement which resulted in values of 0.3 ppm phosphate instead of 0.2 ppm. If you don't have perfect eyesight and pay attention you wont see this micro bubble cover. And I imagine a lot of users are getting bad results because of this. Perfectly following the instructions won't help because the step to remove these bubbles is missing.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Ive been feeding 1 cube of mysis a day, 1/2 morning 1/2 afternoon. but i dont know if feeding more would be good since they sometimes eat less than what i give, thanks

Feeding more is not always the best option if it is piling up on the bottom. Dosing is also going to be less expensive.

For $8, you can get enough to boost 100 L with 0.1 ppm a thousand times

cannot seem to get amazon link to post

Loudwolf sodium phosphate dibasic (mono and tribasic are also OK)

 

[Spare time]

Not evidence and also not true at all.
First of all, phosphate ulr checker accuracy is 0.02 ppm not 0.2 ppm. That's right from the manual

So it's 20ppb vs 5ppb. But phosphate is approximately 4 times heavier than phosphorus so it equals out.
PO4 is 94 g/mol
P is 30 g/mol

Except of the final calculation, the checkers are having literally the same specifications.

The 0.2 was a typo.

 

[Sophie"s mom]

I currently have the api master saltwater kit (ph ammonia nitrite nitrate) and i am thinking of picking up a phos checker, as i dont have any coral yett, so i dont think i need the coral element testers. Do i get phosphate or phosphorus?

Also, My tank is about 3 weeks old and nitrite wont go down, is this an issue or faulty test kit?

I am personally a big fan of Hanna Testers. IF you can afford them. If need be just get them 1 at a time, but they are WELL worth the money. I recommend what I call the big 4, Alkalinity, Phosphate, Nitrate, and PH. I like them because they take ALL the guess work out. No guess work needed, as long as you follow directions, yo get a digital read.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I currently have the api master saltwater kit (ph ammonia nitrite nitrate) and i am thinking of picking up a phos checker, as i dont have any coral yett, so i dont think i need the coral element testers. Do i get phosphate or phosphorus?

Also, My tank is about 3 weeks old and nitrite wont go down, is this an issue or faulty test kit?

If you don't have the money for Hannas, I recommend Salifert kits. They are cheap ($20) and are accurate.