What RODI unit?
- Thread starter DarrenCar
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Reeferdood
2500 Club Member
Although a little pricey, I would recommend a 4 stage spectrapure unit..
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DarrenCar
Active Member
I should have added this in also. I do need some type of portability to the unit. I have no place to permanently mount it and will be doing a setup as needed basis. With a 65 gallon display I think I will most likely need to make about 50 gallons every 3 weeks but that's just a total guess. I am also looking to keep the dollar cost as near to the $200 range as possible.
alton
Valuable Member
Does your water company have Chloramines in their water supply or just chlorine and at what levels?
https://www.spectrapure.com/product/chloramine-removal-90-gpd-ro-di-system-cr-rodi-90-10/
https://www.spectrapure.com/product/chloramine-removal-90-gpd-ro-di-system-cr-rodi-90-10/
Retro Reefer
Slow and steady wins the race!
I’m in a similar boat with no space to permanently mount my RO system so I picked up a small dolly and mounted everything to it.. I have about $250 in the complete system including booster pump and dual TDS meter.
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DarrenCar
Active Member
Well that’s an awesome question. Can I test for this someway? I tested my tap water for nitrate and phosphate and they both came up with nothing. Also testing with a tds meter I am ranging between 32-37. Other than that I’m not sure what’s in it. I do smell a chlorine odor at times though.
You have to contact your water company and ask them what they use to treat the water. Some use chloramines instead of chlorine. If they use chloramines then you need a filter in your RODI for that.
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DarrenCar
Active Member
It’s a long read from my water source treatment plant but it would appear they use chlorine.
Treatment Process
Conventional water treatment is used at both the R.B. Simms and Whitlock treatment plants. "Raw"water from the reservoir is first passed through a screen to remove large objects, and then treated with chlorine. The chlorine aids in removal of iron and manganese, two natural substances in the water which would stain clothing and plumbing fixtures if not removed. The chlorine also acts as a disinfectant, destroying bacteria, viruses, algae, and other organisms, some of which could cause illness. Alum, lime, and polymer are then added. In a process called coagulation, these substances combine with each other and with fine particles in the water to form a substance called "floc" which is heavier than water. Powdered activated carbon is added at this stage as needed to help remove unpleasant tastes or odors. The water then passes through large basins where the floc settles to the bottom and is removed, taking unwanted substances with it. Clear "settled" water is skimmed from the top of the basins and filtered to remove still more unwanted material. Additional chlorine disinfectant and lime are added as needed to meet state requirements. A corrosion inhibitor containing zinc and phosphate is added to preserve distribution piping and prevent lead and copper contamination. Finally, fluoride is added to prevent tooth decay.
Treatment Process
Conventional water treatment is used at both the R.B. Simms and Whitlock treatment plants. "Raw"water from the reservoir is first passed through a screen to remove large objects, and then treated with chlorine. The chlorine aids in removal of iron and manganese, two natural substances in the water which would stain clothing and plumbing fixtures if not removed. The chlorine also acts as a disinfectant, destroying bacteria, viruses, algae, and other organisms, some of which could cause illness. Alum, lime, and polymer are then added. In a process called coagulation, these substances combine with each other and with fine particles in the water to form a substance called "floc" which is heavier than water. Powdered activated carbon is added at this stage as needed to help remove unpleasant tastes or odors. The water then passes through large basins where the floc settles to the bottom and is removed, taking unwanted substances with it. Clear "settled" water is skimmed from the top of the basins and filtered to remove still more unwanted material. Additional chlorine disinfectant and lime are added as needed to meet state requirements. A corrosion inhibitor containing zinc and phosphate is added to preserve distribution piping and prevent lead and copper contamination. Finally, fluoride is added to prevent tooth decay.
alton
Valuable Member
I like using the following both on my pool and RO system. I check the water after carbon to make sure it is not spent
https://www.amazon.com/AquaChek-551...qid=1553608038&s=industrial&tag=bestcont06-20
FYI my free and total chlorine is higher in my tapwater than my pool
https://www.amazon.com/AquaChek-551...qid=1553608038&s=industrial&tag=bestcont06-20
FYI my free and total chlorine is higher in my tapwater than my pool
I don’t think you could go wrong with Spectrapure or BRS systems. It doesn’t look like chloramine will be an issue based on your water treatment description.
I have a BRS system.
crusso1993
7500 Club Member
I’m in a similar boat with no space to permanently mount my RO system so I picked up a small dolly and mounted everything to it.. I have about $250 in the complete system including booster pump and dual TDS meter.
@Retro Reefer - diggin' your portable rig! I am planning on buying that exact same booster pump this week. I love that it has a built in autoflush. Some aggressive pricing on Amazon right now too.
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
That's correct. If you're looking at the 150 GPD you really need around 80 PSI to have both membranes function properly. In most cases, dual membranes almost always require a booster pump.
Price wise out of the options mentioned, Buckeye is the cheapest. Spectrapure the most expensive, I myself run Spectrapure and love it. But it's the filters I love. Each system is pretty much made the same, and all the basic filters are the same, it's Spectrapures premium line that sets them apart.
Oh and as for portability, do you have a bathroom with open space above the toilet?
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Retro Reefer
Slow and steady wins the race!
@Retro Reefer - diggin' your portable rig! I am planning on buying that exact same booster pump this week. I love that it has a built in autoflush. Some aggressive pricing on Amazon right now too.
Thanks! I just store it in my utility room and wheel it outside or into kitchen to make my water when needed.. that’s a great deal on the booster and with it I can fill a 5 gallon jug in a little over an hour.
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DarrenCar
Active Member
So I should probably get a pressure gauge of some sort to test the psi first then?
As for the bathroom style, well I will say that your setup looks good. We have here at our house city supplied water but not sewer. I don’t feel comfortable running my waste water down into my septic system and fields. I plan on having a setup that saves all of the waste water in rain style barrels for use in the flower gardens. I’m pretty stingy with my money and dumping good water down the drain would stress me out..
As for the bathroom style, well I will say that your setup looks good. We have here at our house city supplied water but not sewer. I don’t feel comfortable running my waste water down into my septic system and fields. I plan on having a setup that saves all of the waste water in rain style barrels for use in the flower gardens. I’m pretty stingy with my money and dumping good water down the drain would stress me out..
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
You can always plumb the waste outside somehow. Might be a bit of a pain but can definately be done. As long as the system you purchase has a PSI Guage It will let you know whether or not you need to purchase a Booster pump. I run a Dual Membrane and even thought of adding a third membrane with my PSI to cut my waste down significantly (I hate the thought of wasting good water and money as well). You can also change your waste to product ratio with a different flow restrictor. Going from a 4:1 to a 3:1 won't significantly harm your membrane life and will drastically cut down on the waste you produce.
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