What type of algae species is this?

[Charles0420]

Hello reefers,

New to this community and wish to get help from you guys.

I have recently encountered this algae outbreak not too long ago and I can’t seem to identify this algae species. Can anyone please help me to identify what algae species is this? I do also wish to know the cause and the methods/treatments to remove the algae if possible.

Here are my water parameters in case it helps:
Po4: 0.01ppm
No3: 5 ppm
Alkalinity: 8.0 dKh
Ca: 420 ppm
Mg: 1290 ppm

(I am sorry if the pictures aren’t clear enough, I tried my best).

Thanks in advance.

 

[drivingmecrazy]

I cannot truly tell as the pictures are not clear.

My best hypothesis is Bryopsis. A quick identification for me is if it looks like feathers sprouting. If not some sort of green hair algae. My advice is to correctly identify it and then research ways to control and how to prevent Bryopsis / hair algae. There are a lot of good articles on getting rid of it.

This is common in the industry and with the proper research and counter measures in place you could start seeing it reduced in as little as 3 weeks.

I'll be glad to help but you'll have to be the one who ultimately decide what species you're dealing with.
Best of luck,
Christopher

 

[Stevorino]

I agree w/ Christopher that it looks like Bryopsis, but could be another type of turf algae.

1. Has your Nitrate/Phosphate always been that low, or is that the current reading?
2. How long has it been this prolific?
3. How long has the tank been up?
4. Where did you get your rock from?

 

[Charles0420]

Hello @drivingmecrazy @Stevorino, thank you all for the inputs! It does not look like feather, however it does look like turf algae/GHA, so I guess it could be either one.

I read about fluconazole treatment that can kill off many types of algae including turf algae, and I'm kinda worried it would kill my fish and corals too during the treatment although many reported it has no effect on them. At the same time, I'm considering towards biological approach to address the outbreak by introducing a tuxedo urchin or other invertebrates that eat turf algae. I do have 2 tangs in the tank, but they just won't touch the algae.

I agree w/ Christopher that it looks like Bryopsis, but could be another type of turf algae.

1. Has your Nitrate/Phosphate always been that low, or is that the current reading?
2. How long has it been this prolific?
3. How long has the tank been up?
4. Where did you get your rock from?

1. My nitrate and phosphate always read that low and I don't do heavy feeding usually. Plus, I do have a algae reactor with chaeto in it.

2. It was really less sitting on a rock only back in 2 months, I didn't bother to remove it as I thought it would be nice to have my tangs to eat that. So it gets worse over time and starts to really bother me.

3. The tank has been up and running for 2 years, and it was a fish only tank for a year, and started to buy some corals after that. I did not have any algae issue until recently.

4. My rocks are dry rocks from Aquarium Münster.


Anyway, I will still continue to do more researches and hope that I can manage to address this issue. I am still open to any suggestion if you guys have any.

Thanks in advance and happy reefing!

 

[Stevorino]

A few more thoughts for you:

- My first step would be to really try to get as much out as possible in a single go and then test water for Nitrate/Phosphate every day or two and see if there are any changes. When you have a bunch of it, it acts as a nutrient sponge and can conceal underlying issues.

- Is it possible that during your FOWLR era that Phosphates were high? If so, then your rock could have a bunch of phosphate it is releasing now = feeding this turf algae. If you suspect this could be the case, I would see if you can pull a single rock out... put it in a 5 gallon bucket of water with a heater and see how much, if any, phosphate releases over the course of a week.

- I have had mixed success w/ Fluconazole: Yes, it will likely nuke that stuff over the course of a couple of weeks. It may take multiple doses. The issue is that if your rock is indeed releasing phosphate, it will all come back shortly after treatment. If you DON'T have a rock problem, this may be all you need to do.

When I used Flux-RX, I did lose SPS, but my LPS/Zoas/Anemones were fine. I don't think it's necessarily the drug that kills them off, but rather all of the side-effects and abrupt tank changes.... but that's just my theory.

Good luck!

 

[drivingmecrazy]

I agree with Stevorino, I have not personally used Fluconazole. However, I used Vibrant. I never had any problems with Vibrant but again this is a use at your own risk type of thing. There have been so many negative / Concerned posts on Reef2Reef and the possibility of it be an Algaecide vs Bacteria. I personally have spoken to the owner about vibrant, and I trust his opinion and what he actually had to say versus what others say. The fact that he took my call said a lot. This was during the time when reef2reef was blowing up about vibrant. If I had to today, I would use it with no hesitation because of my personal experience with him and based on the results I see. But at the same time, I did not have any clams or invertebrates in my system however, I have high end Acropora both types of aquacultures and wild and I'm only saying that because wild acropora can be the hardest to keep alive, LPS, Zoanthids and Mushrooms and I didn't have any problems. I know it works if follow the directions properly. **** On the flip side of my statement. I do not promote wild coral harvesting. And this goes against everything I personally believe in. And I'm not saying this lightly, but I waited my whole life to have a bright blue baby blue Formosa stag, and it was the only way I was able to acquire it. And I thought long and hard about the purchase of it for an opportunity to culture it and introduce it to the market. Which is my long-term dream of owning an aquaculture facility.

Back from my rant...
However, I personally feel any chemical methods you will see an immediate result (1 to 2 weeks or less) However in time will possibly grow back because the true problem is not fixed.
If you do want immediate results that is a much safer way. If you can pull out the affected rocks, you can do a 10% ratio to your aquarium water using Hydrogen Peroxide 3% concentration from over-the-counter brown bottle. This will more than likely make it totally disappear on the rocks that you dipped within less than a week. You will know that its working when the algae bubbles from the peroxide.

I would personally rinse the rocks off afterwords and place back in the tank. Any bubble action is considered safe because it's giving off oxygen. At least that's my understanding of it. I'm not a chemist.

But this does not solve the reason why its growing. It may be as what @Stevorino stated with locked up PO4 in the rocks. What kind of Lighting are you using? And is there any way the bulbs may need to be replaced as they lose their spectrum such as T5 / MH lights. Some LEDs with the red and green spectrum can cause unwanted algae growth patterns too.

I'm reposting your test results this is my thoughts on it.

Po4: 0.01ppm - In case you are not aware this is a good target also a low target 0.01 - 0.03ppm some reefers run a little higher. However, this is a false level reading as the algae is growing. Which I believe you understand this if not. Because your turf algae are consuming it and growing and in return giving you a lower reading.

No3: 5 ppm - I think 5ppm is a decent level in my system which is established runs anywhere from 12 -25ppm but I also heavy feed and feed lots of plankton, but I don't have any algae issues. I grow Chaeto too. And Chaeto should be a fast-growing alga and I feel like it should be competing from the nutrients level in you water column. Versus your turf algae growing. Make sure you have a high-powered light and excellent water flow in order to make the Chaeto grow quick. Also, Chaeto needs a huge amount of Iron and Iodine If the levels Deplenish in your reef tank you have to add it to keep the Chaeto healthy and growing. However, I have to caution everyone dosing Iodine without proper testing (ICP) can be dangerous and deadly to your reef tank. But I target mine at .08um. There has been a lot of reference from the induvial Iodide test that they may not be accurate. I personally do not use them but only (ICP)


Alkalinity: 8.0 dKh - I feel like this is on par. I do run mine around 9 to 9.5dKh there are numerous articles that state running a higher Alk will decrease unwanted algae. From my understanding it promotes more Coraline algae which also strips the water and out competes the bad algae.

Ca: 420 ppm - With me running high Alk I keep my calcium to 440 - 450ppm.
Mg: 1290 ppm - I keep mine 1375 to 1400ppm

By no means do I want you to chase numbers you are the expert on your system. What I loke to suggest is to step back and literally look at your system. What is it telling you? Your welcome to post pictures and see do you notice any coralline algae. I'm not sure how long your tank has been set up but I feel like you should see coralline algae start encrusting in as little 60 to 90days.

Now from my past mistakes all your levels that you tested look decent however and I understand you may not have a strontium test. I know this can be a confusing test. I feel in this (reef Industry we don't talk a lot about Strontium and its overall importance. Again, I'm no chemist. But if you don't have the correct ratio of Strontium and Calcium then the molecules cannot bind and even though you can test for Calcium separately it does have a different effect on reef tanks. You would have to research. I use and recommend Marin Fauna Lab. https://www.faunamarin.de/en/laboratory/
And I personally send out monthly ICP test fairly inexpensive. and I have learned a lot. It wasn't until I brought my strontium levels up did, I see a huge increase in coralline Alge.

Copied directly from their website. Calcium to Strontium Ratio "This ratio value is especially important for the growth of corals: calcium and strontium should generally be in a fixed ratio. If the relation of the two values deviates too much, corals stop growing, even if both values are still ok when viewed individually."

Last, you mentioned having 2 tangs and that can be a bio load there. I have no idea how big they are nor how big your system is. The more detail you can give us the better we can help you. Please provide more pictures of your setup from protein skimmer to refuge anything that may help give use an idea that might be happening.

I hope I helped in some way. My apologies this is so long. I wanted to be as Through as possible. This may be considered an article. Lol...

 

[sixty_reefer]

It seems that is just GHA, my personal advice would be to raise phosphates to 0.05 at least depending on your test kit. 0.01 could also be zero limiting the microbes in P that will affect the biological filter of your system allowing the algae to use the ammonium instead of the microbes.
Raising phosphorus and adding herbivores would help keeping it in check without using harsh methods.

 

[drivingmecrazy]

I thought it be best for all if I shared a link. I have stated from within my previous comment about using vibrant. If anyone decide to use it please be sure you know the risk and do your own research as previously stated multiple times.

I found a link and I'll share it. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/warning-use-vibrant-at-your-own-risk.894995/

I trust what Randy Holmes - Farley said. Its two years old but the article is found here.

Once again, I do not promote the chemical method but if you do so at least do the research on any chemical. Thank You.

 

[Charles0420]

A few more thoughts for you:

- My first step would be to really try to get as much out as possible in a single go and then test water for Nitrate/Phosphate every day or two and see if there are any changes. When you have a bunch of it, it acts as a nutrient sponge and can conceal underlying issues.

- Is it possible that during your FOWLR era that Phosphates were high? If so, then your rock could have a bunch of phosphate it is releasing now = feeding this turf algae. If you suspect this could be the case, I would see if you can pull a single rock out... put it in a 5 gallon bucket of water with a heater and see how much, if any, phosphate releases over the course of a week.

- I have had mixed success w/ Fluconazole: Yes, it will likely nuke that stuff over the course of a couple of weeks. It may take multiple doses. The issue is that if your rock is indeed releasing phosphate, it will all come back shortly after treatment. If you DON'T have a rock problem, this may be all you need to do.

When I used Flux-RX, I did lose SPS, but my LPS/Zoas/Anemones were fine. I don't think it's necessarily the drug that kills them off, but rather all of the side-effects and abrupt tank changes.... but that's just my theory.

Good luck!

Thanks for the suggestion.. I usually pulled out some algae with barehand when doing water changes back then, I would try pulling out as much as I can the next time I do water change until I found the root cause. I do agree that the algae is absorbing my nutrients as I have tried to do feeding a lot heavier than it used to be, but the phosphate and nitrate just won't go up.

When it was a fish only tank, the phosphate was quite high (0.5 - 1 ppm) until I started to do more water changes, carbon dosing and GFO, and the phosphate was down to around 0.05 - 0.1 ppm, never had any algae issue during this time. But still there is a possibility where the rocks could've already absorbed some phosphates. Ahh, would love to do a small experiment to check the phosphate releasing from the rock, but unfortunately all my rocks are attached with epoxy to form some islands which makes it hard for me to pull out a single rock. So, maybe I would look into other alternatives to determine the root cause before the rock experiment.

I will do more studies on Fluconazole and Flux-RX as I do see a lot of reefers removed the turf algae & GHA with success using fluconazole/flux-RX.

Again, thank you for the input.

Cheers.

 

[Charles0420]

I agree with Stevorino, I have not personally used Fluconazole. However, I used Vibrant. I never had any problems with Vibrant but again this is a use at your own risk type of thing. There have been so many negative / Concerned posts on Reef2Reef and the possibility of it be an Algaecide vs Bacteria. I personally have spoken to the owner about vibrant, and I trust his opinion and what he actually had to say versus what others say. The fact that he took my call said a lot. This was during the time when reef2reef was blowing up about vibrant. If I had to today, I would use it with no hesitation because of my personal experience with him and based on the results I see. But at the same time, I did not have any clams or invertebrates in my system however, I have high end Acropora both types of aquacultures and wild and I'm only saying that because wild acropora can be the hardest to keep alive, LPS, Zoanthids and Mushrooms and I didn't have any problems. I know it works if follow the directions properly. **** On the flip side of my statement. I do not promote wild coral harvesting. And this goes against everything I personally believe in. And I'm not saying this lightly, but I waited my whole life to have a bright blue baby blue Formosa stag, and it was the only way I was able to acquire it. And I thought long and hard about the purchase of it for an opportunity to culture it and introduce it to the market. Which is my long-term dream of owning an aquaculture facility.

Back from my rant...
However, I personally feel any chemical methods you will see an immediate result (1 to 2 weeks or less) However in time will possibly grow back because the true problem is not fixed.
If you do want immediate results that is a much safer way. If you can pull out the affected rocks, you can do a 10% ratio to your aquarium water using Hydrogen Peroxide 3% concentration from over-the-counter brown bottle. This will more than likely make it totally disappear on the rocks that you dipped within less than a week. You will know that its working when the algae bubbles from the peroxide.

I would personally rinse the rocks off afterwords and place back in the tank. Any bubble action is considered safe because it's giving off oxygen. At least that's my understanding of it. I'm not a chemist.

But this does not solve the reason why its growing. It may be as what @Stevorino stated with locked up PO4 in the rocks. What kind of Lighting are you using? And is there any way the bulbs may need to be replaced as they lose their spectrum such as T5 / MH lights. Some LEDs with the red and green spectrum can cause unwanted algae growth patterns too.

I'm reposting your test results this is my thoughts on it.

Po4: 0.01ppm - In case you are not aware this is a good target also a low target 0.01 - 0.03ppm some reefers run a little higher. However, this is a false level reading as the algae is growing. Which I believe you understand this if not. Because your turf algae are consuming it and growing and in return giving you a lower reading.

No3: 5 ppm - I think 5ppm is a decent level in my system which is established runs anywhere from 12 -25ppm but I also heavy feed and feed lots of plankton, but I don't have any algae issues. I grow Chaeto too. And Chaeto should be a fast-growing alga and I feel like it should be competing from the nutrients level in you water column. Versus your turf algae growing. Make sure you have a high-powered light and excellent water flow in order to make the Chaeto grow quick. Also, Chaeto needs a huge amount of Iron and Iodine If the levels Deplenish in your reef tank you have to add it to keep the Chaeto healthy and growing. However, I have to caution everyone dosing Iodine without proper testing (ICP) can be dangerous and deadly to your reef tank. But I target mine at .08um. There has been a lot of reference from the induvial Iodide test that they may not be accurate. I personally do not use them but only (ICP)


Alkalinity: 8.0 dKh - I feel like this is on par. I do run mine around 9 to 9.5dKh there are numerous articles that state running a higher Alk will decrease unwanted algae. From my understanding it promotes more Coraline algae which also strips the water and out competes the bad algae.

Ca: 420 ppm - With me running high Alk I keep my calcium to 440 - 450ppm.
Mg: 1290 ppm - I keep mine 1375 to 1400ppm

By no means do I want you to chase numbers you are the expert on your system. What I loke to suggest is to step back and literally look at your system. What is it telling you? Your welcome to post pictures and see do you notice any coralline algae. I'm not sure how long your tank has been set up but I feel like you should see coralline algae start encrusting in as little 60 to 90days.

Now from my past mistakes all your levels that you tested look decent however and I understand you may not have a strontium test. I know this can be a confusing test. I feel in this (reef Industry we don't talk a lot about Strontium and its overall importance. Again, I'm no chemist. But if you don't have the correct ratio of Strontium and Calcium then the molecules cannot bind and even though you can test for Calcium separately it does have a different effect on reef tanks. You would have to research. I use and recommend Marin Fauna Lab. https://www.faunamarin.de/en/laboratory/
And I personally send out monthly ICP test fairly inexpensive. and I have learned a lot. It wasn't until I brought my strontium levels up did, I see a huge increase in coralline Alge.

Copied directly from their website. Calcium to Strontium Ratio "This ratio value is especially important for the growth of corals: calcium and strontium should generally be in a fixed ratio. If the relation of the two values deviates too much, corals stop growing, even if both values are still ok when viewed individually."

Last, you mentioned having 2 tangs and that can be a bio load there. I have no idea how big they are nor how big your system is. The more detail you can give us the better we can help you. Please provide more pictures of your setup from protein skimmer to refuge anything that may help give use an idea that might be happening.

I hope I helped in some way. My apologies this is so long. I wanted to be as Through as possible. This may be considered an article. Lol...

Thank you for your "article" and it is really informative to me. I heard good and bad things about vibrant from the reefer around me, perhaps I should dive in further to know more about vibrant myself to build more confidence on this product if it is really worth a try. I do have fish, clam, some invertebrates and tank cultured sps frags, though. Is there any concern on these animals using vibrant?

Read some good stuff about Hydrogen Peroxide, but have not personally tried it. But my concern is that it is difficult for me to pull out the rocks as they are attached together as an island, I would consider to detach them if hydrogen peroxide is my last resort.

I'm running 2 Radions (XR15 G5) on my Waterbox Marine X 110.4 with 40 percent intensity. FYI, I just happened to remember when I was introducing a sps frag/clam, it came with some algae that I didn't manage to take off and I put into the tank. Could it be possible that I have introduced the algae myself when adding the frags/clam to the tank?

About parameter, I am trying to maintain all my parameters at stable level right now, and I do have intention to raise up my alkalinity to 8.5 or 9 dKh and phosphate 0.03 to 0.05 ppm slowly, to see if it promotes better growth and coloration on my sps. I do dose iron occasionally as I read it somewhere that iron may be depleted over time when you are growing chaeto.

I would love to post some photos and details including my whole setup, the test kits I am using, etc, here soon, will keep you guys posted. @drivingmecrazy I will reply some of your questions with the photos and details soon.

Thank you all, I really appreciated all the help from you all.

 

[Charles0420]

It seems that is just GHA, my personal advice would be to raise phosphates to 0.05 at least depending on your test kit. 0.01 could also be zero limiting the microbes in P that will affect the biological filter of your system allowing the algae to use the ammonium instead of the microbes.
Raising phosphorus and adding herbivores would help keeping it in check without using harsh methods.

I have tried to raise my phosphate by doing more feeding cautiously but with no success. Guess I will do even more feeding from now on. Thanks for your advice.

FYI, I do dose Tropic Marin Phos-Feed to provide particular phosphate to corals at the same time, and I understand that this product does not increase the phosphate level, but provide particular phosphate only targeted to coral's consumption if I remember correctly.
If you are interested on this product, here is the product link: https://www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com/phos-feed?lang=en

 

[Charles0420]

I thought it be best for all if I shared a link. I have stated from within my previous comment about using vibrant. If anyone decide to use it please be sure you know the risk and do your own research as previously stated multiple times.

I found a link and I'll share it. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/warning-use-vibrant-at-your-own-risk.894995/

I trust what Randy Holmes - Farley said. Its two years old but the article is found here.

Once again, I do not promote the chemical method but if you do so at least do the research on any chemical. Thank You.

I will give it a read when I have time, and I am aware of the risks of chemical method that I will take the responsibility myself if it ever goes wrong.

Thanks for sharing! Great to see a lively reef community happening here.

 

[Charles0420]

Sorry to keep you guys waiting, it has been a busy week for me.

Anyway, this is my 2 years WaterBox Marine X 110.4 tank (First year was a Fish Only Tank and slowly transitioning into a reef tank over a year) and I will list down the livestock, equipment, test kit and supplements below:

Livestock:
2 Common Clownfish
1 Blue Hippo Tang
1 White Tail Kole Tang
1 Lineatus Fairy Wrasse
1 Laboute's wrasse

1 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Banded Coral Shrimp
Quite a number of turbo snails
1 Small Giant Clam

1 Acropora tenuis
1 Birdsnest
1 Millepora
1 Bali Green Slimer

Equipment:
2 EcoTech Radion XR15 G5 Pro
1 Maxspect gyre XF330 dual pump
Reef Octopus Regal 200-S Protein Skimmer
Reef Octopus Lights/Algae Reactor (Chaeto is inside)
RowaCarbon (Activated Carbon) in a filter sock
No GFO
Running on 2 4" filter sock
Teco TK-1000 Aquarium Chiller
Maxspect Nano-Tech Bio-Block
Maxspect Nano-Tech Bio-Sphere

Test Kit:
Alkalinity, Magnesium, Calcium, Nitrate, pH - Salifert
Phosphate - Tropic Marin PO4 Pro Test Kit

Parameters (As of Oct 6, 2024):
Salinity: 1.025
Temperature: 25 - 26 degree Celsius (77 to 78.8 degree Fahrenheit)
pH: 8.15
Nitrate: 5 ppm
Phosphate: undetectable
Alkalinity: 8 dKH
Calcium: 405 ppm
Magnesium: 1245 ppm


Food:
Hikari Mysis Shrimp, Reef Nutrition TDO pellets, Hikari seaweed extreme

Supplement:
Tropic Marin All-For-Reef
Tropic Marin Phos-feed
Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt

Routine:
Since I do not have a dosing pump, I dose all-for-reef manually everyday to keep my parameters stable. I do also dose phos-feed as a supplement to my corals everyday. I usually feed pellets to my fish, and occasionally a cube of mysis shrimp. I do 10% water change every week with tropic marin pro reef salt.

Hope any of the info above helps, please let me know if you need more info, thanks!