Would ya look at it?

[Devisissy]

So before I put this whole tank in the trash what type of dinos are these. My $40 scope is a huge piece of garbage. So these are the best photos I could get. Sue me. They don't move. Some have the nuclei and some don't.

Also I have hair algae lots of it. Where there is hair algae the dinos appear to be out competed. But it is white. No color at all.

Hair algae. Hard to see the little hairs with my garbage scope but that's them.

So what dino demon am I fighting? Hints when I was dosing nitrates and phosphates I was winning the battle. The second I stopped it got bad quick.

 

[Devisissy]

Shameless bump.

 

[DDenny]

Looks like Prorocentrum from the pictures. Do you have a picture of the tank itself.

A Dinoflagellate Treatment Guide

As the title suggests, this is intended as a short guide on what to do when you suspect dinoflagellates are trying to overtake your system. It is an attempt to boil down the protocols discussed across 11,000 posts in this "Are you Tired" thread...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Devisissy]

Looks like Prorocentrum from the pictures. Do you have a picture of the tank itself.

A Dinoflagellate Treatment Guide

As the title suggests, this is intended as a short guide on what to do when you suspect dinoflagellates are trying to overtake your system. It is an attempt to boil down the protocols discussed across 11,000 posts in this "Are you Tired" thread...

www.reef2reef.com

These are under whites only. You can see the hair and pom pom algae in some of the photos.

 

[Devisissy]

I have diatoms on the way and more pods. I am planning on dosing nitrates and phosphates to a 10/1 ratio again. When I was doing that very good things were happening, the issue is I didn't continue. I am adding diatoms and silica to hopefully out compete. I am trading my pencil urchin for a pin for the hair, and I have 30 hermits on order as well for the hair. Skimmer is running very dry currently, changing the filter sock daily.

 

[TX_REEF]

not sure if the post title is an edbassmaster reference but I like it

 

[Devisissy]

not sure if the post title is an edbassmaster reference but I like it

It absolutely was.

 

[DDenny]

That stringy stuff looks like Osteoporosis more that Prorocentrum. If that is the Osteoporosis goes into the water column and a UV is the best option for it. 1 watt per 3g with low flow recirculating in the tank. The guide above will help tremendously.

 

[Devisissy]

I can not currently afford a UV that would be beneficial for this size tank. The UV I have is very small, but must agree with you now that I can see the photos online. So apparently I am going to be treating for a type I don't have? But I see there is indeed two types here. One had a very pronounced nuclei. I read the guide and I did do a black out for four days with zero effect on the tank. During that time I lost two new fish that were introduced into the tank a month before. So far the only thing that worked even a little was the nitrate and phosphate dosing. Maybe I can find a used UV or something. To plumb that in...it's going to be an issue.

Scratch that, I'm going to buy one and follow the rest of the recommended on the link above. Which I was already planning on.

 

[DDenny]

You can run some carbon to take toxins out of the water from the Dino’s. I’m currently fighting Amphidinium Dino’s with silicate dosing and I just reduced my light to mostly blue with only 5% white light.

 

[Devisissy]

You can run some carbon to take toxins out of the water from the Dino’s. I’m currently fighting Amphidinium Dino’s with silicate dosing and I just reduced my light to mostly blue with only 5% white light.

I bought the green killing machine at Petco. 25watts. Louder than my plumbing but it's what I can afford. I am running rox. Tried the lighting. Tried all blues with lowered percentage and even total black out. No effect. So I have the uv now. Dosing diatoms, silica, nitrates, and phosphates.

 

[DDenny]

Yes I have the 3w green killing machine not the best but will do in a pinch and is better than nothing I think. Just have the flow go slow though it so it has more light contact time with the Dino’s. If you dose Phyto and/or pods turn it off so you don’t kill them. Just keep an eye on nitrates and phosphates I try and keep mine at 100:1 ratio. So 10ppm NO3 and .1 PO4 more or less.

 

[Devisissy]

Yes I have the 3w green killing machine not the best but will do in a pinch and is better than nothing I think. Just have the flow go slow though it so it has more light contact time with the Dino’s. If you dose Phyto and/or pods turn it off so you don’t kill them. Just keep an eye on nitrates and phosphates I try and keep mine at 100:1 ratio. So 10ppm NO3 and .1 PO4 more or less.

I am dosing pods and phyto. What's the point of the uv if I can never use it? I do see that they suggest I turn it off for three hours after dosing diatoms and the bacteria. So that is what I will do. Pods will just have to live...

Edited to add this green machine killer thing comes with a pump that you can not control. And it's fully submersable. I think in another build I will probably plumb a real unit it.

 

[DDenny]

Yes just turn it off for 30 min to hour when you dose and turn it back on.

 

[Devisissy]

Yes just turn it off for 30 min to hour when you dose and turn it back on.

Bottles say 3 hours so I have the UV on a smart plug. It has been brought to my attention the red sauce probiotic might be counter intuitive. That I need the substrate sauce and yellow to raise nutrients. I'm going to stay the course with the red sauce using it once a week instead of daily. Massively dosing phyto and adding pods.