Your favorite Metal Halides for Acropora Growth and Coloration

[njreefkeeper]

100% true, simply plug and play that's it.

I've been thinking lately about using 4 ati true actinic bulbs on my aquaticlife hybrid fixture in conjunction with my radions to see if I can pull better colors on my acros. I currently have it configured with 2 blue plus and 2 actinic. It's a shame that the actinic t5s don't get much attention, it'd be interesting to see them in more applications.

If the acros truly utilize that wavelength to develop their colors I feel that amplifying that wavelength with more t5 tubes would allow for better coloration since the radions lack that near UV/UV spectrum.

There was a great video that Jake Adams did visiting Jason Fox’s farm. Jason kept saying that his t5 bulbs were actinics. Many people assumed he meant the ATI true actinics and wondering how the heck he was growing sticks with all actinics. He actually uses the Gieseman Actinic Blue Powerchrome; not a true actinic at all. It has a wide wavelength band between 400-510. Sort of like a Blue Plus but not quite. I’ve been itching to give it a try and may throw one or two into the mix on my next t5 swap out. Hard to argue with the colors Jason pulls on his SPS.

 

[Yanir34]

Don’t forget the operating cost increase or replacement cost you need to factor into MH long term. That along with the huge ballasts and the burn in time for new bulbs were the worst part for me, not to mention you get a binary on/off versus the ramp up and advanced control options you get from LEDs… and the heat necessitated so much cooling unless you wanted exposed reflectors or pendants

honestly once I made the switch from MH to LED I was so thrilled you couldn’t pay me to go back.

What is the "burn in time" for new bulbs ?

 

[Reefahholic]

Progress….reflectors will be here tomorrow. 8020 by Friday.

 

[Reefahholic]

What is the "burn in time" for new bulbs ?

@rtparty

 

[njreefkeeper]

What is the "burn in time" for new bulbs ?

General consensus is about 100 hours. I’ve always lifted the bulb/reflector higher a few inches for a month or so and I’ve never seen any issues.

If you don’t have the space to lift them higher for that time, you can always put some shade screen over them or cut back your photoperiod.

 

[A. grandis]

What is the "burn in time" for new bulbs ?

You don't need to worry about burn in time either for metal halides nor T5s, unless you have a dimmable ballast for T5s.

 

[X-37B]

All this halide talk gets me thinking about setting up my halide system again, lol.
If I was to setup a halide system today and had nothing to start with I would get an old pfo hood or similar and run this bulb on a dimmable ballast. I would then supplement with Orphek blue to get the color I want. The 400's only need to be on for 5-6 hrs.
This bulb is very bright white. I have the 600's.
I believe this bulb would give outstanding growth but just needs blue to balance it.
You could buy dozens of these bulbs right now.
Got to find a suitable tank now , lol.

USHIO 400W Super MH AMH-400/Opti-Blue Conversion Grow Lamp #22128-USH

Super MH High Output Wattage: 400W Color Temperature: 7000K PAR (MMOL/S): 480 Lamp Voltage: 80-110V Average Life: 12,000 hrs Burn Position: Universal Bulb Type: T15 Base: E39 MOL: 284 mm Diameter: 46 mm Ballast: HPS S51 Ignition Voltage: 4KV-5KV Warm Up Time: 3 minutes Re-Ignition Time: 10...

www.bulbstock.com

 

[rtparty]

Halides absolutely need to burn in for proper color. It’s between 50-100 hours. I just shorten my photo period for a couple weeks if needed

 

[A. grandis]

It will burn in while you use the bulb in the photoperiod. It is not necessary to burn in leaving it on for the 50-100 hours straight or whatever the number is for any brand.

 

[njreefkeeper]

It will burn in while you use the bulb in the photoperiod. It is not necessary to burn in leaving it on for the 50-100 hours straight or whatever the number is for any brand.

I don’t think @rtparty is suggesting anyone run the bulb for 50-100 hours outside the tank until it’s burned in. I think what he’s insinuating (which I agree with) is that new bulbs are much brighter for that amount of time so caution should be taken when adding new bulbs. I do this as well (for over twenty years). I’ve seen as much as a 15-20% jump in par with a new bulb. Many bulbs lose that initial intensity in a month or so (as per Sanjay’s tests) and then after 10 months to a year the spectrum shifts and they need to be changed. The Radium (especially) has very consistent par and output once it’s burned in and then around month eleven I see par plummet so that’s my usual swap out.

 

[A. grandis]

I don’t think @rtparty is suggesting anyone run the bulb for 50-100 hours outside the tank until it’s burned in. I think what he’s insinuating (which I agree with) is that new bulbs are much brighter for that amount of time so caution should be taken when adding new bulbs. I do this as well (for over twenty years). I’ve seen as much as a 15-20% jump in par with a new bulb. Many bulbs lose that initial intensity in a month or so (as per Sanjay’s tests) and then after 10 months to a year the spectrum shifts and they need to be changed. The Radium (especially) has very consistent par and output once it’s burned in and then around month eleven I see par plummet so that’s my usual swap out.

Yes, I know he is not suggesting... It's just that when people talk about "burn in time" they automatically think we need to leave it on for the 50 to 100 or whatever hours straight during the process before they actually run the bulb in the photoperiod. I'm just complementing his post. The dimmable T5 fixtures would most likely need to be on for 50 hours or so before the bulbs could be used in the photoperiod. I didn't do that for my dimmable either, but they say it's the best way.
So, there is of course the metal halide "burn in period", but it can be done throughout the normal use of the lamp during the normal daily photoperiod without any problem with the proper adaptation diminishing the hours.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Alright everything is unwrapped after weekend delayed shipping.

What are the brackets they provide ?

Progress….reflectors will be here tomorrow. 8020 by Friday.

 

[Hydrored]

Alright everything is unwrapped after weekend delayed shipping.

What are the brackets they provide ?

That’s if you want to mount 4 reefbrite strips instead of the 2

 

[SpSDrew]

Alright everything is unwrapped after weekend delayed shipping.

What are the brackets they provide ?

You’re going to love the 14k Hamilton. Very clean white bulb.

 

[jmichaelh7]

You’re going to love the 14k Hamilton. Very clean white bulb.

I can’t wait. The aquatic life t5 has been holding it down while these delayed shipping’s took place.

That’s if you want to mount 4 reefbrite strips instead of the 2

Thanks!

I seen someone retrofit the aquatic life hanging fixture cables . Any body?

 

[JCOLE]

All this halide talk gets me thinking about setting up my halide system again, lol.
If I was to setup a halide system today and had nothing to start with I would get an old pfo hood or similar and run this bulb on a dimmable ballast. I would then supplement with Orphek blue to get the color I want. The 400's only need to be on for 5-6 hrs.
This bulb is very bright white. I have the 600's.
I believe this bulb would give outstanding growth but just needs blue to balance it.
You could buy dozens of these bulbs right now.
Got to find a suitable tank now , lol.

USHIO 400W Super MH AMH-400/Opti-Blue Conversion Grow Lamp #22128-USH

Super MH High Output Wattage: 400W Color Temperature: 7000K PAR (MMOL/S): 480 Lamp Voltage: 80-110V Average Life: 12,000 hrs Burn Position: Universal Bulb Type: T15 Base: E39 MOL: 284 mm Diameter: 46 mm Ballast: HPS S51 Ignition Voltage: 4KV-5KV Warm Up Time: 3 minutes Re-Ignition Time: 10...

www.bulbstock.com

I knew it wouldn't be long! LOL. I see this bulb has a blue peak to it. Does it appear yellow or more white to the eye?

 

[Reefahholic]

They are certainly packaged well. Shout-out to whoever packaged these Tullio. 100%

 

[X-37B]

I knew it wouldn't be long! LOL. I see this bulb has a blue peak to it. Does it appear yellow or more white to the eye?

Very white. Here is the 600 on my 45 frag system.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Top picture: 250w 14k Hamilton 3 minutes first turning them on

I am Excited to see where this takes the growth from my previous setup…

I did have trouble balancing the fixtures because the wires tend to pull on them
Here the ballast were set to 150/175w so they look blue

 

[jmichaelh7]

Very white. Here is the 600 on my 45 frag system.

That’s White!