0 phosphates good or bad?

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dh350twin

dh350twin

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I have noticed a little green algae since keeping my nitrates at 5ppm. But still no readable phosphates
 

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I do have a question for anyone who wants to chime in. Should I keep O phosphates? I had O nitrates as well but have got them up to 5ppm with stump remover slowly over a two week period. Now I am concerned about the 0 phosphates and am considering adding flourish phos to get it up to 0.3 ppm
My tank is 300 gallon plus sps dominant. Was established for 2 years but had to move it and now it's only 1 month or so old. Original live rock was added to the sump for the bacteria and all new reef saver went in as I had an aiptasia outbreak. Everything is doing fine a few lost corals though. I have a large skimmer and dose 12ml of no pox daily two 7 in filter socks and carbon, dose brs cal,alk,mg all in good ranges.
Depends on what you're trying to do....
 

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Not sure what you mean? I'm trying to grow a successful sps reef tank, mixed with some zoas and acans in a less lit area of my tank. Looking for good growth and color.
If they are 0 and corals look bad, its not good. Of their 0 and corals look good then it's ok. For example, to many variable s in your question and tank. If everything stayed constant in your tank, and you could only manipulate po3 then you would be able to answer your question. Also, you can't rely on test kits. I've found that they all have diffrent opinions :) ... I'd advise to keep consistency when experimenting and you'll find out what's best for your tank.
 

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Not sure what you mean? I'm trying to grow a successful sps reef tank, mixed with some zoas and acans in a less lit area of my tank. Looking for good growth and color.

I have on both ends of the tank where my par is about 200 to 250+ growing some Blasto's and rock anemone's.
Got some SPS too but they not liking it as much due to the par #.
I've my Po4 around 0.05 as I tested today after two months, my No3 was a bit low at 1.5 ppm, not worried about it as I skipped some feedings due to a busy end of the week and weekend.
 

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If they are 0 and corals look bad, its not good. Of their 0 and corals look good then it's ok. For example, to many variable s in your question and tank. If everything stayed constant in your tank, and you could only manipulate po3 then you would be able to answer your question. Also, you can't rely on test kits. I've found that they all have diffrent opinions :) ... I'd advise to keep consistency when experimenting and you'll find out what's best for your tank.
They corals you're trying to grow need food to grow.
 
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If they are 0 and corals look bad, its not good. Of their 0 and corals look good then it's ok. For example, to many variable s in your question and tank. If everything stayed constant in your tank, and you could only manipulate po3 then you would be able to answer your question. Also, you can't rely on test kits. I've found that they all have diffrent opinions :) ... I'd advise to keep consistency when experimenting and you'll find out what's best for your tank.

I agree and consistency is what I strive for. A stable tank is a happy tank. However adding the nitrates has had a positive effect on the corals but algae has gotten worse. So I am tying to find the sweet spot with that once that is found, I will experiment a little with phosphates.
 

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So are you saying the phosphates are the food? Or just that I need to feed the corals? Which I do every other night with various coral food.
Feed the corals consistently and you will see a change around 15 days.... change your feeding amount in 25% if good or bad. More if looking better , less if looking bad . That will help you find the sweet spot........ but you don't have any fish.
 

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Unless you're running a TON of gfo or aluminum oxide it's very doubtful you're at a true 0. There's going to be some phosphates inside the 2 year old rock leaching out also. Sure your Hannah might tell you you're at 0, and it has been discussed earlier in this thread why.
 
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Unless you're running a TON of gfo or aluminum oxide it's very doubtful you're at a true 0. There's going to be some phosphates inside the 2 year old rock leaching out also. Sure your Hannah might tell you you're at 0, and it has been discussed earlier in this thread why.
I do not run any gfo only carbon dose. 20 ml a day
I am now sure you and others are correct about there must be some phosphates, just undetectable by any test I have used
 

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I do not run any gfo only carbon dose. 20 ml a day
I am now sure you and others are correct about there must be some phosphates, just undetectable by any test I have used
Corals need po3

Unless you're running a TON of gfo or aluminum oxide it's very doubtful you're at a true 0. There's going to be some phosphates inside the 2 year old rock leaching out also. Sure your Hannah might tell you you're at 0, and it has been discussed earlier in this thread why.

I do have a question for anyone who wants to chime in. Should I keep O phosphates? I had O nitrates as well but have got them up to 5ppm with stump remover slowly over a two week period. Now I am concerned about the 0 phosphates and am considering adding flourish phos to get it up to 0.3 ppm
My tank is 300 gallon plus sps dominant. Was established for 2 years but had to move it and now it's only 1 month or so old. Original live rock was added to the sump for the bacteria and all new reef saver went in as I had an aiptasia outbreak. Everything is doing fine a few lost corals though. I have a large skimmer and dose 12ml of no pox daily two 7 in filter socks and carbon, dose brs cal,alk,mg all in good ranges.
 

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Because when I don't carbon dose I get a lot of algae. I dose a small amount to keep the algae under control.
If you're growing lots of algae then you definitely have some nitrates and phosphates
 
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If you're growing lots of algae then you definitely have some nitrates and phosphates
I'm sure if I didn't carbon dose I would have detectable levels. However my original question was is it a good or bad thing not to have any detectable phosphates. I like to carbon dose to control algae and then dose nitrates to control the exact amount my corals like.
 

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I'm sure if I didn't carbon dose I would have detectable levels. However my original question was is it a good or bad thing not to have any detectable phosphates. I like to carbon dose to control algae and then dose nitrates to control the exact amount my corals like.
It would depend on your definition of "detectable levels". Sure it's ok to not be able to detect Po4 with a Hannah checker or other tests, because they aren't testing the total amount of phosphate in the system. However, a true 0 Po4 level would be very bad.
 

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