Say I would love to do the same thing Triton Method. I have clown fish harem tank 30 clown 12 Anemones . Here is what I have 180 gal tank a Synergy reef 58 gal sump. The return pump is MD-70RLT - 1536 GPH - Iwaki . My lights are hydra 52s. Have the dos 2 of them. The refugium light is Kessil H350 deep purple . What do I need to change if anything. Don't want to cut my sump . So I would buy the Trigger System but how many gals ?
BRS160 Update 4: Triton Method, here we come! | BRStv
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Craig Skinner
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Following this thread, should be very interesting!
I really like what BRS had done on this 160 tank, I bet it was hard for Ryan to tear it all down though!!
But how cool will it be to watch them implement the Triton system on this tank right before our eye's!
Looking forward to see how this works out, I suspect to the idea of not having to do any water changes at all ever!! We shall see though.
Craig...
I really like what BRS had done on this 160 tank, I bet it was hard for Ryan to tear it all down though!!
But how cool will it be to watch them implement the Triton system on this tank right before our eye's!
Looking forward to see how this works out, I suspect to the idea of not having to do any water changes at all ever!! We shall see though.
Craig...
Jerzyray
Active Member
Why do I love Looking at this ****?Great idea ... I'm really looking forward to the journey.
I'd love to go Triton, but I have no space for a fuge in the stand. So I'll have to install an external fuge that plumbed to the sump.
How big did you say the fuge needed to be? Was it 20%?
BTW, here's my sump as it looked yesterday. I currently use a lot of silicone tubing, since I have to move stuff around a lot for regular maintenance.
hey there, i was wondering if you can connect your dosing tube strait to the bottle on the core7?I started dosing Core7 about a week ago on my brand new reef... not much demand yet, of course... Looking forward to seeing BRS's 160 progress with Triton right along side of my 150g peninsula
Urbanknight
Active Member
Crud! Just when I thought I liked how my tank was operating, BRS gives me visions of grandeur! Reluctantly following!
SlvrZ
Active Member
i'm curious to hear how much you will be needing in terms of ML to keep the tank happy. i was doing basic math for my tank and it was kind of a shocker, but then again i dont know if i'll be using half the dosage since the core7 stuff is more potent?
This is so exciting I’m in the process of starting it on my system as well. I plumbed in a 20 gallon tank to be a refugium onto my system just for this. I am going to use the Kessil h380 as well thanks to BRS TV informing me about.
Keep up all the hard work BRS I literally owe all my knowledge about this hobby to all of your video!
Keep up all the hard work BRS I literally owe all my knowledge about this hobby to all of your video!
Rattzreef
Active Member
I'd be interested to see if the FMK can identify and adjust the flow through your skimmer via the manifold. Say if both had monitors attached to them with set flow rates on the apex.. that way if the skimmer kicked on an hour after feed mode ended and the DC return pump had reduced flow it would adjust automatically thorough the Apex.. there must be coding that can be written for it.. some to look into perhaps?
Greybeard
2500 Club Member
Not without modification... I drilled holes in the tops. BRS shows holes with a push fit bulkhead of some sort... mine is not so complex. Just a 1/4" hole, with a piece of RO/DI tubing. Works for me
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Not without modification... I drilled holes in the tops. BRS shows holes with a push fit bulkhead of some sort... mine is not so complex. Just a 1/4" hole, with a piece of RO/DI tubing. Works for me
The nice thing about using bulkheads and the rigid 1/4" tube is the suction end of the tube always stays put and exactly where you want it.
LobsterOfJustice
Valuable Member
It pains me to see a successful tank switching away from a method that produced results for experimental reasons, but I understand why you guys are doing it. My advice for everyone's personal tanks however, is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I just don't understand the obsession people have with reducing or eliminating water changes. It would be one thing if there was a simple solution - but installing extra tanks and plumbing (i.e. 20% fuge), more high powered lighting, expensive versions of basic 2-part supplements, paying for lab grade testing, then more supplements to correct those imbalances uncovered... I mean come on people, is this really easier than just changing 10% of your frickin' water once a month? My strategy, which has been "perfected" over the last few setups, is just to make water changes super easy. I have a 55g barrel plumbed into the system (these were readily available to me and I have the space, but certainly could use something smaller depending on the system). The barrel circulates system water through it (tee'd off return, similar to how an external fuge or frag tank would be plumbed) and when it's time to do a water change, I shut a ball valve on the inlet to isolate the barrel, open a ball valve on the bottom to drain the barrel, and then turn on the RODI to refill the barrel (float switch will shut off when full). Dump a bag of salt in, wait a few days, and then open the ball valve and the barrel is now once again circulating with the rest of the system. This is an extreme example of a significant infrastructure investment (although no more than a typical 20% system volume refugium...) up front to have almost zero headache/tasks during actual maintenance. You could certainly make water changes easier in other ways, like having a dedicated tee off your return pump which you can attach hose to for pumping water to drain, and/or simply placing your saltwater prep container above the sump so that once water is removed, you can open a ball valve and let gravity refill instead of lugging buckets...
As for the removal of the rollermat - is the idea here that the zeovit system fed the corals, so now you are hoping the additional detritus in the system will fill that gap? Is "no mechanical filtration" recommended for the Triton system? Although corals likely eat detritus if made available to them in the water column, I don't think it's a simple swap of removing your mechanical filtration to provide the same food type/quantity that zeovit did. Bacteria are orders of magnitude smaller than detritus particles. And the idea of draining a tank directly into a refugium makes me squirm - that sexy clean sump is going to have piles of detritus all over it.
I also understand the urge to use the Kessil H1200, but I worry that if the point of this experiment is to show results of using a refugium and Triton in a realistic hobbyist environment, this will always be an asterisk next to your results that you have to defend. Yeah it was successful, but you used a ridiculously overpowered crucial piece of equipment that now makes this system an outlier, not a typical approximation. (Side note - seriously, have you guys sold any H1200s? lol).
I just don't understand the obsession people have with reducing or eliminating water changes. It would be one thing if there was a simple solution - but installing extra tanks and plumbing (i.e. 20% fuge), more high powered lighting, expensive versions of basic 2-part supplements, paying for lab grade testing, then more supplements to correct those imbalances uncovered... I mean come on people, is this really easier than just changing 10% of your frickin' water once a month? My strategy, which has been "perfected" over the last few setups, is just to make water changes super easy. I have a 55g barrel plumbed into the system (these were readily available to me and I have the space, but certainly could use something smaller depending on the system). The barrel circulates system water through it (tee'd off return, similar to how an external fuge or frag tank would be plumbed) and when it's time to do a water change, I shut a ball valve on the inlet to isolate the barrel, open a ball valve on the bottom to drain the barrel, and then turn on the RODI to refill the barrel (float switch will shut off when full). Dump a bag of salt in, wait a few days, and then open the ball valve and the barrel is now once again circulating with the rest of the system. This is an extreme example of a significant infrastructure investment (although no more than a typical 20% system volume refugium...) up front to have almost zero headache/tasks during actual maintenance. You could certainly make water changes easier in other ways, like having a dedicated tee off your return pump which you can attach hose to for pumping water to drain, and/or simply placing your saltwater prep container above the sump so that once water is removed, you can open a ball valve and let gravity refill instead of lugging buckets...
As for the removal of the rollermat - is the idea here that the zeovit system fed the corals, so now you are hoping the additional detritus in the system will fill that gap? Is "no mechanical filtration" recommended for the Triton system? Although corals likely eat detritus if made available to them in the water column, I don't think it's a simple swap of removing your mechanical filtration to provide the same food type/quantity that zeovit did. Bacteria are orders of magnitude smaller than detritus particles. And the idea of draining a tank directly into a refugium makes me squirm - that sexy clean sump is going to have piles of detritus all over it.
I also understand the urge to use the Kessil H1200, but I worry that if the point of this experiment is to show results of using a refugium and Triton in a realistic hobbyist environment, this will always be an asterisk next to your results that you have to defend. Yeah it was successful, but you used a ridiculously overpowered crucial piece of equipment that now makes this system an outlier, not a typical approximation. (Side note - seriously, have you guys sold any H1200s? lol).
LobsterOfJustice
Valuable Member
Something I like about the Zeovit system as opposed to Triton is the focus on the corals instead of the numbers and testing. Zeovit has a bunch of additives but the way you're supposed to know what to add is by observing your tank, seeing what is lacking, and making a decision based on actual things that are happening. I worry that the Triton system promotes "chasing numbers" - i.e. adding supplements or other additives just because the results show something is "wrong" - but the tank is otherwise fine. I really think this system is over-complicating things for people just getting into the hobby.
I don't like the term "chasing numbers" because the first thing we ask for when something is wrong is a for a full list of tank parameters. I wouldn't wait until I look sick to take a multi vitamin. It seems to me that if it is worth testing for, it is worth correcting even if you don't see any immediate effect of the bad numbers. If your numbers don't match nsw and nothing looks wrong, I wouldn't say it is a bad thing to go ahead and adjust the numbers anyway. It prevents something that looks like just numbers today from becoming a real world problem tomorrow. So I really don't see "number chasing" as an undesirable behavior as some people try and make it seem. Just don't kill your animals just to obtain a number.
Chasing numbers isn't about marking corrections or not. It's about keeping parameters in range and stable. Rather than trying to reach a "perfect" number at the expense of stability.
For instance if my NO3 was 15ppm, viewed it as too high and wanted 3ppm. Then I would make a bunch of changes all at once in a attempt to reach 3ppm. That's chasing a number.
I can have a goal of 3ppm yet be patience, make one adjustment, and evaluate it after some time. Although I am "chasing" 3ppm from 15ppm I realize that 15ppm probably isn't as detrimental to my system as would be making many drastic changes all at once.
I think we use the term "charring numbers" to help folks see that making adjustments isn't an emergency in a specific case, patience is key.
We should not make adjustments to reach a perfect number but to improve a number. So "chasing numbers" is probably a poor phrase but it's use and meaning are valued.
Maybe we should say: chase improvement, not perfection.
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