Cycling an Aquarium

[MikeCRK]

Day 4 of tank. Live sand, live water, dry rock. I am supposed to receive Red Sea tests tomorrow to see what are the levels right now. Then test it each week. I am planning to introduce snails (turbos) week 3-4 (depending on tests) and now the question. Did I miss anything?

 

[brandon429]

did you put in bottle bac, and feed for the bacteria and where do you get the water from, is it boxed water or pet store water

with those variables known your start date can be given now, without any testing. it will be ready by a predetermined date based on # of days underwater after we know those variables above, there's nothing your tests need to verify=new cycling science. you're about to waste money on a cycling test kit where you only need the nitrate factor, and that's not even for tracking the cycle, it's testless. the nitrate reading is for months from now when managing nitrate is appropriate. your ammonia and nitrite compliance dates will be stated after the variables above are stated

 

[brandon429]

Updated cycling science trends in 2023

This thread is intended to discuss current trends in reef tank cycling and to predict + track changes in reef tank cycling science compared to prior years of observation *Post any cycle challenge from any reef board on the internet for a quick alignment. cycles do not stall, starve or take 3...

www.reef2reef.com

= testless reef tank cycling. it's what we'd expect from evolution in reef tank cycling.

 

[MikeCRK]

did you put in bottle bac, and feed for the bacteria and where do you get the water from, is it boxed water or pet store water

with those variables known your start date can be given now, without any testing.

Water straight from the Atlantic (Celtic Sea) clean with no pollution used by many local keepers, taken at a high tide from the deep, no mud, far from settlements or river mouths. Rock and sand bed. Sand from the store, this one to be precise: Live Sand Bio-Active Live Aragonite White 4.5kg. No additives added. Approx. 250 ml water evaporated during these days (topped with DI/RO). Rock cleaned with the power wash only.

PS. the plan was not use tests, but some posters and other colleagues convinced me to check as it is my first salt one.

 

[brandon429]

that is the most enviable water on the site that I've seen in years, then

talk about diversity

the water is truly living water it is the aquatic version of live rock

one drop is uncountable microbial life forms

we have a reference thread where solely reef tank water from a running reef was placed in a 200 gallon tank and only dry rock, dry sand, no feed. only water constituents

and it cycled in 20 days, his bioload could be transferred in with that much delay time.

both feed and bacteria are found in that ocean water, planktors to degrade slowly over time as extended feed and carbon and nutrient, its perfection. don't spend money on bottle bac ever, lol.

Your water can't be slower than reef tank water its likely faster, but in a month's wait doing nothing else you're totally contact cycled. It can carry bioload in terms of a fish or two in decent dilution immediately, it's liquid live rock basically. this is a contact-time cycle not signified by peaks and troughs in ammonia. nitrite still would not factor at all in the cycle, or any cycle in this entire thread so far ~ by rule of timing set by a cycling chart, day ten is the ammonia action date, we have a good eye on how long it takes to contact cycle. thirty days is well overdone, thats why its safe to be testless. If i was in a reef court of law I'd say by day ten contact time you could do a water change, refill with -synthetic saltwater no inherent oceanic bac- and the bacteria from your water would be locked onto surfaces, the water change wouldn't strip off the locked-in bacteria on the rocks

you'd have a functioning cycle because ocean water and that much contact time filled the surface area. it's that powerful as cycling liquid.

in 30 days you can stock the tank without verification and begin reefing, 100% positive. you will be using this source for changewater am assuming, it gets bacterially refreshed every time, its the best water on this site. assuming you have a lot of rock for bacteria to grab onto, you're done at day 30 easily as full testless cycling due to Tuffloud's thread, a cycling chart, and all combined seneye readings for cycle combos using live material.

 

[MikeCRK]

Thank you very much for the reply!

My plan from the very beginning was to try not to use any additives and minimize any 'lab work' - same as I was doing in my freshwater tanks, learn and observe, planted tanks can tell you everything without need of using any tests. I got a bit puzzled when reading that I MUST use RO and make my own water, when this basically did not make any sense to me. Local keepers are using both, but even the lads who do their own water never said anything bad about the water from the sea. After all, the place where I took the water from is the site where in the summer can be basking sharks observed. It must be clean and full of life, various fishes are observed and invertebrates too

I chose live sand as kind of reassurance that there is enough bioload for start as the rock was dry. I was watching videos showing how corals are acting after the water change done with ocean water and that is amazing.

I am really happy you say that it should be closed so quickly - fingers crossed! As it is a debut, I will test the water to see what is happening in the tank with what levels of molecules, this should give me some lesson for the future how to identify the needs inside.

So I will get ordered the turbos for the third week (snails are hard to kill) and that will keep the potential plagues under control. Then if all good, week later or so (based on a test, just to be sure as snails could increase ammonia levels and the bacteria need to cope with it) I will start introducing zoas, clauvarias, mushrooms - nothing fancy.

Thank you once again for your reply and advice and mostly the reassurance that my plan which is quite counter to the general trends makes sense

Please have a look at my thread where I am using it as some sort of a diary - I have good memory but short Hoping this could help some other beginners as myself.

Nano Build - First 8.5G cube tank, ocean water, learning curve.

Hi Everyone! I am totally new to this forum, and totally new to marine tanks! I have some experience in freshwater tanks and now it is a time to check if I can use my knowledge and have some fun with salt water. The aim is to not spend a fortune, learn as much on my own and other mistakes and...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[brandon429]

Team


follow Mike's build, this cycle is now deemed done right now

no wait, no more testing needed, see his thread build for details. for visual benthic cue cycling details testless reef cycling details.

if this thread is just going to stay stickied forever by default we'll just turn it into an updated cycling science thread, even if updated cycling science thread have to earn their own upkeep to get as many views.

 

[hdmike444]

Hi all
I started my tank a week ago this past Sunday
Pic shows where I’m at now
I think everything is ok I used fritz turbo and fishless fuel
Does it seem like I’m at a good spot for timing? Anything I should be doing
2nd pic is about a week ago

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all
I started my tank a week ago this past Sunday
Pic shows where I’m at now
I think everything is ok I used fritz turbo and fishless fuel
Does it seem like I’m at a good spot for timing? Anything I should be doing
2nd pic is about a week ago

While these kits dont enthuse me due to known false readings, I urge you to Invest in the future in Hanna or salifert kits. In the mean time, take the liberty to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
When you see your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.

 

[hdmike444]

While these kits dont enthuse me due to known false readings, I urge you to Invest in the future in Hanna or salifert kits. In the mean time, take the liberty to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
When you see your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.

Thx
I am already looking at Hanna and purchased a ph already
Going to be ordering more soon, I’ll look in to sailefert as well

 

[Freenow54]

Hi all
I started my tank a week ago this past Sunday
Pic shows where I’m at now
I think everything is ok I used fritz turbo and fishless fuel
Does it seem like I’m at a good spot for timing? Anything I should be doing
2nd pic is about a week ago

Test kits aside( I used API but see the wisdom of Salifert except the cost. Reason is the syringe are better designed. They have a flat bottom on the plunger which makes a more accurate measurement. Looks to me since I had similar results. You are waiting for the second bacteria to grow

 

[hdmike444]

So last Friday I brought a sample to my lfs and they tested and told me my levels were great, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate under 20
they said I was ready for my first fish(clowns) which I brought home Friday. They also said don’t do a water change yet.Everything is going great, I did test today and nitrate is between 20 and 50 on the Red Sea test kit( still haven’t ordered the Hanna or Dali feet, but will today)
anything I should be concerned with. Fish seem great and are active and eating very well.
should I consider a partial water change? Or leave as is

 

[vetteguy53081]

So last Friday I brought a sample to my lfs and they tested and told me my levels were great, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate under 20
they said I was ready for my first fish(clowns) which I brought home Friday. They also said don’t do a water change yet.Everything is going great, I did test today and nitrate is between 20 and 50 on the Red Sea test kit( still haven’t ordered the Hanna or Dali feet, but will today)
anything I should be concerned with. Fish seem great and are active and eating very well.
should I consider a partial water change? Or leave as is

Partial water change wont hurt. I suspect they used a certain brand kit known for false readings and definitely trust your Red Sea Results

 

[Rmckoy]

Typically after the cycle is complete you should get higher nitrate levels.
a larger percentage water change to lower the level was old practice . Ideally anywhere between 5-10 ppm ok

but even a 50% water change can only lower nitrates 50% of the tested value .

funny no one mentioned or suggested quarantine procedures for adding new fish

 

[hdmike444]

Ok is it ok to wait a few days on a water change? And I asked the lfs about quarantine but he said not necessary

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok is it ok to wait a few days on a water change? And I asked the lfs about quarantine but he said not necessary

Can you wait yes as long as water tests do Not indicated any elevated levels.

 

[hdmike444]

Can you wait yes as long as water tests do Not indicated any elevated levels.

Only the nitrates at around 30-35 as a guess since it’s between 20 and 50

 

[Rmckoy]

Only the nitrates at around 30-35 as a guess since it’s between 20 and 50

30-35 is a little high and it could contribute to algae growth if left .
remember now that you have added fish they will only add to the nitrates over time .

 

[Soren]

Ok is it ok to wait a few days on a water change? And I asked the lfs about quarantine but he said not necessary

High nitrates are not an immediate concern as far as fish are concerned, even at significantly higher levels than you indicated. My old 75g "Fish-Only With Live Rock" tank ran successfully at 150+ ppm nitrates. Elevated nitrates will lead to algae growth, though, so you will need a long-term method for handling the nitrates from continual ammonia reduction from the fish and food decomposition. Water changes are one method.

The LFS is technically correct that quarantine is not "necessary", but I consider that bad advice unless you know for certain and are willing to take the risk that your LFS has a rigorous quarantine process that is proven through many past customers satisfied with purchases. If you do not quarantine, it is likely only a matter of time until disease is introduced into your tank unless you have a well-established years-old full reef ecosystem that naturally remedies the disease risks.

Some diseases are very difficult to eradicate from a reef tank, so it is best to try to prevent the introduction in the first place.

 

[hdmike444]

Should I consider adding cheto to my sump at this point in my aquarium?
Ammonia is 0-.25 (api test, sea hem on the way)nitrates are 0 and nitrates are 50