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If it is above the normal level of the ATO container it won't siphon.If I placed a ATO discharge above normal water level it will never siphon.
Fantastic, this should work great for you then.My ATO will be discharging into the back of a jbj nano. My tank is above my ATO Reservoir
I said discharge not Syphon. The check valve placed in the direction of flow, to the tank not back to the reservoir.If it is above the normal level of the ATO container it won't siphon.
A check valve won't let it function. Are you sure you aren't thinking of a back siphon?
You could also find someting to put a container INTO.
https://www.google.com/search?q=cra...lU-H57BFDD8JldklOFSoSCfNzcSxc9pggEaXlmXBKJ6tL
This. Had a super ugly 5 gallon bucket. Went to target with the wife to find something to put it into and found a nice basket. It's blue and white chevron and It hides the bucket well and adds some color to next to the brown stand.
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. The water has to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is typically called the reservoir. I have seen at least one system that doesn't use a pump but instead relies on valves opening to do the water add via gravity.Does anyone make an ATO that doesn't need a reservoir? Float switch in the tank, or magnets, or something that connects to a 12v NC solenoid valve?
Or do snails make beeline for such things and flood houses?
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. The water has to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is typically called the reservoir. I have seen at least one system that doesn't use a pump but instead relies on valves opening to do the water add via gravity.
I think I understand what you are looking to do. You could look at using something along these lines.I have a line run up from my RO/DI already with a manual valve that I use to top off. I'm wondering if someone makes a sensor that would tell a small solenoid valve that's inline with the RO/DI line to turn on and off.
I have a line run up from my RO/DI already with a manual valve that I use to top off. I'm wondering if someone makes a sensor that would tell a small solenoid valve that's inline with the RO/DI line to turn on and off.
I would have thought it is more common to have the RODI system tied into an intermediate ATO tank. Much less cycling on the RODI system this way and an extra safety buffer. Most systems I have seen actually have 2 storage units between the RODI filters and the DT's. The RODI unit fills a large container. The large container is used to supply the salt water container and the ATO container. The ATO container fills the DT.I top off 6 times a day, and it's tied direct to the RO system. I don't see spikes of tds on startup. I have a total of 9 stages to my RO system, including two RO membranes and three canisters of DI resin. My solenoid valve is a very high quality ASCO Red Had model that's used in industrial applications. It is normally closed, so if it fails, it will be closed. If it leaks, it feeds into my sump. If water gets too high in the sump, it drains into the house sump pump and is pumped outside. If salinity drops too low, my return pump turns off so that it isn't possible to continue to dilute the display water further. I also have alarms sent to my cell phone. I've pretty well covered all the bases. There are a lot more people that do this than you may realize. I have talked to a few guys that travel for work and have their tank 100% automated. I think they don't post about their system being direct to the RO unit, because they don't want to have to address these issues every time. Personally, in several years of doing this, I have had not one single failure that was not my own fault..leaving a valve open, switch on, etc. It can be done safely, but most people don't take the time to do it. For me, it was much easier than it would be to top off manually 6 times a day.