Diatom filter for treating external parasites?

Harold Green

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Cold along the texas coast is anything below 50degrees F. Just finished a week of hundred plus every day. Fortunately I have two ac units and one just went down this morning. Now I'm waiting on a new coil to replace the old one.
 

Paul B

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I think that is somewhere near the Great Lakes but where ever it is, I have no need to be there.
It is 93 here now and that is better than below zero. I am going boating and will just lay in the 69 degree water tonight.
 

moulton1853

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We had a record low last year of average of 17 in February with above average now fall of 78 inches last year and the almanac says this year could be worse. Can't wait to retire and move south.
 

soubhik

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this can be a stupid question as i am a newbie please bare with me, isn't uv filters are supposed to do the same thing ? zapping all things that came in contact with the light ? i am just asking this as you all are saying maintaining a de filter is PITA, then why not use uv filters with appropriately rated uv lights which can kill those parasites .....
 

Paul B

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UV and diatom filters are very different things. A UV filter removes nothing but it may kill some organisms. A diatom filter only removes tiny particles. It is a mechanical filter.
 

soubhik

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Thanks for the clarification Paul B , mechanical filtration part I forgot but here we are discussing about treating external parasites aren't we ? can't that be done with uv also ?
 
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Humblefish

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Thanks for the clarification Paul B , mechanical filtration part I forgot but here we are discussing about treating external parasites aren't we ? can't that be done with uv also ?

As @robert said above, the difference is the flow rate. Water needs to be run thru a UV slowly so the lamp has time to zap whatever it comes in contact with. Some free swimming parasites will come into contact with a fish before they get sucked out by the UV. So while a UV probably does help keep the number of free swimmers down, it's unlikely to ever eradicate all of them. Now if (BIG IF) a diatom is capable of 100% eradication it is because of the increased flow rate, being able to siphon out more free swimmers at a faster rate. In theory, this could work one of two ways:
  1. When free swimmers get released from encysted tomonts, they all get sucked out before they can attach to any fish. This would be optimal, but also probably somewhat unrealistic. At least some will probably attach to a fish before being siphoned out.
  2. On the "first pass" the diatom gets most of the free swimmers, but not all. However, each time the parasite encysts and releases free swimmers they are fewer & fewer in number. So it eventually gets them all out. The diatom may not 100% win the first battle or two, but it ultimately wins the war as the free swimmers' numbers dwindle. Even if a DE is not capable of 100% eradication, it is one heck of a disease management tool. Of that, I have no doubt.
 

reefwiser

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Bill
it was always pitched as a help for I know back in the day. I always used it for cleaning the tank and if needed in my hospital system then I put it to use.
For some reason new hobbyists have not been introduced to the wonders of a diatom filter.
 
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Humblefish

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For some reason new hobbyists have not been introduced to the wonders of a diatom filter.

Probably because of the work involved maintaining/cleaning/recharging it. That, and there's no app you can download to operate/monitor it from your phone. ;)
 

Paul B

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Thanks for the clarification Paul B , mechanical filtration part I forgot but here we are discussing about treating external parasites aren't we ? can't that be done with uv also ?

Probably because of the work involved maintaining/cleaning/recharging it. That, and there's no app you can download to operate/monitor it from your phone. ;)

A UV filter IMO is almost useless to destroy parasites. I could be wrong as I am guessing, I do know that amphipods and new born brine shrimp can go through a UV unit and just come out with a nice tan and maybe a bikini line. A diatom filter removes anything that goes through it, if you have enough powder in the thing.
It is also true that setting up a diatom filter is a little work. It is not a plug in and leave sort of thing but once it is running, you can go out and have a nice glass of merlot.
 

svogun

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So I am very late in the game but loved this thread. I used to use the vortex on my Discus tanks and loved them. Because of the poor design for saltwater. I never thought to use them in a reef setting so I went out and bought a Nu clear cannister filter that has a micron filter. I have it hooked up to a mag 12 in my sump for my 93 cube (60 gallons of water in a 100 gallon rubbermaid stock tank) . Charged it in a 5 gallon bucket with about a cup and a half of DE powder, No poweder running around the tank . All is well. I have known ich in my tank so will keep you guys posted. Currently battling with a powder brown with Crypto
 

robert

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So I am very late in the game but loved this thread. I used to use the vortex on my Discus tanks and loved them. Because of the poor design for saltwater. I never thought to use them in a reef setting so I went out and bought a Nu clear cannister filter that has a micron filter. I have it hooked up to a mag 12 in my sump for my 93 cube (60 gallons of water in a 100 gallon rubbermaid stock tank) . Charged it in a 5 gallon bucket with about a cup and a half of DE powder, No poweder running around the tank . All is well. I have known ich in my tank so will keep you guys posted. Currently battling with a powder brown with Crypto

Hi @svogun. I'm glad you mentioned the nuclear filter - I've not used it - but it is basically the same design of the DIY I put together from an old oddyssea canister filter.

I usually try to hang these directly on the tank rather than the sump - but on the sump will work provided you have enough flow through the tank. Also - if Ich or velvet is severe at the moment - watch were the fish are sleeping and direct spare powerheads (or other sources of flow) directly into those spots. This will help diminish the severity of the outbreak by keeping the fish out of theheaviest infestations.

A couple of questions for you-
Which model of Nuclear are you running?
Is it the 25 micron filter?
What is the pump rated for in GPH (I can check - you said Mag12)?
What is the fow through the tank? Most important!
Types and numbers of fish with and without ich?
Can you post pics? A video clip would be awsome...

I expect you'll go for up to a week before you'll have to recharge - maybe less - but keep it running for 2 weeks - possibly three and you should be over the "crisis" and the fishes immunity will take over.

Good luck - please keep us posted.
 
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Paul B

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Couldn't live without at least one.

 

svogun

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Hi @svogun. I'm glad you mentioned the nuclear filter - I've not used it - but it is basically the same design of the DIY I put together from an old oddyssea canister filter.

I usually try to hang these directly on the tank rather than the sump - but on the sump will work provided you have enough flow through the tank. Also - if Ich or velvet is severe at the moment - watch were the fish are sleeping and direct spare powerheads (or other sources of flow) directly into those spots. This will help diminish the severity of the outbreak by keeping the fish out of theheaviest infestations.

A couple of questions for you-
Which model of Nuclear are you running? I'm running the 533 which is the 25 micron
Is it the 25 micron filter?
What is the pump rated for in GPH (I can check - you said Mag12)? 1200 GPH
How big is the tank? DT is 93 gallons with a rubbermaid 100 gallon sump filled with about 60 gallons. Also have a 20 gallon long fuge that goes directly into the sump. Running a reef octupus 160 skimmer, and do an autowaterchange with Apex DOS of about a gallon per day.
Types and numbers of fish with and without ich? The only fish with ich is the Powder Brown. I have an african flameback, one orange diamond goby, a foxface, and a yellow assessor basslet.
Can you post pics? A video clip would be awsome... I'll see what I can do when I get home.

I expect you'll go for up to a week before you'll have to recharge - maybe less - but keep it running for 2 weeks - possibly three and you should be over the "crisis" and the fishes immunity will take over.

Good luck - please keep us posted.
 

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