DIY Fish Room

[Cr4zy]

Hey all, newbie to forums, kept aquariums for 20+ years.

Im currently having 2 aquariums built, dimensions are 6x2x2 approx 600 litres I believe, not sure in gallons sorry. I've done some research regarding stands in the past and built a few but they all have centre braces, I've since built what is pictured, the stand is going to hold both aquariums and have a small room behind it for filtration etc (centre braces are not an option). Effectively im looking for some clarification that the stand is going to be strong enough to hold the weight of aquariums once full and scaped.

Stand Dimensions:

Length - 80"
Width - 24"
Height - 49.5"

Top Rail - 2x8
Front and Back Supports - 2x4
Side Supports and Bottom Rail - 2x6

I suppose my main question would be, is the 2x4 going to be ok? I cant use anything bigger due to space requirements getting past aswell as having the 6ft opening below. The stand will also be bolted to the concrete wall where is meets in the picture.

Also, what would be the best thing to wrap the room in? Plasterboard? MDF? Ply?

The room is only around 4ft x 7ft, is there any concern for humidity and evaporation? Should I use a small extractor fan to help?

Any other ideas or help would be appreciated.

TIA

 

[lapin]

I would add 2 cross pieces under the middle to avoid any sag. Blocking they call it. I like fiberglass reinforced plastic sheets for room wrap.
Yes the room is going to be humid. Some sort of vent fan will help a lot.

 

[Cr4zy]

I would add 2 cross pieces under the middle to avoid any sag. Blocking they call it. I like fiberglass reinforced plastic sheets for room wrap.
Yes the room is going to be humid. Some sort of vent fan will help a lot.

Thanks for the reply lapin, when you say under the middle, do you mean completely across the underside of the top frame?

Regarding humidity would a normal extractor fan do the trick? Im going to replace the light for a bathroom light in the room aswell just to be on the safer side.

 

[lapin]

Thanks for the reply lapin, when you say under the middle, do you mean completely across the underside of the top frame?

The short way is what I would do . Like the bottom on the floor.

Regarding humidity would a normal extractor fan do the trick? Im going to replace the light for a bathroom light in the room aswell just to be on the safer side.

I have a bathroom fan/ light combo. Anything to help move the air out of the room.

 

[Cr4zy]

The short way is what I would do . Like the bottom on the floor.


I have a bathroom fan/ light combo. Anything to help move the air out of the room.

Oh, im with you, the top frame is identical to the bottom frame, the boards are just on top cos I needed a temporary work bench. Do you think the frame will be ok?

Ill look into the bathroom fan/light combo thanks.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I think what he's suggesting is the span across the top might deflect more than allowed when weight is applied.

Ideally you want less than 1/8" deflection in the center, and that's determined by some formula.

You should check out my build thread, I tackled many of the same issues. I ended up getting a glue laminate for my 8 foot long tank so that I can have it completely open in the back and have 1/16" deflection.

I also ran wire to multiple locations so that I could have patch plates in various locations for my apex. I also took advantage of the bare studs to run 1/4" water line in various locations so that there are long runs of waterline going from my rodi station to the tank.

As lapin suggested, while it was still down to the studs, I plumbed in an exhaust fan that runs off a humidity sensor.

Lots of fun, I envy you!

 

[Cr4zy]

Thanks for replies guys, there appreciated.

I've noticed a slight bow in the 2x8 on the top rail at the back, the very centre bows by approx. 4-6mm. im now concerned as I've never had a stand have a bowed top. Im now looking for options, if im told the stand will take the weight and ply and polystyrene ceiling tiles over the top will take care of it then great. If I need to replace the top rail then such is life, I would rather be sure and get as many opinions as possible.

I didn't notice any bow in the wood when I built it, I did check.

 

[Sirlagzalott]

Personally, I would add 2x4 vertical supports in the middle to combat sag. Will make getting a sump in and out an issue but piece of mind. In my old build, I had a 2 piece sump made to get around the middle support. It was connected by a giant bulkhead.

 

[Cr4zy]

Personally, I would add 2x4 vertical supports in the middle to combat sag. Will make getting a sump in and out an issue but piece of mind. In my old build, I had a 2 piece sump made to get around the middle support. It was connected by a giant bulkhead.

Sadly a centre brace isn't an option for this build as the bottom opening with be housing a 6ft aquarium identical to the top. 1 for marine and 1 for freshwater.

Im thinking about perhaps doubling up on the front and back rails, any ideas if that would solve the issue?

 

[Sirlagzalott]

Sadly a centre brace isn't an option for this build as the bottom opening with be housing a 6ft aquarium identical to the top. 1 for marine and 1 for freshwater.

Im thinking about perhaps doubling up on the front and back rails, any ideas if that would

Worst case is you could add a center brace after the bottom tank is installed. Granted though, it would be in there for good. I think doubling up on rails is a good idea. Structurally, might be overkill but in a high humidity environment, sagging is always a concern. Will the top tank be a glass or acrylic? The reason I ask is that I believe glass tank will also add a little more rigidity.

 

[esquare]

I know there are formulas for these things and, IMO, that would be your best bet so your not guessing. I tried to do a quick search for an online span/deflection calculator but, unfortunately, I'm not even exactly sure what I'm looking for span, deflection or something else. I will eventually need to research a similar subject to see how much weight my floor can hold for a bigger tank so I'm hoping you find a calculator and post it.

My Guess is at least double up the horizontal 2x6 and sandwich 3/4 plywood in the middle (glued and screwed) which would give you a DIY laminated board.

 

[esquare]

Worst case is you could add a center brace after the bottom tank is installed. Granted though, it would be in there for good. I think doubling up on rails is a good idea. Structurally, might be overkill but in a high humidity environment, sagging is always a concern. Will the top tank be a glass or acrylic? The reason I ask is that I believe glass tank will also add a little more rigidity.

I'm sorry, as I always say, if you're going to kill something, Overkill it!

 

[redfishbluefish]

@RocketEngineer was the guy who calculated the "original" dimensional lumber stand, so if he replies, he's your guy. If I remember his original posts, at six feet long, 2x6 top frame is fine, with no center support. All other members, 2x4's are fine. Here's the pic from his original post:

 

[Cr4zy]

Worst case is you could add a center brace after the bottom tank is installed. Granted though, it would be in there for good. I think doubling up on rails is a good idea. Structurally, might be overkill but in a high humidity environment, sagging is always a concern. Will the top tank be a glass or acrylic? The reason I ask is that I believe glass tank will also add a little more rigidity.

The tanks are being made from 10mm glass with standard bracing from what the invoice states. The only way I would be able to add a centre brace at the rear would be to double up the rails as the stand is made for the dimensions of the tank.

I know there are formulas for these things and, IMO, that would be your best bet so your not guessing. I tried to do a quick search for an online span/deflection calculator but, unfortunately, I'm not even exactly sure what I'm looking for span, deflection or something else. I will eventually need to research a similar subject to see how much weight my floor can hold for a bigger tank so I'm hoping you find a calculator and post it.

My Guess is at least double up the horizontal 2x6 and sandwich 3/4 plywood in the middle (glued and screwed) which would give you a DIY laminated board.

Stands I've built in the past have always had a centre brace so I've never had to worry, but this 1 is a little different.

If I come across 1 I will let you know.

@RocketEngineer was the guy who calculated the "original" dimensional lumber stand, so if he replies, he's your guy. If I remember his original posts, at six feet long, 2x6 top frame is fine, with no center support. All other members, 2x4's are fine. Here's the pic from his original post:

Hopefully my stand should be good then

 

[RocketEngineer]

A 2X8 for that specific application should be plenty. Which direction is the bow? If it’s too much, you could shave it down to get it closer to true without loosing any strength.

 

[Cr4zy]

It bowing on the red pieces on the design above. The top frame rail bows approx. 4-6mm at the centre across the longest length (80") of 2x8.

 

[Sirlagzalott]

It bowing on the red pieces on the design above. The top frame rail bows approx. 4-6mm at the centre across the longest length (80") of 2x8.

Is it bowing (upward) or sagging (downward)?

Just a thought. Depending on which, maybe flip it so it so it’s upward and then plane it level.

 

[Cr4zy]

A 2X8 for that specific application should be plenty. Which direction is the bow? If it’s too much, you could shave it down to get it closer to true without loosing any strength.

Not sure why it didn't tag your reply.

It bowing on the red pieces on the design above. The top frame rail bows approx. 4-6mm at the centre across the longest length (80") of 2x8.

 

[Cr4zy]

Is it bowing (upward) or sagging (downward)?

Just a thought. Depending on which, maybe flip it so it so it’s upward and then plane it level.

Its sagging, I have been thinking about unscrewing the top frame and flipping it to be honest.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Its sagging, I have been thinking about unscrewing the top frame and flipping it to be honest.

If that’s the case, flipping then makes it easier to get straight.