First time I have found clown eggs.

[HankstankXXL750]

I agree with your suppositions, and while you want to address the cyano, you will have to work around it. For phosphate, you can add to sump, Chemipure blue or elite which will gradually bring it down or even rowaphos.
Fir water change, to avoid getting water too low for eggs, first add seawater, then remove. Add more, then again remove- this way level will stay up to level while performing exchanges

Guessing that I won’t do water change until hatching night or after as other than the appearance I’m not having any problems.
What is your recommendation on setting up the fry tank, should I do it now or when it happens? I have a clean fresh 20 gallon tank, a 6” air stone and pump, or I can run two separate smaller stones at different flows in each end of the tank, but wondering if I should start it now to be safe.
also seen where people only fill the tank about 1/2 way, would you do that or fill it mostly full?
I think more water volume lessens the impact of ammonia etc but is there a reason they run them low?

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

The DT has a cyan issue. I was planning on a cleaning the next day but found the eggs. Wondering if it is better to wait or do it now. Nitrates are fairly low around 6 but my phosphates in that tank and my other predator tank are over the moon. Max out the Hanna tester when I use 2ml tank water and 8ml fresh made.
One issue with a water change is I might get the water below the eggs, and think that is probably a bad idea. However should I pull some water from the DT and start up the fry tank now, or wait until hatch night.
I’ve read both using all DT water or 1/2 and 1/2. Any recommendation?

thanks.
Kent

Exposing the eggs to air is probably not a great idea, so - like vetteguy53081 suggested - doing a little at a time to ensure the eggs stay below the water if possible would likely be wise.

I would generally recommend having the fry/rearing tank setup before the hatch just to be safe/to ensure you have everything ready in case any unexpected issues come up. I'm not sure which would be better with the water (or if it even matters), but I'd err toward the side of using the tank water - if it's good enough for the parents to breed in, it's probably good enough for the larvae to develop in.

also seen where people only fill the tank about 1/2 way, would you do that or fill it mostly full?
I think more water volume lessens the impact of ammonia etc but is there a reason they run them low?

Personally, I'd fill it full, but I'm not sure why people would run them low - so hopefully someone who knows why will chime in for you here.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Guessing that I won’t do water change until hatching night or after as other than the appearance I’m not having any problems.
What is your recommendation on setting up the fry tank, should I do it now or when it happens? I have a clean fresh 20 gallon tank, a 6” air stone and pump, or I can run two separate smaller stones at different flows in each end of the tank, but wondering if I should start it now to be safe.
also seen where people only fill the tank about 1/2 way, would you do that or fill it mostly full?
I think more water volume lessens the impact of ammonia etc but is there a reason they run them low?

Forgot to mention on cyano,,,,,having the lights off as much as you can will help with reduction.
For separate tank,,,, allow the eggs to be undisturbed and hatch normally. Again, you can prepare a different tank for the next clutch and water level at 3/4" is satisfactory.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Forgot to mention on cyano,,,,,having the lights off as much as you can will help with reduction.
For separate tank,,,, allow the eggs to be undisturbed and hatch normally. Again, you can prepare a different tank for the next clutch and water level at 3/4" is satisfactory.

Hard to get a focused picture as the clowns get in the way and change the focus, but here are what the eggs look like tonight.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hard to get a focused picture as the clowns get in the way and change the focus, but here are what the eggs look like tonight.

Theyre on track

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Theyre on track

Any guess as to how long? Just started the rotifers today. Supposed to leave them alone for three days. Hoping not to harvest any yet.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Any guess as to how long? Just started the rotifers today. Supposed to leave them alone for three days. Hoping not to harvest any yet.

My eggs hatch between 7 and 11 days, you are getting close

 

[HankstankXXL750]

My eggs hatch between 7 and 11 days, you are getting close

I can see their little eyes but the eggs are still a muted grey. I have read they turn more silver on hatching day as they become transparent. I first discovered them on Saturday but maybe they were there before, but not for much.
Have my fry tank running. Curious if I need to black out three sides (I think I read that somewhere) and do I run a light on the tank and if so dim, moderate or more.
have one air stone running about twice the flow of the other. And only added just under 10 gallons as I read the less water the more dense the rotifers will be.
would you run a seachem ammonia alert badge in the fry tank, and/or test daily? After the Fry are in this, do I do water changes with DT water or fresh mixed?

The family is super excited to see how this goes. But we are also aware it might not go very well.

Thanks

 

[vetteguy53081]

I can see their little eyes but the eggs are still a muted grey. I have read they turn more silver on hatching day as they become transparent. I first discovered them on Saturday but maybe they were there before, but not for much.
Have my fry tank running. Curious if I need to black out three sides (I think I read that somewhere) and do I run a light on the tank and if so dim, moderate or more.
have one air stone running about twice the flow of the other. And only added just under 10 gallons as I read the less water the more dense the rotifers will be.
would you run a seachem ammonia alert badge in the fry tank, and/or test daily? After the Fry are in this, do I do water changes with DT water or fresh mixed?

The family is super excited to see how this goes. But we are also aware it might not go very well.

Thanks

Id test daily as I dont trust badge and not worth risking the fry.
Silver and wiggling is correct . Light to be dim a fry and food source will gather near the light at times. A sponge filter can be very beneficial also

 

[vetteguy53081]

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Id test daily as I dont trust badge and not worth risking the fry.
Silver and wiggling is correct . Light to be dim a fry and food source will gather near the light at times. A sponge filter can be very beneficial also

How soon on the sponge filter, as what I read was no filter so they don’t get sucked up. I haven’t seen them in forever but had ones for QT tanks years ago that are air driven. Are they ok to start right away?

 

[vetteguy53081]

How soon on the sponge filter, as what I read was no filter so they don’t get sucked up. I haven’t seen them in forever but had ones for QT tanks years ago that are air driven. Are they ok to start right away?

I cant see how a sponge filter would accomplish that why it is used in lieu of power filter

 

[HankstankXXL750]

I cant see how a sponge filter would accomplish that why it is used in lieu of power filter

The ones I had back in the 80’s and 90’s had a coarser sponge, not knowing how strong of swimmers the little guys are if it sucks up detritus I would think it could suck up them.
However if you use them from day one I will as well. You have always been quick with your help for my questions and I believe your advise has always been sound.
I can get this one at Petsmart, the only pet store in 50 miles, so I’ll pick one up tomorrow.
Do you or @ISpeakForTheSeas culture phyto? If so would culturing my own be good for feeding the rotifers, or should I stick with the RGcomplete that reef nutrition recommended. I’m planning to start a culture anyway as it is just too expensive to buy and have shipped. Bought a gallon once from a guy on here and loved it and think it did great things for my reefs, but then it ran out when it was sub zero around here and I was afraid to have more shipped.

 

[vetteguy53081]

The ones I had back in the 80’s and 90’s had a coarser sponge, not knowing how strong of swimmers the little guys are if it sucks up detritus I would think it could suck up them.
However if you use them from day one I will as well. You have always been quick with your help for my questions and I believe your advise has always been sound.
I can get this one at Petsmart, the only pet store in 50 miles, so I’ll pick one up tomorrow.
Do you or @ISpeakForTheSeas culture phyto? If so would culturing my own be good for feeding the rotifers, or should I stick with the RGcomplete that reef nutrition recommended. I’m planning to start a culture anyway as it is just too expensive to buy and have shipped. Bought a gallon once from a guy on here and loved it and think it did great things for my reefs, but then it ran out when it was sub zero around here and I was afraid to have more shipped.

I buy phyto as as I have the time, just not the will power. I get it locally cheap enough.

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

Do you or @ISpeakForTheSeas culture phyto? If so would culturing my own be good for feeding the rotifers, or should I stick with the RGcomplete that reef nutrition recommended. I’m planning to start a culture anyway as it is just too expensive to buy and have shipped.

I'm not currently culturing any (no tank at the moment), but I plan to in the future. Culturing your own would work fine the rotifers (rotifers aren't picky about the kind of phyto used; they've been cultured on Nannochloris sp., Rhodomonas sp., Tetraselmis sp., Isochryris sp., Chlorella sp., and Nannochloropsis sp.).

 

[HankstankXXL750]

I buy phyto as as I have the time, just not the will power. I get it locally cheap enough.

I’m 130 some miles from the closest real fish store and another 50 to the good ones. And they don’t culture just sell bottled. Get real pricy if I want to dose all of my tanks.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

I'm not currently culturing any (no tank at the moment), but I plan to in the future. Culturing your own would work fine the rotifers (rotifers aren't picky about the kind of phyto used; they've been cultured on Nannochloris sp., Rhodomonas sp., Tetraselmis sp., Isochryris sp., Chlorella sp., and Nannochloropsis sp.).

Thanks.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Massive emergency, I’m in town at 5:00 and my wife calls that there is stuff bursting out of the egg location! I speed home (fortunately no ticket) as she collects a bucket and siphon hose! I’m thinking they are supposed to hatch at night!

Never mind false alarm. When I got in there was maybe some detritus or something floating in the water but egg still intact and where they belong.

But even better was my rotifers culture was getting a little foamy, so I fed again hoping this meant they were alive. Drew some out in a syringe and put in a Hanna vial and viola we gots rotifers.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

@vetteguy53081 and @ISpeakForTheSeas ok so I’m probably overthinking but wondering if I can change my lighting schedule or wether it will adversely effect the hatch. I run all of my tanks in a really late schedule so we can enjoy them in the evenings. That being said my tank doesn’t go full dark until early morning. Would like to shift to dark by 9 PM so I don’t have to be up so late to collect. Any thoughts.
Here is my schedule.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

I would run same schedule just move the times. Or should I drop the trailing blues as maybe they will hatch during that dim time frame. Wanting to be able to watch them nightly from here out but not have to be up from 4-7 AM.