- Joined
- Nov 24, 2018
- Messages
- 176
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- 378
Hi All,
I've inherited a 320w 16,000K Razor from a mate, it's sans PSU and power cord as it was damaged in a fire caused by a faulty power strip (a tale for another time) and was wondering if anyone else has played about much with these?
It was FOC as the insurance classified it "fire damaged" and my mate was just going to bin it, so rather waste an otherwise undamaged fixture I figured I'd try turn it into something useful. It's too long for my 3ft tank so I'm planning on adjusting it to suit. I could easily cut it in half and run it with 3 pucks like a 160W (the 320w is essentially just 2 160's joined together) and keep the rest for spares but I'm unsure how well the 160w would cover the 3ft? He was running it on a 48"x24"x24" and it looked really good so I'm thinking 4 pucks (same as 2x 120w) would offer better coverage and allow the light to be run at lower power.
The power side is easily figured out but I was wondering if anyone has any experience with hacking the control side of it? Given the factory controller is an Atmega 168P based device and the drivers use an LM3409 chip I'm assuming they're PWM controlled. So in theory the factory controller could be replaced with something like a Reef-Pi.
I've inherited a 320w 16,000K Razor from a mate, it's sans PSU and power cord as it was damaged in a fire caused by a faulty power strip (a tale for another time) and was wondering if anyone else has played about much with these?
It was FOC as the insurance classified it "fire damaged" and my mate was just going to bin it, so rather waste an otherwise undamaged fixture I figured I'd try turn it into something useful. It's too long for my 3ft tank so I'm planning on adjusting it to suit. I could easily cut it in half and run it with 3 pucks like a 160W (the 320w is essentially just 2 160's joined together) and keep the rest for spares but I'm unsure how well the 160w would cover the 3ft? He was running it on a 48"x24"x24" and it looked really good so I'm thinking 4 pucks (same as 2x 120w) would offer better coverage and allow the light to be run at lower power.
The power side is easily figured out but I was wondering if anyone has any experience with hacking the control side of it? Given the factory controller is an Atmega 168P based device and the drivers use an LM3409 chip I'm assuming they're PWM controlled. So in theory the factory controller could be replaced with something like a Reef-Pi.