Hydra 52 settings including AIP files

arafas

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Any luck with files, I got one for the HD'S I will upload later as I'm on my phone right now and unable to do so. But here's a screen shot for now.
3c81ff945fe7ea02c6de1b9ad528abfa.jpg
Can you send me the api file for this please, I am using 26hd. [email protected]
 

arafas

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4 months of grow

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I am using 26hd. Do I have to run it more intense settings. Since I think you are using 52hd. I know 52's have more PAR from my understanding. I am using them 10 inch above water 90 gal
 

jboone82590

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Let's get some results! What profiles are working for people and which ines aren't?
I have the saxby settings on my tank.

That pic was a cheap green frag from a LFS and look at the color with just running the saxby setting only about a month.
c83febea230c9bf370bd869b15433e34.jpg
 

arafas

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I have the saxby settings on my tank.

That pic was a cheap green frag from a LFS and look at the color with just running the saxby setting only about a month.
c83febea230c9bf370bd869b15433e34.jpg
Are you running his settings at full blast and which one are you using high or low file. And how deep is your tank and placement above water level? Thanks
 

OREGONIC

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BRS just released their rendition of the AB+ settings for AI lights in a video today. Curious to see if anyone has been using these settings or similar settings, if so thoughts?



IMG_2135.PNG
 

jordimex

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BRS just released their rendition of the AB+ settings for AI lights in a video today. Curious to see if anyone has been using these settings or similar settings, if so thoughts?



IMG_2135.PNG

just set it up like that with a month of acclimation i have 2 hydra 26 hd on my red sea reefer 250
if i am doing something wrong someone please let me know!!!
 

OREGONIC

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just set it up like that with a month of acclimation i have 2 hydra 26 hd on my red sea reefer 250
if i am doing something wrong someone please let me know!!!

Im tempted to make the switch. I dont have much sps as of yet but i think im finally ready to add some acro. So far the only sps i have is a red monti cap, a purple and green stylophora, and a hollywood stunner, all look healthy with current settings but the stylo and monti are not growing very fast. The hollywood stunner grows like a weed tho. I tried some acro about 6 months ago but killed both pieces, I believe attempting to run gfo knocked my nutrients way out of whack as my pho dropped really fast from .5 to 0. I have since installed an ats and do not run any other form of nutrient export except for a skimmer. Nutrients have stablized at nitrates 2-5 and pho .02-.04. The last thing i want to get right before attempting acros again i want to make sure my lighting is on point and all other corals are adapted to the new lighting if i change from current settings. I tested the brs ab+ for a few minutes to see if there was much of a visual difference from my current settings, and it was noticeable but not super far off. Im just afraid the spectrum change is more noticeable to coral then the eye and dont want to risk shocking my other corals that are doing great. My euphyllia splits like crazy under current settings and the colors on them are great.

IMG_2119.PNG
 

Fudsey

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They are all different and you'll have to load them to see the difference. Unfortunately there is no way to look at the program without loading it first. I believe I am using #4 but right now my AI 26 HDs are on a FOWLR tank while my new tank is being set up. I can't remember which one exactly but it is the lower setting one I am running as fish don't need the high settings for them. The ups and downs of the lights is supposed to simulate clouds.

On BRS's new video on the AI they show some recommendations for settings on the Prime but it should be the same for the Hydra's. Watch the video posted above.
 

Fudsey

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I have tweaked mine to be more like what BRS is talking about in their video following the AB+ method. Although I have not tested par as I do not have a Par meter to test it. I would love to hear some thoughts on this setup. and as of right now this is on a new setup with nothing in the tank so I have nothing to even gauge this on.

Tell me what you think. If you are interested I can share this as well.

settings1.jpg


settings2.jpg


These are setup for 2 Hydra 26HDs on a 90G tank so I set the numbers a little higher on the UV and Blue channels to get deeper into the 24" depth of the tank.

Here's a pic of the tank at the time posted above to see. I did make the whites a little brighter to make the tank easier on the eyes but will have to reevaluate once something is in the tank.

Day24Cycle.jpg
 

Jamie Allbritton

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Im tempted to make the switch. I dont have much sps as of yet but i think im finally ready to add some acro. So far the only sps i have is a red monti cap, a purple and green stylophora, and a hollywood stunner, all look healthy with current settings but the stylo and monti are not growing very fast. The hollywood stunner grows like a weed tho. I tried some acro about 6 months ago but killed both pieces, I believe attempting to run gfo knocked my nutrients way out of whack as my pho dropped really fast from .5 to 0. I have since installed an ats and do not run any other form of nutrient export except for a skimmer. Nutrients have stablized at nitrates 2-5 and pho .02-.04. The last thing i want to get right before attempting acros again i want to make sure my lighting is on point and all other corals are adapted to the new lighting if i change from current settings. I tested the brs ab+ for a few minutes to see if there was much of a visual difference from my current settings, and it was noticeable but not super far off. Im just afraid the spectrum change is more noticeable to coral then the eye and dont want to risk shocking my other corals that are doing great. My euphyllia splits like crazy under current settings and the colors on them are great.

IMG_2119.PNG
Can you email me this schedule? [email protected]
 

OREGONIC

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I ended up switching to the brs ab+ at 80% intensity with a minor tweek to the white red and green. Took a few days to get used to how blieish purple the tank looked but i do think the color of the decent sized torch i have, which is my center piece, colored up even more. Alot more gold pop to it and my gold hammer opened more too. My stylo and hollywood stunner both have colored up as well and started showing more growth within a few days. The plating monthi has changed from a darker red to a vibrant red. BTA's and flower nems seem happy with new setting aswell. Zoa/palys have no change for better or worse. My acan and trachyphyllia are not opening very much but i have always had issues keeping acans and the trachyphyllia has always been hit and miss since i have got my nutrients in check, it loved the tank when nitrates were 10+. Not to upset about acans and trachyphyllia not doing to well, starting to want to fill the tank with sps, euphyllia, flower nems and zoa/palys only.
IMG_2147.PNG
 

majorstare

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I'm slightly confused with the settings mentioned above and in the video.
I have a 2x2x2 cube, Hydra 52, 6" from water level and have set to the following....
UV 100%
VIOLET 100%
RED & GREEN 15%
WHITE 25%

SPS dominant tank.

Is this right?
 

Fudsey

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Looks like that's what they are saying as well as blues at 80%
 

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