Okay the strange thing is that the ich now seems to be spreading a bit. From 1 dot 2 days ago, now its 3 white dots. Im 100% sure my salinity is 1.008 - 1.009. I have 2 refractometers and i check it 2x a day. I dont exactly understand why the ich is able to spread even with the salinity at that level. Could i be dealing with a resistant strain?
Ich Discussion and treatment options.
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Steven Pro
Active Member
Chloroquine diphosphate is a proven treatment for Amyloodinium and some people have used it against Cryptocaryon with various levels of success. But, Brooklynella only responds to Formalin.
what kind of fish did you have ? was there any thing different going on those 2 or 3 times?
So what your saying is My first tank 6 months old, this ICH I think I ave, it will go away? I have been researching ALL day, getting VERY scared I might lose my 4 fish to it. I HAVE abolute Pristene water, in fact I finally got my Nitrates to below or at 5! Ammon-o ca 440-460 KH 9-10 Sal 1.024-1.025 LPS SPS And four fish. PLEASE tell me I will either be OK if I keep at it, or should I HYPO in a H/T...
btkrausen
Fish Hoarder
It won't just go away. You can live with it, but in order to abolish it, you'll need to either treat the fish with copper or hyposalinity. However, if you don't leave your tank empty for the 8-12 week period, you could be leaving ich in the tank, which will only infect the fish again.
I am sure it was stress related, probably shipping. They type of fish I couldn't say for sure, it was when i owned a retail store.
Even 8-12 week of any type of treatment will not guarantee that you get rid of it.
Fish will produce an antibody to fight the parasite. A mucus will surround the trophonts and immobilize them. Early theories suggested the fish produced the mucus while newer theories suggest the parasite produces the mucus as a defense mechanism against the antibodies. When the immunity system of the fish becomes compromised the ability of the fish to produce antibodies (or mucus depending n which theory is correct) may also be compromised and release the trophonts resulting in an outbreak. A recent study also showed that trophants could remain dormant as long as 6 months and possibly longer
florida reef
Well-Known Member
Good thread!
well I will be keeping an Eye on it. I will set up a Hosp. tank just in case. and a QT (I know I should have had one from the start). it is not the NEW fish, so I am wondering what caused it, I don't remember him being stressed, but noticed the rubbing before any little spots. (which there are a couple on his tail) my water is fantastic parameter wise so we shall see. He is eating, not as much but eating anyway...
Great thread!!
Great thread!!
Hey Guys... I keep a large barebottom system 325 gallon display with another 120 or so in sumps. It has a heavy sps load and the following fish. Emperator, Majestic, Regal, Golden flake, and Golden angel. In addition there is a Copperband, and the tangs, Kole, powder blue, yellow, purple, and sailfin. Most of the fish were added to this system 5 years ago when the display was constructed. However when i first introduced the fish I placed several new tangs into the system. Although most of the stuff was transfered into this display from another system I had a mini cycle. I also had a severe out break of ICH. All of the fish listed above except the regal and golden were present then but I lost a small new tang .I introduced Ozone injection into my large dual downdraft skimmer. I noticed that each cycle of ich was less intence on the fish the day after i introduced it. After about a week I had an accident and the ozone generator drew in salt water. During the week it took me to purchase and ship a new one I saw the ich outbreaks increase again. When I recieved a new generator the ich began to decrease and after 6 months or so my fish were perfect. No spots ever. This was about 4.5 years ago. In November a friend had an ich out break in his tank. He lost most of his fish. After the ich "went away" he bought some new fish. All of them looked "clean". Right after Christmas he decided to take the Regal Angel back to the shop. I have been looking for a Regal for a long time. I purchased the fish and introduced it into my main display. It fattened up and is eating well. However, last Weds. I saw 4 big old swollen ich spots on my powder blue and big old postule on the side of my emperator. The Regal was covered with the powdered snow we all dread to see. I dug out the ozone and put it on line. My skimmer is smaller now so i was a lil concerned as the flow isnt the same as the old dual downdraft i used to run. Friday the sailfin was pwdered but the powder blue droped the original 4 but had thee new ones. By Sunday most of the fish looked clean. Today there is no ich to be seen in the tank. This is the third time that I have seen ich disappear in this tank with in two weeks of applying ozone. After 6 months or so, I will take it back off line. Everyone tells me that Ozone cant work. I was never able to keep powder blues and koles long term before i used ozone. Now I have two of these fish that have been infected and cured twice after applying ozone. Based on the life cycle info given in the first post, i dont think i am in in the clear yet. However, at this point I am not too concerned about loosing any fish to this outbreak. if i ever learn how to post pics I will attach some but here is a vid of the tank if you are interested. Now if i could just eliminate the micro bubles from my closed loop i would be a happy camper. Acroppra, angelfish, butterfly fish, Tallahassee - YouTube
osteopth
Community Member
I keep reading about how there are three treatments for ich, but mostly copper and hypo are used. Why aren't people using the transfer method? I have been using it with my new Achilles Tang for the past week. What a wonderful experience. I mix up new water, match temp and salinity, and aerate it for 12-24 hours. Then I use a clear container to transfer the fish to the new tank with as little water as possible while trying to avoid the bottom of the tank. No stress. No evidence of Ich. Then I break down the first container, wash everything and let it dry for a day. The fish gets transferred every 2-3 days based on my schedule. I'm using prime to manage ammonia which is working well. One of my containers is a 29 gallon tank, but the other is a Rubbermaid container (Clear type). With smaller fish you could use 5 gallon buckets. There is no way that this is more stressful on my fish than copper or hypo. My fish get brand new water every 2-3 days. I did treat with PraziPro Saturday and I'll repeat that in 5 days. I'll continue transferring for another week then put them in my QT to watch them, but from what I've read and understand of the life cycle of Ich, my fish are likely Ich free already. Everybody who does it this way seems to love it, why doesn't everybody use this method to keep ich out of our tanks?!?!?!?!?
Just an update, I saw three spots on my Powder Blue today. They were gone before lights out. Most of the fish havent shown any signs since I applied the ozone to my skimmer. Much smaller skimmer doesnt seem to be as effective as my old dual downdraft but the Kole tang has stayed clean after the first day and the Powder blue shows no more than three or four spots every couple of days. Every one says that ozone doesnt "cant " work. I have applied it three times now to a system with a Powder blue, and Kole tang. Each time the fish have recovered or this last time improved. Based on the response so far, I feel sure this time the recovery will continue. Granted these fish are well fed and in a healthy system but, in the past I have never had a Powder Blue or Kole Tang live through an ich investation in a reef tank. Now I have seen it three times after applying ozone. Whether it works or not, I know when i see Ich i break out the ozone imediately. My frinds here locally dont, and they loose fish when their tank has Ich show activity. I dont understand it.
osteopth
Community Member
Just to update. It's been another 6 weeks since I last posted and absolutely no signs of Ich on my Achilles Tang during QT or in the DT for 2 weeks (even though I stressed the bejesus out of him going from QT to DT). I'll never put another fish in my system without using the transfer/bucket method. 
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I'm battling a bout of sickness with my new powder blue tang right now. He is in the dt due to too small a qt for him (10g) as he's 6" in size. Deciding what to do about it. Prazipro in the main tank???? IDK if I can? I've heard a a few yes and a no to that. I have a mixed reef, mostly frags and the usual inverts as well as 7 chromis, yellow tang, CB angel and 2 tank raised osc. clowns. This is my 3rd and last attempt to keep one and he was a beautiful specimen at the lfs. He eats like a pig and doesn't scratch but won't let the cleaner wrasse pick from him. I have a black rubbermaid trash can that I use strictly for new saltwater mixing (no old water ever goes in here) . Should I just remove all my fish and place them in this 30g can and treat with copper? My DT is pristine and finally through initial cycling. I am hoping I catch this before eggs fall from the fish. The PBT is showing only light dusting on his fins and body at this time and I began to notice it yesterday. What are your thoughts?
Tetra1
Active Member
I use the product by Kordon Ich Attack for all of my Ich outbreaks. It is organic and safe for all fish, invertebrates, and coral, at least that is what the product states. I personally have had no issue with using this product and would recommend this for Ich. I have had no adverse effects from this product and everything in my tank wound up being healthy and happy. In addition, I did not do any water changes other than topping off my tank as needed. I did have to use this product for a couple of weeks for it to actually kick in, but, everything cleared right up. I am sure this is just one opinion of many, but, I thought I would post it for what's it worth. Good Luck.
Stinger
Active Member
OK, so i came home from a business trip after being gone 3 days while the wife watched the tank. Noticed my Sailfin Tang has white ich spots over her. So its time to treat her in the QT tank. But the QT tank needs a 50 per cent water change first. It is a 30 gallon QT tank , I am running 2 hang on the back carbon filter systems . one is a dual carbon the other is a single. i just removed the filters, got to go to pet store tomorrow after work and get some copper treatment. any suggestions as to what procedures i need to take. My new 160 gallon dt is running a salinity of 1.025, should i use the same salinity in the QT tank ? or lower it to 1.020 and drip acclimate the tang? and do i need to remove my clowns and goby and cardinal and treat them all.
all other fish at this time look clear
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kevinf
lalalala
so.. I don't know if my firefish has ich or not. I purchased the fish from a reputable shop that I've gotten all my fish from. My wrasse has bullying the firefish since I put it in the tank on Sunday. It appears to have white dots, but it's flush/flat with the body(looks like its part of the fishes skin). Could that be ich? It's eating fine, just stressed because of the wrasse.
TrialandError
Well-Known Member
My fish came down with ich in my DT several weeks ago. All the spots are gone and have been for 2 weeks or so. My midas blenny on ocassion will itch. They eat fine are super active and coloration is normal. Should I try and catch them and put them in QT or just leave them and not stress them out?
ambrosiozoa
Community Member
my tank had an outbreak several months ago and all the fish that survived have never shown any signs again. but any new fish seems to be infected within a few days
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